PVC or breather?

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jcolman said:
My car was delivered with two breathers, one on each valve cover. I've read some conflicting information regarding the need for a PVC valve connected to the carb. I'm replacing the carb with a Holley Sniper unit in a couple of weeks, but my question is "do I really need a pvc valve or will a breather on each valve cover do just fine?".

Thanks in advance!

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Just some advice.
Lose that glass/plastic fuel filter and get ya a metal one.
Far less susceptible to breakage and fire.
I also prefer hard fuel lines or at least braided flex hose vs rubber fuel hose.
 
512Stroker said:
Just some advice.
Lose that glass/plastic fuel filter and get ya a metal one.
Far less susceptible to breakage and fire.
I also prefer hard fuel lines or at least braided flex hose vs rubber fuel hose.
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Thanks. That's all getting changed out when the Sniper system gets installed hopefully later this month.
 
jcolman said:
Thanks. That's all getting changed out when the Sniper system gets installed hopefully later this month.
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If you plan on driving it between now and then I would still swap (they are $ cheap) out the filter for metal one. Because - **** happens.
 
512Stroker said:
BTW that is a very nice car. How about sharing some more pic's perhaps in a new thread.
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Thank you. I wish I could take some credit for it but all I did was write the check! Which catagory would you suggest I post in to share photos?
 
jcolman said:
Thank you. I wish I could take some credit for it but all I did was write the check! Which catagory would you suggest I post in to share photos?
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Mopar General will work.
 
jcolman said:
Thank you. I wish I could take some credit for it but all I did was write the check! Which catagory would you suggest I post in to share photos?
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If you are a new member you can introduce yourself and your car in the Welcome Wagon
 
jcolman said:
I did that a while ago but will post some more pics in Mopar general discussion
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Try to find an automotive class at the local vocational center or adult education center. Beef up your automotive IQ. If you're asking about PCV's at least google what they look like and look for it on your car. If it was a snake ....

If you're writing checks just take it to the shop that's installing the EFI and tell them to figure everything out as they should know what a PCV is. At that point all you have to do is put gas and oil in it.
 
go-fish said:
Try to find an automotive class at the local vocational center or adult education center. Beef up your automotive IQ. If you're asking about PCV's at least google what they look like and look for it on your car. If it was a snake ....

If you're writing checks just take it to the shop that's installing the EFI and tell them to figure everything out as they should know what a PCV is. At that point all you have to do is put gas and oil in it.
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Thanks. I know a "little" about cars but clearly not enough. I use to own a Shelby Cobra replica about 20 some years ago. I could take the carburetor apart blindfolded by the time I sold that car! I should have looked closer at my Duster before posting but I was going by photos I had and not the car (I'm at the beach this week and the car is at home). I actually did google PVC valves before I posted and didn't see the one that is on the back of the drivers side valve cover. I thought that the hose from the carb went to the transmission. At least I've learned something!

Fortunatly I have a trusted shop nearby at home that is doing all the work for me. About the only thing I've done myself is install some hood pins.
 
I’d buy the ME Wagner PCV valve. You’ll never need to buy another one and it’s tuneable. The off the shelf PCV valves are almost worthless.

Also, if the system is working you’ll most likely need a oil separator in line between the carb and the PCV valve.
 
Apparently I'm in the minority, but my Barracuda has not had a PCV valve since....Heck, I honestly don't remember (25+ years). I just use 2 breathers....doesn't seem to hurt performance on my car.
 
jcolman said:
My car was delivered with two breathers, one on each valve cover. I've read some conflicting information regarding the need for a PVC valve connected to the carb. I'm replacing the carb with a Holley Sniper unit in a couple of weeks, but my question is "do I really need a pvc valve or will a breather on each valve cover do just fine?". Thanks in advance!
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Hello jcolman,
Just some info to consider when installing a Holley Sniper.

Read and understand the complete installation instructions before starting work.
Follow the wiring recommendations, Shortcuts here will result in problems....
The instructions can be found here
https://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf

You can find install video's on Holley's site and on YouTube (time well spent).

You should use a Fixed Orifice type PCV valve with the EFI. Common types of PCV valves use a plunger or a flat disc with a spring to control airflow through the PCV valve depending on amount of vacuum overcoming the spring. both types have a tendency to bounce around when the engine is running under various conditions.
This bouncing causes chaos on the IAC control in the Sniper resulting in idle, drivability, and tuning issues. To overcome this we install a Fixed Orifice type PCV valve. This will always provide a constant flow of air through the orifice that does not effect the IAC. Note: the fixed unit only comes in a straight configuration so you need to buy the 1183DL and take the black 90 Deg fitting off it and install it onto the Fixed one See

When considering the fuel system components thoroughly research the the pros and cons of both external and in tank pumps and return and return less systems.

For the novice installer its better to just install the sniper system itself first and get some ride time on it before adding other upgrades like a Hyper Spark or duel sync dizzy to lessen install / integration issues that can arise.

I have installed several Snipers on customers cars and they work well when installed / tuned correctly. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron

Fixed Orifice C 06_09_21.JPG
Fixed Orifice B 06_09_21.JPG
Fixed Orifice PCV1183DL 06_09_21.jpg
 
Arron tate said:
Hello jcolman,
Just some info to consider when installing a Holley Sniper.

Read and understand the complete installation instructions before starting work.
Follow the wiring recommendations, Shortcuts here will result in problems....
The instructions can be found here
https://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf

You can find install video's on Holley's site and on YouTube (time well spent).

You should use a Fixed Orifice type PCV valve with the EFI. Common types of PCV valves use a plunger or a flat disc with a spring to control airflow through the PCV valve depending on amount of vacuum overcoming the spring. both types have a tendency to bounce around when the engine is running under various conditions.
This bouncing causes chaos on the IAC control in the Sniper resulting in idle, drivability, and tuning issues. To overcome this we install a Fixed Orifice type PCV valve. This will always provide a constant flow of air through the orifice that does not effect the IAC. Note: the fixed unit only comes in a straight configuration so you need to buy the 1183DL and take the black 90 Deg fitting off it and install it onto the Fixed one See

When considering the fuel system components thoroughly research the the pros and cons of both external and in tank pumps and return and return less systems.

For the novice installer its better to just install the sniper system itself first and get some ride time on it before adding other upgrades like a Hyper Spark or duel sync dizzy to lessen install / integration issues that can arise.

I have installed several Snipers on customers cars and they work well when installed / tuned correctly. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron

View attachment 1715749656 View attachment 1715749657 View attachment 1715749658
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Thanks Arron! Much appreciated!! My shop is installing the system but I will be sure to let them know about the pvc valve. They are also installing a hyperspark at the same time. They've done a lot of these installs so I'm hoping all goes well.
 
Also, Since I haven’t bothered to read the whole thread, because I’m at work;
It’s a PCV Valve for Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PVC is Poly Vinyl Chloride, a form of plastic
So in theory your PCV could be made out of PVC, though I doubt it
 
After post #3. They could have closed the thread. That's a PCV system. Look at it. If it's what you want, copy it. I highly recommend it for a street driven car.
 
Im watching because I found the additional information with the future EFI specific PVC. I am going EFI and would like to avoid or be able to diagnose possible hiccups.
 
RogerRamRod said:
Also, Since I haven’t bothered to read the whole thread, because I’m at work;
It’s a PCV Valve for Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PVC is Poly Vinyl Chloride, a form of plastic
So in theory your PCV could be made out of PVC, though I doubt it
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yes, my bad. I meant PCV
 
I had a 327 SBC years that had a lot of blowby. I installed a pvc valve on both valve covers, problem solved. Remember when the SBC only had a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation??
 
jcolman said:
yes, my bad. I meant PCV
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Nice clean looking engine compartment BTW.
I see what looks like Classic Auto Air heat & A/C connectors at the firewall. Seller must’ve kept the compressor & condenser? Do you have intentions on reinstalling that stuff, or just nice weather hot rod?
 
Brooks James said:
I had a 327 SBC years that had a lot of blowby. I installed a pvc valve on both valve covers, problem solved. Remember when the SBC only had a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation??
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Look at the diagram in post #3. The system needs an inlet. Doing it the way you did, there's no inlet, so there's no through flow in the crankcase.
 
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