Q: Ford Solenoid Switch in Lieu of Mopar Starter Relay?
- Thread starter archlab
- Start date
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famous bob
mopar misfit
It`s apparent that most of u guys know more about this stuff than I do. the reason I used a ford relay , was because I had to on my 406 vega, because of the heat thing, so I auto matically did one on my total rewire of the fish. it also was the easiest to locate at the end of the "free" welding cable (length) that was given to me for the rear mounted battery. I have the original I think, mopar relay that came in the pile of stuff w/ the car (basket case)
as soon as I get the car out of the body shop, I`ll try the mopar relay, or the AMC one.
thanks for the info --bob
I am still curious if the OP archlab has diagnosed his problem.This a simple system
to check,so there is no reason his problem can't be resolved quickly.Update?
As to replacement part quality,sometimes......... even buying"reputable"parts can
be disappointing,or worse.A friend/customer installed a new above mentioned brand
ign. sw., and started experiencing an intermittent no start while cranking.The switch
was replaced because they were dealing with an overcharge condition,which was the
result of an excessive voltage drop at the regulator sense wire,which is of course
the same circuit for the ballast hot,and alt. V in to the rotor.While checking and
repairing other connections fixed the charge condition,the no start reared its ugly
head again last weekend,and I made the house call.
After disconnecting the yellow wire at the starter relay, I checked the power to the
brown wire at the coil side of the ballast in the start position, nothing.The cause?
the terminals in the ign. sw. conn.(female) were oversized and when I looked
at them it's a wonder the damn thing ran at all!The pins in the OE connector were
lucky to touch at all.Luckily, the terms. were split,so I rolled one side in and sort
of "shrunk" them rollpin style.Done and down the road,but one more example...
to check,so there is no reason his problem can't be resolved quickly.Update?
As to replacement part quality,sometimes......... even buying"reputable"parts can
be disappointing,or worse.A friend/customer installed a new above mentioned brand
ign. sw., and started experiencing an intermittent no start while cranking.The switch
was replaced because they were dealing with an overcharge condition,which was the
result of an excessive voltage drop at the regulator sense wire,which is of course
the same circuit for the ballast hot,and alt. V in to the rotor.While checking and
repairing other connections fixed the charge condition,the no start reared its ugly
head again last weekend,and I made the house call.
After disconnecting the yellow wire at the starter relay, I checked the power to the
brown wire at the coil side of the ballast in the start position, nothing.The cause?
the terminals in the ign. sw. conn.(female) were oversized and when I looked
at them it's a wonder the damn thing ran at all!The pins in the OE connector were
lucky to touch at all.Luckily, the terms. were split,so I rolled one side in and sort
of "shrunk" them rollpin style.Done and down the road,but one more example...
Here's one of the AMC with NSS. AMC used Torqueflites. This is essentially a Ferd solenoid with one end of the coil hooked to that extra pin "out the back" instead of grounded at the bracket.
This "might be" an SS-590 Standard
A'nudder view
Could also use a BWD 113, I had a replacement starter relay fail on me and I will be going the remote solenoid route. Also thought of using a standard Bosch relay, but with multiple wires running to the hot post (alternator charge wire / headlight relay power / hei ignition relay power etc...) on the original starter relay the solenoid will make for a little cleaner installation...
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
I run the Ford relay because I don't like that heavy cable around the exhaust always hot to the battery. I use the Mopar start relay to control the Ford relay, so the NSS still works. Add a short jumper on the starter and you are done.
Smart boy! Nothing wrong with a Ford solenoid. They were used for decades......and still are.
gilstrj
BBDart74
can you take a pic of your wiring between the the two relays please
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
My battery and solenoid are in the trunk. Here is a simple diagram.
gilstrj
BBDart74
Thanks
mguner
How many is too many?
Another option in heavy duty relays is the Motorcraft DY 861
That's a nice alternative. Thanks. I may use that on RobKat with your permission. I can run off the NSS terminal to the clutch safety switch. Is it ok if I save that diagram?
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
Wire away, I'm not the author. I found it on the web when I did a search and saved it. I actually use a single pole battery cutoff switch and continuous duty relay to kill my battery in the trunk.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Guys the problem with that last diagram is that depending on how big the alternator is, and it doesn't have to be "that" big, the small set of switch contacts may not be and probably are NOT large enough to safely handle the alternator output.
What I recommend is use a 4 terminal (correctly known as 2 pole switch, or DPST) and use the small terminals to break the fuel pump if EFI, or the ignition feed via a relay
What I recommend is use a 4 terminal (correctly known as 2 pole switch, or DPST) and use the small terminals to break the fuel pump if EFI, or the ignition feed via a relay
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
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