Question about carbs for tunnel rams
- Thread starter ozmoparjoe
- Start date
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ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Aha.....awesome thanks j par and everyone else
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, any ideas on what i can do about the distributor vac advance hitting the tunnel ram?
Since you've got a right hand drive, and the water goes down the drain backwards where you are, how about you turn the dizzy 180* and swap the wires?
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
hahaha i suppose i could do thatSince you've got a right hand drive, and the water goes down the drain backwards where you are, how about you turn the dizzy 180* and swap the wires?
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Back again, sorry for all the posts, got a couple of newbie questions, firstly, looking at the pic i posted earlier with the tunnel ram sitting on my engine, is the top on the right way? Also can anyone please tell me the correct name of these "spacers" i have circled in the pic below?
Thanks again for the help!
Thanks again for the help!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
The spacers are velocity stacks. The distributor can be clocked any way you want to make the vacuum can miss the intake manifold. The top is on correctly when the slope of the carb pads is down in the front. Just like you have it in the picture with the distributor. So that is correct.
Remove the distributor and ether rotate the rotor 180*’s outa d then re route the wires accordingly or move the oil pump drive with a big screw driver. With the large flat top screw driver, stick it in the pump drive as if removing the drive but just keep rotating the drive a number of teeth u til the distributor clears.
j par
Well-hung Member
Disagreed! those spacers are called "badass!"
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Thanks again guys, will keep you posted on how things go!
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
This is going to sound silly, but what will happen to the firing order by moving the oil pump drive?
I can't spin it 180* as the vac adv hits the firewall.
Also, is it possible to actually remove the vac adv unit all together? It doesn't get used anyway.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Just turn the gear. It doesn't affect the firing order.
And I'd reconsider not using the vacuum advance. I'd use it.
And I'd reconsider not using the vacuum advance. I'd use it.
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
ok cool i'll try it out soon thanks!
Moving the spot in the oil pump drive (intermediate shaft) will just move the position of the rotor a little bit. If you needed a lot of room & have the room to move the distributor 45*’s or 90*’s, the new number one spot can still be slide over a bit.
Sit down and just play with it and you’ll see what I mean.
And yes! Good lord that thing is really tight in there.
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Hello all, just wondering if there's a throttle cable bracket available for these tunnel rams? Any help always appreciated thanks.
Ps. i think i have rectified the vac advance issue.
Ps. i think i have rectified the vac advance issue.
When talking about carbs cfm isnt how much air a carb will flow but how restricted the carb is. Ultimately you want the carbs that will give you the desired vacuum level at full throttle for your application.
Put a 390 cfm 2bbl on a radical 540 engine, its gonna kill a lot of power but it will still suck the cfm it needs just at a higher vacuum level "restive" .
I'd go with two 500-650 ish carbs.
Put a 390 cfm 2bbl on a radical 540 engine, its gonna kill a lot of power but it will still suck the cfm it needs just at a higher vacuum level "restive" .
I'd go with two 500-650 ish carbs.
Nice engine set up.
Try a Lokar cable. For a more conventional like set up where the cable pulls the carb throttle arm.
Try a Lokar cable. For a more conventional like set up where the cable pulls the carb throttle arm.
Lokar : Products
Give them a call.
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Knoxville, TN 37931
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Lokar Throttle Cable Brackets SRK-4000
Lokar Hi-Tech Throttle Cables TC-1000HT
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
thanks guys
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
hi guys, finally fired up the engine today after fitting alloy heads and tunnel ram with the 2 x 500 Eddy's, but its idling too high, setting the timing to where it was originally makes it idle around 1200 rpm and the idle screws are out all the way, im going to have another look tomorrow to see if i can make some more adjustments, but im thinking a possible vacuum leak? Couldn't see anything obvious though. If anyone wants to throw some suggestions my way it's greatly appreciated thanks.
If your idle screws are all the way out, the carbs are to jetted to lean.
Idle to high and the timing is where you want it?
Idle screw(s) are adjusted to far in.
Double check timing, look for air leaks.
Make sure both carbs fully close at the same time. Make sure the linkage is opening and closing both carbs exactly at the same time and distance.
Idle to high and the timing is where you want it?
Idle screw(s) are adjusted to far in.
Double check timing, look for air leaks.
Make sure both carbs fully close at the same time. Make sure the linkage is opening and closing both carbs exactly at the same time and distance.
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Thanks rumblefish, so i have found the problem! Spent quite some time looking over it, checking for vacuum leaks, resetting idle mixture screws to 1.5 turns out, looked at idle speed screws on both carbs and couldn't see any evidence of anything being wrong. So next step was to remove carbs and see if there was anything visibly wrong, removed fron carb and spent some time looking it over but couldn't see anything wrong at all with it, so onto rear carb, looking it over and came to the idle speed screw and noticed it was wound in considerably! I was like WTF??? Looking at it while on the engine it looked fine! Anyway so i wound it out til it was just touching the stopper (or whatever it's called) and re fitted the carb, hooked everything back up and started the engine up and right away i noticed it was better, so i went and set the timing and now it's all good!
Next step....dyno!
Next step....dyno!
Excellent!!!!!
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, car is up and running and took it to a local show the other day, running ok but pre igniting on shut off! Anyway, going in for dyno tune on Wednesday!
ozmoparjoe
Well-Known Member
I have a question that's probably going to sound stupid but here goes....
As you can see from pics, i'm running velocity stack air filters, but i want to run these like in the pic below >>>
But my problem is these are 9 inch diameter and from what i can tell, they wont fit as thay are slightly too large. The stacks are 8.75 inch diameter see pics >>>
As you can see, i have sat a 9 inch top on one of the stacks and the difference is visible. Anyone have any suggestions as to why it wont work on mine? I would have thought all tunnel ram tops would have the same centre point to point (centre of carbs). Thanks in advance.
As you can see from pics, i'm running velocity stack air filters, but i want to run these like in the pic below >>>
But my problem is these are 9 inch diameter and from what i can tell, they wont fit as thay are slightly too large. The stacks are 8.75 inch diameter see pics >>>
As you can see, i have sat a 9 inch top on one of the stacks and the difference is visible. Anyone have any suggestions as to why it wont work on mine? I would have thought all tunnel ram tops would have the same centre point to point (centre of carbs). Thanks in advance.
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