Ron, I had a /6 71 K at my disposal, and I was trying to go with Schumackers /6 to Gen III mounts. At the time it was not revealed Schumacker was going out of business, and I had the mounts on order for about 3 months? When I finally got fed up with waiting, I tried to find a suitable matching K, and the prices are crazy, we are gouging each other in this hobby. So instead of paying huge prices for a K, I bought the QA1 and simply went with the TTI mounts. Yes, I could have fabricated, but I did not.....
QA1 K and Gen III
- Thread starter Cazbah362
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Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Looking great that interior redone looks awesome.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
I hear ya man. I’m always amazed at some of the prices I see on this stuff.
I wonder though, if the QA1 shifts the position of the Hemi. Looks like you have pretty good clearance for the alternator. I’m faced with (best I can tell at this point) notching the pinch weld. Tempted to try and fit it in 1st, but I’m equally concerned even if it does fit, will I be able to swap the alternator out later....
Sorry for my tangent, but yes you need to notch the pinch weld with the QA1 and factory K. I took mine to about an 1/8 inch from frame and put a quick bead with my Mig.
I did an E-body with a factory K and needed same body modification as well.
ALSO - put a hole in the lower frame for the bolt to come/slide out or shorten the lower bolt. Makes for easier maintenance in the future. Top bolt comes out without issue.
Hope this answers the question - if not, let me know.
Here are some pictures.
I did an E-body with a factory K and needed same body modification as well.
ALSO - put a hole in the lower frame for the bolt to come/slide out or shorten the lower bolt. Makes for easier maintenance in the future. Top bolt comes out without issue.
Hope this answers the question - if not, let me know.
Here are some pictures.
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Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
That’s actually perfect! Thank you sir!
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Did you use EFI MS GoldBox?
Yes I did, I have done two or three of these with the Gold Box. Only issues I have are:
1. Usually the MAP is backwards and will not let the car idle - simple as swapping wires
2. No support for transmissions
3. Have to use a drive by cable set up. They sell an adapter for LS type throttle bodies, them bought the matching size E-bay TB, about a $120 expense for everything, but works nicely
I am using the Holley Terminator X on an LS car I have built and see they have support for DBW and such. They have now come out with a system for Gen III's, and I would think of going that route if I did another one.
1. Usually the MAP is backwards and will not let the car idle - simple as swapping wires
2. No support for transmissions
3. Have to use a drive by cable set up. They sell an adapter for LS type throttle bodies, them bought the matching size E-bay TB, about a $120 expense for everything, but works nicely
I am using the Holley Terminator X on an LS car I have built and see they have support for DBW and such. They have now come out with a system for Gen III's, and I would think of going that route if I did another one.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
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I too put a 6.1 in a 72 Demon and had to create some relief space for alternator as well. I used a Hemi Denny K frame. Total game changer. I would still be trying to fit the thing in without it.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Where are the recent pictures????
What alternator are you guys using? I've done two A bodies with stock K's and haven't had to notch. Do the tube k's set the engine lower?
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
I’m running stock V8 K member, 2016 Challenger Alternator.
loganscuda
This/These
Nice job. Looks fantastic. I’m waiting for my 5.7 heads to go so I can upgrade to the 6.4.
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On my build thread.
I had to step away from it for a bit and actually focus on my real job. Gotta make hay when the sun shines don’t ya know! I should be back to it in a couple of weeks.
Negative, Ghost Rider. Car.
No secrets. Just car front accessory drive. I do know that the car VVT has two different amp alternators. The 160 amp is the smaller of the two.
Kinda hard to see. No notching of the rail. It is dang close though.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
And you are running the smaller of the two alternators? The 160 amp? I think that’s what I have....
Correct. The smaller one.
fourdoormuscle
Well-Known Member
So the TTI headers ended up working after all? I'm still in the early stages of parts collecting for my swap but already have the qa1 kmember. Have held off on headers just because there seems to be a lot of back and forth on the fit
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Just found this thread. Nice work!
I have a QA1 with 6.1 in our 69 Barracuda Fastback.
While the engine was on an engine stand and the QA1 K-Members was sitting on the USCT K-Member Cart/Dolly, I decided to mod the passenger side TTi Mount and move the mount location rearwards on the K-...
Seemed like a natural move and I didn't want to have a remote oil filter.
Lots of clearance.
Looks like this.
I upgraded to Poly-Loc isolators too.
For a little extra clearance to the steering box I added aluminum shims to both sides.
Test fit in the car
Link to my thread.
G3 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project
I have a QA1 with 6.1 in our 69 Barracuda Fastback.
While the engine was on an engine stand and the QA1 K-Members was sitting on the USCT K-Member Cart/Dolly, I decided to mod the passenger side TTi Mount and move the mount location rearwards on the K-...
Seemed like a natural move and I didn't want to have a remote oil filter.
Lots of clearance.
Looks like this.
I upgraded to Poly-Loc isolators too.
For a little extra clearance to the steering box I added aluminum shims to both sides.
Test fit in the car
Link to my thread.
G3 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project
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sbmopar318
Well-Known Member
What did you end up doing?
B_Chandler
Member
I'm going down this route myself. I have a '71 Duster that I'm putting a 5.7 in. It's a passenger car version, so the alternator is low and right. I've got the QA1 K-member, TTI mounts, Borgeson power steering box and the TTI headers made specifically for that steering box(61WPA?). TTI gives instructions on elongating the bolt holes on the power steering box to move it away from the engine, but it needs a little more. I'm about as close as the other post with the headers "touching/not touching" the manual box. The spacer idea is perfect. Should be just enough to increase the social distancing between components and transmit any other misalignment elsewhere. I just set the motor down on the mounts a weekend or two ago and it's in there, but really tight in some places. I opted for the Mancini oil filter relocation kit that comes with the TTI blockoff plate and all the hoses, fittings, and remote oil filter mount. Not a bad deal, but fundamentally flawed. The kit comes with a pair of 45deg NPT to AN fittings that are supposed to thread into the ports on the block, but the ports are too close together to thread 45 degree fittings into. I ended up purchasing a straight NPT to AN and a 45 deg female AN to hose fitting to make it work. I emailed Mancini, but have yet to hear anything. I'm okay with the deal, just thought they might want to know. I've also been looking at the steering column hole and where the motor sits in that regard and had questions about clearance, but the answer to that is in this thread already. I used the Mildon pan (got the pan, correct pickup and windage tray for $100 off Marketplace, never installed. WooHoo!) I also swapped out the drag link, idler, and pitman arm for the 73 and later style. Lock to lock the steering doesn't hit the pan. I've talked myself into a T56, I just need to convince my budget.
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