**Pro Street Ladder Bars???**

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HemiDenny said:
I'm just askin...so please no bitchin' (unless you want the ol' lit bottlerocket under the $hithouse door)

Aren't you guys concerned about rippin those triangulated upper supports right out of your cars with the high HP forcast??

is it not....the uppers do all the pullin'.....the lowers just locate?
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"I ain't fallin' for no banana in the tailpipe" LOL

The load is somewhat spread out. I expressed the same concern to maddart. He is aware, hopefully he will reinforce the upper control arm attachment bar by his cage design and spread the force throughout the car. He really wants to keep the rear seat since its a family car and all. I have a friend with a stock suspension 5.0 mustang that runs low 8s with a procharger. He had the stock mounts and eventually it pulled the sheetmetal through the floor. One look at how flimsy the Fox body mustang floors were it blew me away that he had been racing that car for years without any reinforcement. A turbo is so much softer a hit than say... dropping the clutch on your 1000 HP Chevelle at 7600 rpm. That car has a stock crossmember in the frame and 2 bars coming from the cage (hoopbar) and it has yet to bend or crack anything. Its another 8 second car that 60's in the 1.20s on the rear tire. I have said it before and I will say it again. The setup that he has fabbed up looks like it will be strong enough. I would move the shock mount to the rear of the rearend housing and run it. It has a drag radial and its a turbo car, there will be a lot of restraint in how much boost that car will take.

It will take a lot of trial and error to get a 1000hp car to hook on drag radial and thats part of being a superhero.
 
USCG CHARGER said:
Mad why are your bottom bars not parallel with the deck? I was told that it's a good rule of thumb?
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The weight is not on the car in the pictures and it is also not at ride height. The engine and trans are out & the Torsion bars were still tight so the front end is sky high in the air. When I drop the car to ride height the lower bars ARE Parallel like they are supposed to be. The car sits real low at ride height.
 
The uppers are under tension, while the lowers are under compression...remember the rearend housing is trying to rotate. The upper mounts will be fine if the inner frame rails are plated properly. LOTS of fast cars doing it this way. It is definitely a good idea to tie your cage into that upper mount some how.
 
Same Camaro..... Looks like he blew thru the Rear Suspension "Leaf Springs" let go of the track, un Hooked and he messed up his car pretty good.....Seems like he could have got back in the throttle and straightened it out. When in Doubt Punch it!! That is the Sand Dunin Rule that applies just about with everything.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqDzbFwAHK0&feature=related"]PSCA Fontana Round 2 Accufab Outlaw Johnny Coleman VS Rick Snavley - YouTube[/ame]
 
I saw that too. Fontana is really not any better than the street in front of your house. A low 7 second leaf spring car is not going to be the most consistent car, thats why people put back half and four link their cars. :D Been there done that.
 
turbodart68 said:
I saw that too. Fontana is really not any better than the street in front of your house. A low 7 second leaf spring car is not going to be the most consistent car, thats why people put back half and four link their cars. :D Been there done that.
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That car hauls *** no doubt...

I think at this point I am going to keep the link I have and move the upper bars off the pumpkin and out to the frame rails like USSG did his uppers. This will allow me to move the Shocks to the rear of the axle instead of in front. I will also put some extra adjustment holes in the lower brackets at the Axle for more tuning capability along with buying or making some shock mounts with seven or eight adjustment holes so I can drop the car all the way down if I want to.

Like you keep telling me I need to get the NA thought process out of my head. Those 6 & 7 Second Turbo Cars leave the line like a Stop Light and then come on like a couple locamotive's after the 60' mark. The rear ends on most do not even get that much of a Hit & don't move or drop the rear of the car if any at all. I am amazed at how soft they come out of the hole at around 3500-4000rpm it seems. Some even alot less than that.
 
If I possed the HP you will have....
I would seek rear suspension advice from the Pro's
not the railbirds (no offense to the railbirds....but Louis has a lot on the line....so to speak)

BTW....I'm one of those railbirds.....hangin on the fence, watching the big boys go fast
 
As already posted you can make the suspension choices go fast, it just depends on how much you want to mess with it to get it there. Whichever way I end up going my buddy Pete will be there to dial it all in. This is what he does and he is a Pro that builds Full Chassis Race Cars. Mostly NA powered cars though. On another note he won the PSCA Title 4 years in a row with one of the cars he built. To date nobody else has done that.
 
Pardon for askin
did you ask Pete for his advice on installation of bracket and shock locations?
 
HemiDenny said:
Pardon for askin
did you ask Pete for his advice on installation of bracket and shock locations?
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On what install? As already posted he says Front or Rear shock location does not matter per his experience.

As far as his advice he says I should just back half the whole damn car and do a REAL 4 Link but again that is not this cars intended purpose or Theme. I want a car that looks just about all stock including the Interior/Console etc like a Hot Rod in the late 60's or 70's would look like with the steelie wheels, setting Low to the ground though, that can move some serious pavement.
When is the last time you seen a full bodied car with NO HOOD Scoop/Flat Hood & complete interior run in the 8's?? That is my goal here with this build.
 
Never....but I never saw a monkey fly either ....just say'n

I admire your goal and vision...please don' t take my BS seriously
 
Mad Dart said:
I am in the process of switching out my 8 3/4 Triangulated 4 Link for a Ford 9" with something that will Hook up in a Car Wash that can be used on the street without getting rid of the back seat.

My good friend has a buddy with a un equal length Triangulated 4 Link and about 800HP to the tires. He has messed with it for Days and can not get it to hook except for the first 20 Feet, it then gets Wheel Hop and Tire Chatter and there is absolutely no way to control it. When he had a different power plant with about 600HP to the tires it did fine. The extra ponies are just powering thru the unequal length 4 Link set up.

I should at some point have more power to the tires than he does and I don't want to start off with problems like this.

This Pro Street set up from Alston has Bushings and is supposed to be friendly for Street Use when using their Bushed Track Locator.



.......Back to your buddy's wheel hoop / tire chatter issue....

Tire shake is a function of the suspension moving with more force than the shocks are adjusted to "dampen". To make an adjustment, stiffin the rebound first, then stiffin the compression to help hold down the tire once it gets applied. The goal is to match the dampning values with the level of force/energy passing thru the shocks. Consider selecting shocks that are designed for higher horsepower applications...like the AFCO BG-Big Gun series Shocks.

When setting ride height, start with the shock shaft 1/2 way in/out. Fine tune from there. Be sure to guard against shocks bottoming out. If the installed height of the shock is to short, and the piston (on the end of the shock shaft) hits the base valve (at the bottom of the shock), and damage will result.

When choosing rear springs, it is suggested to err to the softer option. A softer spring rate will typically be more consistant over the range of starting line conditions.


Run that by ol' Pete...and see if he agrees...no charge!

I might be a little nutzzzz,.... but I'm just not another pretty face)
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One thing to remember the car I am talking about has a 300 Shot of NOS on it so it is VIOLENT out of the hole. I keep going with NA Thinking when I will be able to control the boost with my ECU out of the gate which should eliminate this problem. Plus he leaves the line at 6000RPM and Smacks it at the same time.......

Look back at the Video turbodart68 posted of that Mustang. It leaves the line so smooth it is ridiculous, after 60ft it takes off like a Rocket Ship...... Nice and smooth that is what Turbo Boost is all about. Not hard on Parts either because the power is Linear. I need not forget that as I go on with my build.

Here is the Video..... Really watch how the car reacts out of the gate. It acts like it is just crossing the street. After 60' Holy Cow does that thing come on.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL7R9jE73yM&feature=player_embedded"]Keith Bell Fastest Stock suspension Mustang in the country 7.41 197mph - YouTube[/ame]
 
Nitrous Launch...... Big Difference, only thing is that mustang would be passing that car up like it was standing still after the 60' mark.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDLBKoy3DCA"]TNT nitrous launch - YouTube[/ame]
 
which one would be more fun with your passenger gettin ready to take a swig of a Big Gulp?
 
HemiDenny said:
If I possed the HP you will have....
I would seek rear suspension advice from the Pro's
not the railbirds (no offense to the railbirds....but Louis has a lot on the line....so to speak)

BTW....I'm one of those railbirds.....hangin on the fence, watching the big boys go fast
Click to expand...

I prefer birds on a wire myself. Haha. I ran my turbo car with Super Stock springs and a pinion snubber and 10.5 M/T slicks and almost met my demise. Louis is much smarter than I am and probably wouldn't try the poo I was trying. I finally gave up and had Hansens race cars in Ca do my back half. With a little more knowledge and patience I would have had a low 8 second leaf spring car myself but I gave up. I originally told him that it would snowball into what it is today.

HemiDenny said:
.......Back to your buddy's wheel hoop / tire chatter issue....

Tire shake is a function of the suspension moving with more force than the shocks are adjusted to "dampen". To make an adjustment, stiffin the rebound first, then stiffin the compression to help hold down the tire once it gets applied. The goal is to match the dampning values with the level of force/energy passing thru the shocks. Consider selecting shocks that are designed for higher horsepower applications...like the AFCO BG-Big Gun series Shocks.

When setting ride height, start with the shock shaft 1/2 way in/out. Fine tune from there. Be sure to guard against shocks bottoming out. If the installed height of the shock is to short, and the piston (on the end of the shock shaft) hits the base valve (at the bottom of the shock), and damage will result.

When choosing rear springs, it is suggested to err to the softer option. A softer spring rate will typically be more consistant over the range of starting line conditions.


Run that by ol' Pete...and see if he agrees...no charge!

I might be a little nutzzzz,.... but I'm just not another pretty face)
Click to expand...

On a 4 link car wheel hop and tireshake are more attributed to instant center but is made worse by the wrong shock setting. Its also a matter of trying to hook too much with too little tire.

Did someone mention a big gulp? I hope Louis takes the most important advice and put a cup holder big enough for a super big gulp!!:D
 
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