PST v. QA1 strut rods

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mflynn

Well-Known Member
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Location
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I will be putting adjustable strut rods in my ‘68 notchback. Can’t figure out whether to go with PST or QA1. I’ve read just about everything I could find on this (and there is excellent, very helpful content here - thanks guys!) but I still keep going back and forth. Right now I am leaning toward PST primarily because it looks like I won’t have to take the whole suspension apart to put them in. Can I get some opinions on this? Is it true that PST can be installed without taking everything apart? Is that reason enough to to go with them? Is there a reason why QA1 would be preferable (other than price)? Thanks!
 
I will be putting adjustable strut rods in my ‘68 notchback. Can’t figure out whether to go with PST or QA1. I’ve read just about everything I could find on this (and there is excellent, very helpful content here - thanks guys!) but I still keep going back and forth. Right now I am leaning toward PST primarily because it looks like I won’t have to take the whole suspension apart to put them in. Can I get some opinions on this? Is it true that PST can be installed without taking everything apart? Is that reason enough to to go with them? Is there a reason why QA1 would be preferable (other than price)? Thanks!

Good afternoon , I have a pair of PST arms with about 1500 miles on them . If your interested , $ 225 plus shipping from 34690. I will except PayPal.
Thank you
Ken
 
Good afternoon , I have a pair of PST arms with about 1500 miles on them . If your interested , $ 225 plus shipping from 34690. I will except PayPal.
Thank you
Ken
Thanks for the offer but no offense I’d prefer new. Any reason why you took them off after only 1500miles?
 
I have the PST strut rods on my car, they work great (huge improvement in steering precision and no more pulling to the side under hard braking) and have held up well after at least 10k miles. However looking at the QA1 ones they seem to be slightly better quality, I like the finish on the rod itself with the "knurled" section and the part that holds the Heim joint looks a lot beefier than the bent steel bracket on the PST. Plus right now I just looked and the QA1 strut rods are about $40 cheaper than the PST units. I don't think you can go wrong either way though.
 
I have the PST strut rods on my car, they work great (huge improvement in steering precision and no more pulling to the side under hard braking) and have held up well after at least 10k miles. However looking at the QA1 ones they seem to be slightly better quality, I like the finish on the rod itself with the "knurled" section and the part that holds the Heim joint looks a lot beefier than the bent steel bracket on the PST. Plus right now I just looked and the QA1 strut rods are about $40 cheaper than the PST units. I don't think you can go wrong either way though.
Thanks for the reply. Got the PST strut rods and installed them a few weeks ago. What a difference! Much tighter feel, returns to straight and stays that way, even during hard braking. Massive improvement, and very easy to install. Small complaints: Would have liked some better/more detailed instructions; I didn’t like having to drill out the bolt hole on the LCA; and although PST tech support was very accessible and helpful, they never called back (they said they would) with the torque spec on the LCA-end nut/bolt. I’ve posted a few photos (my old stuff - scary! and the new) and if anyone is looking to do an adjustable strut rod upgrade feel free to contact me for more.

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So there are a few differences between the PST and QA1 strut rods. The first is pretty obvious, the QA1 strut rods are primarily aluminum. On the PST strut rods everything is steel. Next biggest thing in my opinion is how they attach to the LCA. The PST strut rods use a bolt to go through the LCA and into the end of the threaded tube. The QA1 strut rods use a double adjuster, one end threads into the end of the tube with a jam nut and then the other side goes through the LCA, so that a nut is used on the backside of the LCA. The difference there is how the strut rods are adjusted. On the QA1 strut rods you can just loosen the jam nuts and spin the tube like a tie rod adjuster, that changes the length of the strut rod. You can do that with the nut on the backside of the LCA tightened and just the jam nuts loose. With the PST strut rods (and others like them), you have to loosen the rear bolt, set the length by spinning the tube, and then tighten the bolt up again. You can't tell if you got the length right until you torque that rear bolt and cycle the suspension through to check for binding, and if you didn't get the length quite right you have to loosen the bolt, adjust the length, retorque it and recheck for binding. Needless to say, it's a much easier process to adjust the length of the QA1 strut rods and check for binding than it is with the PST strut rod or others like them. With the QA1's you can torque the pillow block at the front, torque the nut on the backside of the LCA, and then just spin the strut rod tube as you cycle through the suspension. Once you've got it right you just set the jam nuts.

The double adjuster on the QA1 strut rods does mean that the LCA has to slide back in order to install the strut rod though. Which means you have to pull the torsion bars back and remove the LCA pivot nuts. So the QA1's are a little harder to install initially if your suspension isn't fully apart. Because the PST and other strut rods have a bolt that goes through it means the strut rod without the bolt is short enough to fit in front of the LCA even when the torsion bars and pivot nuts are installed.

As for the life of the aluminum, I have QA1 strut rods on my Challenger (well, CAP actually, QA1 bought CAP and the strut rods were the only thing that didn't change). I put over 70k miles on them, daily driving the car in all kinds of conditions and never had an issue. They're still in great shape.
 
So there are a few differences between the PST and QA1 strut rods. The first is pretty obvious, the QA1 strut rods are primarily aluminum. On the PST strut rods everything is steel. Next biggest thing in my opinion is how they attach to the LCA. The PST strut rods use a bolt to go through the LCA and into the end of the threaded tube. The QA1 strut rods use a double adjuster, one end threads into the end of the tube with a jam nut and then the other side goes through the LCA, so that a nut is used on the backside of the LCA. The difference there is how the strut rods are adjusted. On the QA1 strut rods you can just loosen the jam nuts and spin the tube like a tie rod adjuster, that changes the length of the strut rod. You can do that with the nut on the backside of the LCA tightened and just the jam nuts loose. With the PST strut rods (and others like them), you have to loosen the rear bolt, set the length by spinning the tube, and then tighten the bolt up again. You can't tell if you got the length right until you torque that rear bolt and cycle the suspension through to check for binding, and if you didn't get the length quite right you have to loosen the bolt, adjust the length, retorque it and recheck for binding. Needless to say, it's a much easier process to adjust the length of the QA1 strut rods and check for binding than it is with the PST strut rod or others like them. With the QA1's you can torque the pillow block at the front, torque the nut on the backside of the LCA, and then just spin the strut rod tube as you cycle through the suspension. Once you've got it right you just set the jam nuts.

The double adjuster on the QA1 strut rods does mean that the LCA has to slide back in order to install the strut rod though. Which means you have to pull the torsion bars back and remove the LCA pivot nuts. So the QA1's are a little harder to install initially if your suspension isn't fully apart. Because the PST and other strut rods have a bolt that goes through it means the strut rod without the bolt is short enough to fit in front of the LCA even when the torsion bars and pivot nuts are installed.

As for the life of the aluminum, I have QA1 strut rods on my Challenger (well, CAP actually, QA1 bought CAP and the strut rods were the only thing that didn't change). I put over 70k miles on them, daily driving the car in all kinds of conditions and never had an issue. They're still in great shape.
72bluNblu - glad you replied! When I was trying to figure out what to do I found your posts extremely helpful! Thanks! You are spot on re: PST install - you just cut out the old rods (assuming like me you can’t get the nuts off) and install the PSTs without disconnecting the torsion bars to move the LCAs back. Ease of install was the primary reason I went with PST. And it was pretty easy. I did not find the adjustment to be cumbersome, but maybe that’s because I did it wrong (?). I tightened the rear bolt and checked for binding and was pretty close to the positive caster I was looking for, then was able to make final adjustment by loosening jam nut and turning the rod without loosening the rear bolt.
 
72bluNblu - glad you replied! When I was trying to figure out what to do I found your posts extremely helpful! Thanks! You are spot on re: PST install - you just cut out the old rods (assuming like me you can’t get the nuts off) and install the PSTs without disconnecting the torsion bars to move the LCAs back. Ease of install was the primary reason I went with PST. And it was pretty easy. I did not find the adjustment to be cumbersome, but maybe that’s because I did it wrong (?). I tightened the rear bolt and checked for binding and was pretty close to the positive caster I was looking for, then was able to make final adjustment by loosening jam nut and turning the rod without loosening the rear bolt.

Just make sure you re-torque the rear bolt. If you were able to adjust the length of the rod without loosening the rear bolt it means one of a couple things happened. The whole assembly may have rotated, which would mean the rear bolt isn’t tight enough. Or the adjustment you made was small enough that you didn’t see the small gap that opened up between the strut rod body and LCA. Or the best case, the bolt was a little loose and your adjustment served to tighten it.

Just check the torque on the bolt, and if you have to tighten it significantly re-check for binding.

It’s not a huge difference, I have both styles of adjustable strut rods. The QA1’s are a little easier to adjust, but the PST’s are easier to install on an already assembled suspension.
 
I do apologize if you did not get a call back from one of our techs. If you ever have an issue getting in contact with us. Please send me a PM and I will get you an answer.

Thanks
James
PST
 
I do apologize if you did not get a call back from one of our techs. If you ever have an issue getting in contact with us. Please send me a PM and I will get you an answer.

Thanks
James
PST
Thanks James. Just to be clear, your tech was great, very knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. And the product is fantastic! Only issue was no call back on torque specs. Can you provide the recommended torque spec on the rear bolt?
 
Thanks James. Just to be clear, your tech was great, very knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. And the product is fantastic! Only issue was no call back on torque specs. Can you provide the recommended torque spec on the rear bolt?


I will check and get back to you on the torque spec shortly.

Thanks
James
PST
 
Sorry for the delay on a response it is my fault that I forgot to respond.

We use a grade 8 fastener, so 5/8-18 grade 8 uncoated technically calls for 240lbs-ft of torque. The weld ends on the tubing are also chrome-moly, so it could handle this much torque. However, we always used about half that, 125ft-lbs. The full clamping force is not necessary in this type of assembly.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
Sorry for the delay on a response it is my fault that I forgot to respond.

We use a grade 8 fastener, so 5/8-18 grade 8 uncoated technically calls for 240lbs-ft of torque. The weld ends on the tubing are also chrome-moly, so it could handle this much torque. However, we always used about half that, 125ft-lbs. The full clamping force is not necessary in this type of assembly.

Thanks
James From
PST
Thanks James. No way I could ever get 240.
 
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