Power to Manual Brakes - D150

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How much per hour are you working for when you change an intake manifold?..
much cheaper than a garage would do it for.... 2 hours at a garage is about 200 bucks. Yeah, I can pay myself 100 bucks an hour, and get it "right" by my standards :)
 
I guess it's just a me thing I already admitted I like fabricating....
Something about making my cars and trucks with as much of my hands as possible...
 
I guess it's just a me thing I already admitted I like fabricating....
Something about making my cars and trucks with as much of my hands as possible...
I get it... I do too on what i like to do. Just sometimes it makes sense to buy
 
I'm sorry I still just see a flat piece of metal with holes in it...
cool... and I'll work on other things and wait for it to come in the mail

:thumbsup:

"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should...." :)
 
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My 79 D100 was a manual everything truck. Manual brakes, manual steer, 3 on the tree. and as long as I kept those back brakes adjusted up I never had any issues with stopping. and I towed and hauled ALOT with that truck, I am sure I was deep in 3/4 ton territory with it several times. Manual brakes don't scare me.
 
As a matter of fact I just remembered where it was. It measures about 3 3/8 horizontally and 3 1/2 vertically on the bolt centers. just throwing a tape measure to it. nd the aluminum is about 1/2 thick. I still have the aluminum master cylinder with 15/16 bore also. I ran it for a short period of time when I had a 93' cab with stepside bed stroker big block. I had to ditch the power booster to clear the valve cover. I made this around the year 2000. i dont think you can buy them anywhere

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I have manual brakes on DT now.... thanks man!
 
On some mopars there is a different part number for the manual and power brake pedal because of different ratios of leverage. How about trucks?
 
On some mopars there is a different part number for the manual and power brake pedal because of different ratios of leverage. How about trucks?
I don't know. Others that have done this swap used the original brake pedal. I know on Dusters and stuff that I've swapped I've always used the original pedal.
 
I have a NOS factory manual to power brake retrofit kit, bought off the Pickup Truck forum below this one, and it shows instructions for both B100 (van) and D100 (pickup) and says in the paperwork that came with it, to order the P/B pedal from the parts counter to go along with this booster.
No, ain't for sale. I got it to replace the original booster in my 85 D150, as even Cardone and such are having such a hard time supplying boosters for these trucks.
Being that the instructions seem to pertain to "100" and not "150" or even 100/150 combined I'm guessing this was from before Dodge had a "150" designation.
One thing I notice different between this NOS booster I have and what's in the truck, is the hole in the pushrod to attach to the brake pedal isn't exactly in line with pushrod arm, but slightly offset so as to form a "P" at end of pushrod if what I'm saying makes sense. I have a used booster (unknown if it works) from an 87 that I got with a pile of other parts off of CL that the hole I mention, is centered about the pushrod.
The curves and configuration of the back side of the booster housing are slightly different as well.... looks more to match up with what one I have here from An F body looks like, not that such subtle differences would matter for actual fitment.
and I do remember reading somewhere back in the day that the same application with power brakes vs manual brakes, have different master cylinder bore sizes. I dont remember if this was from some old FSMs maybe some old parts catalogs, don't remember where.
 
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