I have manifolds, so, yes, the column shift linkage works. Clearance with headers remains to be seen. I think the brand of gauges that the local parts store uses is Equis.
QA1 K and Gen III
- Thread starter Cazbah362
- Start date
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Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Guy has a QA1 K member for sale, but it does not look like it’s Mopar to me. Anyone care to confirm my suspicions this is not the right one for my 74 A body?
loganscuda
This/These
It’s very hard to tell from angle of picture. It is a Mopar K. I’m pretty sure if that, but it looks kinda weird.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
I requested more pictures, once he sends them I will put them up for better visual
He said he has the rack and Pinion to go with it. But I guess I don’t understand what all is involved in making the steering work, converting from my stock K member and steering box. Any clarification on that would be appreciated as well
He said he has the rack and Pinion to go with it. But I guess I don’t understand what all is involved in making the steering work, converting from my stock K member and steering box. Any clarification on that would be appreciated as well
I would never laugh or point....but if you butt welded a piece of 3/4DD shaft to extend / adapt your factory shaft....IMO, you are playing with fire.
I have extended numerous shafts replacing only the lower portion of the 2 piece steering shaft by plug welding a piece of 3/4" DD shaft slipped into a short piece of 1" DD shaft. The 1" DD (upper portion of lower shaft) slides beautifully right back over the lower end of the top half of the factory shaft which by the way is a 3/4" DD. .....now you have a safe, secure lower that is 3/4DD at the very bottom. Cut to length (don't forget the extra safety notch) and good to go. I buy the 1" DD and 3/4 " DD shafts thru Summit, but readily available...Speedway Motors, E-bay, etc.
Position the 1" DD stub just thru the factory bearing at the lower end of the factory column tube....perfect fit.
Unless keeping the actual column tube unmodified, I normally first cut the column tube back to within an inch of the firewall plate....because I like the room.
Automatic column shifts....same /same, no problem.
I did this on Jim B's Hemi Demon /power rack / column shift years ago and currently on Nils Hemi Swinger / Passon 5-speed where room is at a premium and easy function is a must. Use the polished 3/4" DD for the lower end if going for pretty.
If you leave adequate room at the top of your new lower assembly, the shaft will remain collapsible as designed for your safety. When you want to dis assemble or remove the new lower shaft assembly, simply loosen the set screws on the u-joint / coupling and slide the lower assembly further back up onto the upper shaft inside the column.
JMO...others may vary
I have extended numerous shafts replacing only the lower portion of the 2 piece steering shaft by plug welding a piece of 3/4" DD shaft slipped into a short piece of 1" DD shaft. The 1" DD (upper portion of lower shaft) slides beautifully right back over the lower end of the top half of the factory shaft which by the way is a 3/4" DD. .....now you have a safe, secure lower that is 3/4DD at the very bottom. Cut to length (don't forget the extra safety notch) and good to go. I buy the 1" DD and 3/4 " DD shafts thru Summit, but readily available...Speedway Motors, E-bay, etc.
Position the 1" DD stub just thru the factory bearing at the lower end of the factory column tube....perfect fit.
Unless keeping the actual column tube unmodified, I normally first cut the column tube back to within an inch of the firewall plate....because I like the room.
Automatic column shifts....same /same, no problem.
I did this on Jim B's Hemi Demon /power rack / column shift years ago and currently on Nils Hemi Swinger / Passon 5-speed where room is at a premium and easy function is a must. Use the polished 3/4" DD for the lower end if going for pretty.
If you leave adequate room at the top of your new lower assembly, the shaft will remain collapsible as designed for your safety. When you want to dis assemble or remove the new lower shaft assembly, simply loosen the set screws on the u-joint / coupling and slide the lower assembly further back up onto the upper shaft inside the column.
JMO...others may vary
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HemiDenny - Thank you, sounds like sage advice I will take and use. Thank you for taking the time to explain, very nice of you. Also, if you ever need someone to "test" any of your product, I can send my address - I am a fan of your work and products.
CP
CP
Thanks.....I'll put you on the "list". You are doing great. One of the benefits of the rack install and no more steering box is on these wide Hemis, they can be moved slightly to the drivers side making a no-mod sheet metal install. I think in some areas, there is less room with the New Gen Hemi install than the stage II (66-72) Hemis.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Any chance you have a pic of the rack and pinion installed? Curious how the steering and R&P all tie in together....
Well made more progress on this build, however I did get sidetracked with another non-Mopar project which took up some time. Anyways - finally dropped the rear end, tank and bumper. Replaced the tank with a TanksInc setup which looks nice. The bumper I ordered through Summit, and should be her this weeks. I ended up trading off an 8.25 for a 8.75 with 3:91's and Sure Grip. All went in pretty well, however I noticed the axle is not totally square under the car - about an inch forward on the passenger side. When I had leafs out, I noticed that once front hanger eyelet was large than the other. I figured this was because of torque vs non-torqued side. Now I wonder if someone swapped only one side and I just noticed this? Not major drama - but will need to be figured out. Looking over the car, I see no past crash damage, so not frame or issues such as that.
Anyways - I was shopping at summit and found a set of Weld wheels, very low cost so purchased them. Backs are 15/10 4.5 offset and fronts are 15/7 with I believe 3.5 offset. I bought Nitto 275/50/15's for rear. They are tight, and believe it or not, I have more room for a larger tire if I want to in the future. I like this!
Now need to run the fuel system and wiring, just need time!
Anyways - I was shopping at summit and found a set of Weld wheels, very low cost so purchased them. Backs are 15/10 4.5 offset and fronts are 15/7 with I believe 3.5 offset. I bought Nitto 275/50/15's for rear. They are tight, and believe it or not, I have more room for a larger tire if I want to in the future. I like this!
Now need to run the fuel system and wiring, just need time!
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Looking good!
cu440da
Well-Known Member
Are there any factory oil pans that work with the QA1 k frame? I am curious about whether the car oil pan sump (front sump) would nestle in between the cross tubes.
cu440da
Well-Known Member
Bummer. Thanks for the pic, though.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
I have seen one or two instances where individuals have relocated that front bar.....
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I think you are heading down the Milodon road! And that has enough controversy all by its self. We actually have a thread on here somewhere over the merits or lack there of on Milodon quality. I can only speak to my personal experience and I have several Milodon oil pans with no issues. But if you want to poke a Bear that is a great topic!
cu440da
Well-Known Member
Kind of why I asked. I have seen both sides of the Milodon discussions, and I'd rather avoid an expensive pan anyway.
I was looking at it and wondering the same thing.
Good morning all,
Well as with life, build took a little change in direction. Over the summer neighbor passed away. We had been working on an LS swapped K20. When he passed, the family did not want it and viola - I have a new basket case project. Other than eating into my project space and time continuum, it is pretty cool.
Well updates on the Demon. Engine is in, wired and now going through the troubleshooting of swap life. I am using the EFI Gold box. I know Holley has just came out with their Terminator X, but Gold Box and EFI Source have been wonderful, especially in trouble shooting, ideas and support. Big shout out to Big Mike - great person and excellent response, insight and ideas.
Wiring, well this will be a bit of a ramble, but it all connects: I am using the car front timing set up. With that said, I trimmed my frame rail for the the alternator and installed with alternator attached. Well I purchased SpeedHut Gauges and needed to install the sensor. I also thought since I am using used items such as water pump, pulley and and alternator, there was a possibility of noisy components for first start. With that said, I pulled the belt and went to pull the alternator. TIGHT! The two lower bolts where too long and needed to be cut to get out. Also, frame rail is a hair to tight, needed to pry out. Learning point, make lower bolts only the size you need and trim frame rail. This will improve serviceability of alternator area access (Oil Fittings, Oil Sender and alternator).
Well first start went well, I did have a wiring issue or two. First issue was blue and brown wire. I removed as much useless wiring from bulk head area when cleaning up, blue wire included. Well, went to start and would start, but die afterwards. Also, MAP wires - seems I get ones which are wired opposite, so switched A and C, boom - no issues. Oil pressure is 45 at cranking and 72 ish at cold idle.
I need to finish wiring up, that is the next task. I want this as clean as possible with as many working/functioning areas such as dome, reverse, and trunk lights. (Believe it or not trunk light was in an functioning - this is a first, especially on a car which has been sitting for so long and neglected (only two bullet holes).
Well as with life, build took a little change in direction. Over the summer neighbor passed away. We had been working on an LS swapped K20. When he passed, the family did not want it and viola - I have a new basket case project. Other than eating into my project space and time continuum, it is pretty cool.
Well updates on the Demon. Engine is in, wired and now going through the troubleshooting of swap life. I am using the EFI Gold box. I know Holley has just came out with their Terminator X, but Gold Box and EFI Source have been wonderful, especially in trouble shooting, ideas and support. Big shout out to Big Mike - great person and excellent response, insight and ideas.
Wiring, well this will be a bit of a ramble, but it all connects: I am using the car front timing set up. With that said, I trimmed my frame rail for the the alternator and installed with alternator attached. Well I purchased SpeedHut Gauges and needed to install the sensor. I also thought since I am using used items such as water pump, pulley and and alternator, there was a possibility of noisy components for first start. With that said, I pulled the belt and went to pull the alternator. TIGHT! The two lower bolts where too long and needed to be cut to get out. Also, frame rail is a hair to tight, needed to pry out. Learning point, make lower bolts only the size you need and trim frame rail. This will improve serviceability of alternator area access (Oil Fittings, Oil Sender and alternator).
Well first start went well, I did have a wiring issue or two. First issue was blue and brown wire. I removed as much useless wiring from bulk head area when cleaning up, blue wire included. Well, went to start and would start, but die afterwards. Also, MAP wires - seems I get ones which are wired opposite, so switched A and C, boom - no issues. Oil pressure is 45 at cranking and 72 ish at cold idle.
I need to finish wiring up, that is the next task. I want this as clean as possible with as many working/functioning areas such as dome, reverse, and trunk lights. (Believe it or not trunk light was in an functioning - this is a first, especially on a car which has been sitting for so long and neglected (only two bullet holes).
A little progress. I purchased a dash pad from Ebay and used Herb's Part to match interior color (F5 Dark Green). The color was spot on and wonderful to use. They make some claims about runs, drying etc, well they are accurate.
Also installed the new gauge cluster and SpeedHut gauges. These are very cool and enjoy the setting for warning, shift light etc.... Only issue I have is the fuel sender. I am not sure if I have wrong ohms, or set up the the sender in the tank incorrectly - Swap Drama - but will get worked out.
Next step is interior. The interior is F5 green, so trying to keep it as original as practical. I have seat covers coming for buckets and rear bench, should be here next week?
As for the Hemi Swap, it is in and generally tuned. I have fans, tach, idle etc set up. Idles at 850rpm, has 60+/- oil pressure and fans turn on/off appropriately. I loaded a tune from another Hemi swap (same year and type, but different cam. This motor has the 6.4 Manual Car NON-MDS cam).
Also installed the new gauge cluster and SpeedHut gauges. These are very cool and enjoy the setting for warning, shift light etc.... Only issue I have is the fuel sender. I am not sure if I have wrong ohms, or set up the the sender in the tank incorrectly - Swap Drama - but will get worked out.
Next step is interior. The interior is F5 green, so trying to keep it as original as practical. I have seat covers coming for buckets and rear bench, should be here next week?
As for the Hemi Swap, it is in and generally tuned. I have fans, tach, idle etc set up. Idles at 850rpm, has 60+/- oil pressure and fans turn on/off appropriately. I loaded a tune from another Hemi swap (same year and type, but different cam. This motor has the 6.4 Manual Car NON-MDS cam).
Looks great!
loganscuda
This/These
on the speedhut fuel gauge I had to set mine manually was having same issue with stock sending unit. Follow the manual instructions
loganscuda
This/These
I have an autozone factory sender. I got tired of messing with the ohms. I hooked it up, pulled the sender out and set it. Instead of waiting till I ran out of gas and filled it back up.
Thought I would bring this thread forward, seems there has been a lot of Gen III swaps on FABO. Have the car up, running and driving as of now. Working out the bugs, building other projects and building a shop, so been a busy summer - but no racing.
One issue I am working on is binding in the rear end. I used the factory /6 rear leaf springs on the 8.75 swap and I believe the drive line is a bit too long, so working through this. At this time, thinking Caltracks?
Here are updated photos
One issue I am working on is binding in the rear end. I used the factory /6 rear leaf springs on the 8.75 swap and I believe the drive line is a bit too long, so working through this. At this time, thinking Caltracks?
Here are updated photos
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Looks awesome! I’m sure I can go back and look through the post but thought I would just ask instead. Did you swap to a QA1 front K Member? I’m curious about notching the pinch weld on the passenger side in order to clear the alternator, when staying with the stock k member....
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