Project 440DD

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So making progress. Welded in some braces that will let me cut the floor out. Once the floor is out, I’ll be ready to install the 440/T56 and start building my floor pans around it.

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so the working from home thing is allowing some minor progress. Makeshift parts hanger using #9 wire and my old hammock frame. kept the thing off the ground about 4 inches above the grass. Needs some touch ups this afternoon. Once dry, itll go in the car, probably Friday. along with the engine and trans for mock up


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I traded my original gerst without a sway back to Gerst for one with a sway but to save time and a little money I opted for a bare frame.
 
More progress. I still have to do some tweaking and final metal work to the floor pans plus give them a vinegar bath to get the winter surface rust off but it’s progress. and added a little of my own flair to the floor pans.


I also messed more with my crazy *** idea for the trunk lid

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More progress. I still have to do some tweaking and final metal work to the floor pans plus give them a vinegar bath to get the winter surface rust off but it’s progress. and added a little of my own flair to the floor pans.


I also messed more with my crazy *** idea for the trunk lid

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I like the trunk idea, very coronet ish!
 
Really wish I had an English wheel. Gonna have to go shopping for one I think
 
Baby steps. Took the advice of 72blunblu and set up and measured the length I’ll need my D60 to be cut too. And banged some more on my inner fender patch panel. Not near as curved as before but still needs work.

edit: pics to come, apparently it’s saying my pics are too large even though it’s the same size as yesterday’s pics.
 
so with the handy dandy tape measure, looks like I need to be 55 inches wide from back of the mounting flange to the back of the mounting flange on the other side. Using DrDiff's calculator and using the .25 rotor hub thickness spec, that gives me 54.5 inches before taking into account the brake gaps. Did i do this math right?

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Breaking down the dana 60 to send across town to cut down. Had some extra help today.

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With the wife’s honey to do list completed, managed to finish painting my suspension stuff. This will get blasted and powder coated once the shops local open up. That or I may send it to Phoenix at some point. It this should limit the surface rusting.

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So back on the dart again today. Got the K frame in the car, finally got the engine and transmission on. I do have to call Holley tomorrow, I ran the plugs that were blocking this block saver plate all the way out of the block and it still hits on the are where the rear expansion plugs are. I want to hear what they say before I grind on my block. In the mean time I mounted the bell without it, and got the transmission bolted to the mock up block. Tomorrow it goes in the car so I can see where the floors need to be made as well as the X member.

took a break from the heavy stuff and toyed around with a new idea of mine for the dash

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Engine mock up block and t56 are in the car. Next time, this will be done from underneath. Was a bit nervous about cutting the crossmember but oh well. It clearly kept the t56 from going up all the way.

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I still have some work to do to get everything leveled. As it sits down, it’s about 7 degrees higher in the passenger side and pointing down at the tail shaft at about 9-10 degrees
 
So looks like I’m going have to radius cut the firewall and build a new one around the trans. It currently clears, but there’s no way to remove the transmission from the engine should it need to be serviced at some point. There’s only 1/2 of clearance between the back of the bell and the firewall.
 
Got the engine and trans level side to side now. Anyone got a recommendation on what the down angle at the output shaft should be? I’m at -7 now.

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