Sorry to pester. Would these be considered catalyst paint? And would the epoxy be compatible with the urethane?
Properly painting the short block
- Thread starter Mean416
- Start date
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Sorry to pester. Would these be considered catalyst paint? And would the epoxy be compatible with the urethane?
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
The above tips are great for Prep. I have had excellent results with Eastwood's 2 part engine paint. Being catalyzed, the paint hardens. I painted the engine in my Cuda 8 years ago, and it still looks good. Plus, it is reasonably priced.
Sorry it took so long, it was buried in the corner. I apply 2 coats of this, letting each coat dry about 15 minutes. Then I trim the parts that need paint with an X-Acto knife. It's similar to rubber cement. After you trim off the excess, it lifts off easily. Then I paint everything in the area. After it dries, peel of the mask with the paint on it. It easily lifts off. RC modelers have been using this stuff for years. Give you a sharp, crisp line every time.View attachment 1715866253
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Yes, all will work together nicely. You'll just want to be sure and follow the p sheet for th epoxy and the urethane.
Should hold up nicely.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
That dont look like any Mopar engine I have ever seen?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
I hope you have better luck then some have had with VHT.Never said I painted a mopar engine.
This is a big block Chevy for my boat.
Hold the timing cover up against the block, use a sharpie to mark out its outline. Tape everything off inside that outline and the head deck surface along with the bottom side of the block. Use high heat engine paint of your brand choice. 2 light sprays, let set 10 minutes between each spray then 1 heavy wet spray (spray clear coat on immediately after you spray wet coat so it mixes with paint otherwise clearcoat will peel the color paint up out of the metal pores) let dry overnight and voila! There ya have a perfect paint coat. (All this was based off of instructions I received from high dollar painters at my autobody assembly job) This is my 318 magnum dirt track engine I just painted the other night. Paint job is tough as nails.
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also clean VERY thoroughly with carb cleaner! AND PRIMER IS NOT NEEDED. 
2 posts up (#35) - don't paint the flat machined surface where the distributor goes. beyond the distributor and paint chips it makes it hard to seal the oil seal at the back of the intake manifold. I have found that a last wipe down with BrakeKleen is the key to adhesion. It gets the last oily residue out and dries without a residue
The flat out best paint jobs I have ever seen on an engine were done with standard automotive car paint.
This is the route I'm taking
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