pressure plate experts

-
For a STOCK pressure plate it looks like brewers,or sorce one from old salave yard & have it rebuilt. I think pheinox friction was another sorce. Ram was the only one that ended up making me a hybrid disc. No one else would do it. Its easy (now) to tell if the p.p. is correct. Just place the release bearing on to the fingers. It will eather sit on them pretty close to center or dam neer fall through.
 
Yeah, AutoZone heavy duty LOL. I just put a regular AutoZone heavy duty diaphragm clutch in the duster years ago when I was getting it going. It worked great four years at the Dragstrip taking my 318 car into the high 13's with slicks and everything. It wasn't until I had the new Stroker motor in the car and that took another year for the clutch to start slipping at the Dragstrip.
pbiggs said:
So....after reading this thread, can anybody tell me where to buy a 273 pressure plate that would be correct with first installation? I am having some issues with my clutch not completely disengaging (most notably when shifting to reverse).
Great reading...thanks FABO members
Click to expand...
 
pbiggs said:
So....after reading this thread, can anybody tell me where to buy a 273 pressure plate that would be correct with first installation? I am having some issues with my clutch not completely disengaging (most notably when shifting to reverse).
Great reading...thanks FABO members
Click to expand...


If you have the original you are better off to take it to a local friction supply shop. Most cities have at least one. They will disassemble the cover, clean it, surface the pressure ring, check, replace and set plate pressure and replace any parts that need it. If you have a handle on your tune up, you can have them change the plate pressure for you. If not, have them keep it at OE specs.

That is prob all your best bet. As I have written in other places, the diaphram pressure plate is much less expensive to build so the manufacturers are dropping other covers. Sad but true. And then nifty marketing makes the public cry for cheap junk.
 
I know this is an old thread but I’ve come to realize I have the exact same thing happening to my RAM clutch. The fingers are flying way past my .5” bearing to finger clearance and hitting anyway. It’s hurt the TO bearing after 100 Miles. I don’t want to go through a clutch shop and all of that. I’ll probably just send it back to Brewers and hopefully they can help.
 
Last edited:
Mopar92 said:
I know this is an old thread but I’ve come to realize I have the exact same thing happening to my RAM clutch. The fingers are flying way past my .5” bearing to finger clearance and hitting anyway. It’s hurt the TO bearing after 100 Miles. I don’t want to go through a clutch shop and all of that. I’ll probably just send it back to Brewers and hopefully they can help
Me on a diaphragm clutch and be done with it. Removed the OC spring on the pedal and call it a day.
Click to expand...
Go to AutoZone buy Heavy Duty clutch tomorrow put it in and call us back in 2 years lol
 
Mopar92 said:
I think I’m done with the Borg and Beck thing and I just got started with it.
Click to expand...
All my experiences has been with a diaphragm clutch. Guaranteed a borg and beck is way better.
I'm just a hobbyist so a diaphragm clutch is easy.
I drag race but just for fun.
 
I can’t put an Autozone clutch in it. I’ll pull it out and send it back to Brewers and let them look at it and see what’s wrong with it. They are good people and I’m sure we will get it going. I do think this thread was helpful. I wonder what let’s those fingers fly back. You’d think there would be a stop built in.
 
Last edited:
Mopar92 said:
I can’t put an Autozone clutch it it just yet. I am however heavily disappointed in this Ram clutch. I’ll pull it out and send it back to Brewers and let them look at it and see what’s wrong with it. They are good people and I’m sure we will get it going. I do think this thread was helpful. I wonder what let’s those fingers fly back. You’d think there would be a stop built in.
Click to expand...
If I were you I would quote yellow rose and getting him involved in this conversation as he knows more about those kinds of clutches. And yes Brewer's should take care of you.
 
yellow rose said:
If you have the original you are better off to take it to a local friction supply shop. Most cities have at least one. They will disassemble the cover, clean it, surface the pressure ring, check, replace and set plate pressure and replace any parts that need it. If you have a handle on your tune up, you can have them change the plate pressure for you. If not, have them keep it at OE specs.

That is prob all your best bet. As I have written in other places, the diaphram pressure plate is much less expensive to build so the manufacturers are dropping other covers. Sad but true. And then nifty marketing makes the public cry for cheap junk.
Click to expand...
Someone needs help..
 
Mopar92 said:
I can’t put an Autozone clutch in it. I’ll pull it out and send it back to Brewers and let them look at it and see what’s wrong with it. They are good people and I’m sure we will get it going. I do think this thread was helpful. I wonder what let’s those fingers fly back. You’d think there would be a stop built in.
Click to expand...

Have you tried calling Ram's Tech line about your pressure plate? Brewer is a retailer. You need to talk to the manufacture of the clutch...
 
Actually I did. They were all out of the office. That next day I got my email returned. I
Must say that RAM and their tech was quite efficient and very much interested to know what I have. We’ve since corresponded a few times. I provided them with very detailed measurements and description. I’m
Going to make an HD video of the issue and send it to them when I return home. He said that he will then CC the engineering department about it. They have also been provided links on sites about this exact clutch and the same issue I’m having. After days of googling while procrastinating pulling the trans and clutch.... I’ve found that this is fairly common. It really makes me
Want to buy a quality diaphragm clutch and completely and utterly remove any way that the fingers will fling back an inch out of the PP and contact the bearing. I hate pulling transmissions that much.
 
I'm interested in you problem and hopefully a known cause and solution to it.
I bought a stock replacement Ram #88766 B&B clutch from Summit last fall for my 340 Dart. I was only able to put about 150 miles before putting the car away for the winter. I did not notice any problems with it, but I have yet to put it under any real load.

100_4509.JPG


100_4508.JPG


100_4510.JPG


100_4513.JPG
 
Hard to see. How far are the fingers from the cover? In other words how far can the levers fling towards the rear of the car. If it can go wrong, it has on this build. Love the car, love my Mopars but damn. Maybe my bad luck has run out.
 
Just a coupla points. The tin cover is what stops the levers from moving back, but some rearward movement is nec to allow for disc wear. There is a weight welded to the outer ends of the lever, (see pic page 1), these weights take over to supplement the spring pressure using centrifugal force to add clamping pressure to the disc, that's prob why levers move with increased RPM after release. I used to make B&B clutches from the ones I broke. Notice the number of, and different color springs, diff apps different number of springs and colors. Your problem imho, its not assembled properly,. My $.02. cheers.
 
The question I have is, can the fingers move without plate movement?
In other words. Once the disc is clamped between the plate and the fly wheel the plate can't move and farther forward.
Is it possible for the fingers to move backwards at that point without any additional forward plate movement?
 
IMO
the cover is flexing or the marcel is too stiff.
EDIT
I mean mechanically speaking those are your only two options, right?

Well there is a third one but you already said the disc was correctly installed.
Which would be with the flat side toward the flywheel........... irregardless of how it may be marked......

And if the disc was in backwards, that would certainly cause the disc to behave like a Bellville Washer and "pop"
as would flywheel bolts with heads that are up too high...... The heads have to be below the machined surface, and no loc-washers here; the oem bolts are special low-profile.
 
Last edited:
IIRC . There is a jig shown with measurements of disc thickness relative to finger height. It is in the Mopar engine manual. My money is the three bolts need cranking down to reduce lever travel. Installed as is, it may not even achieve departure. .jmo, and was a long time ago.
 
694spd said:
The question I have is, can the fingers move without plate movement?
In other words. Once the disc is clamped between the plate and the fly wheel the plate can't move and farther forward.
Is it possible for the fingers to move backwards at that point without any additional forward plate movement?
Click to expand...
How far are your levers/fingers from
The cover? Should be .250” or so.
 
It doesn’t look like it... but it’s about 1/2” inside the cover. Which is about how much it’s allowing the fingers to come back. If you put 1/2” of TO bearing clearance, that leaves you 2” of total pedal travel in my car. Which won’t work.

579572EE-F4BC-4CBD-ABF6-1CCEFA0997F5.jpeg
 
It at least is painted. My Ram cover is bare....
Here is a angle shot.

100_4514.JPG
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top