question about strut rods

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70Swinger

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i have a question about strut rods, if they are bent would that cause my wheel to sit on an angle? or wut else could it be?

Thnx, Adam
 
I would think you'd need quite a bend in a strut rod to cause a wheel to be at an angle. The left one on my Valiant had a good bend in it but it never changed the front end geometry so that it was noticable. Which wheel is at an angle, and which way - ie. in at the top, in at the bottom?
 
Incorrect torsion bar adjustment could be your problem. If they are too high/low it could cause +/- camber misalignment. Just a thought!
 
OldVart said:
I would think you'd need quite a bend in a strut rod to cause a wheel to be at an angle. The left one on my Valiant had a good bend in it but it never changed the front end geometry so that it was noticable. Which wheel is at an angle, and which way - ie. in at the top, in at the bottom?
Click to expand...

well the front passenger side wheel looks like this \ only not that crazy of an angle, looking at it from the back passenger side tire.

Help any?
 
O.K. Is your strut rod bent on the passenger side? That would seem to be something in the main suspension: tie rod end adjustment, ball joint? Check your upper control arm bolts and ball joint VERY carefully. And, as mentioned, make sure your torsion bars aren't way out of wack.
 
OldVart said:
O.K. Is your strut rod bent on the passenger side? That would seem to be something in the main suspension: tie rod end adjustment, ball joint? Check your upper control arm bolts and ball joint VERY carefully. And, as mentioned, make sure your torsion bars aren't way out of wack.
Click to expand...

both of my strut rods are bent, only the one on the passenger side is worse then the driver side one. But ill check all that.

Thnx for the help, Adam
 
Yeah I'd def get new strut rods, also check the cam bolts on the upper control arm. If they're out of whack that would give a funk camber to the wheel.
 
The upper control arm adjusters set caster and camber alignment. Airborne is correct in suggesting the torsion bar. Front end height (set by the torsion bar adjustment) must be within the correct range before attempting to set caster and camber. Height is specified by the difference measured between two points on the lower conrol arm (I forget which two). The A-Body spec for caster is +-1 degree positive, I believe. If the height is too low or too high you cannot set the caster/camber, and those settings will even change by itself after adjustment because the relative pivot point geometry within the system is out of whack. It'll drive pretty weird, too. After you get the height, caster and camber dialed in, set toe-in to no more than about 1 16th in. and you're done!
 
You definitely need new strut rods, I'd suggest adjustable ones as it's nearly impossible on these cars to get positive caster and camber anymore. The tops of the frame rails roll inward taking all the adjustment away. There are adjustable upper control arms for this also but you should get your front end checked out first to see if you need ball joints, control arm bushings (both upper and lower) or any linkage pieces replaced first. That way you can buy it all at once and take it apart one time. Of course if it's high mileage and hasn't had a front end rebuild then you should just consider replacing all the ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, strut rods, pitman and idler arms anyway. But you may still need adjustable upper control arms.
 
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