Questions: Fluids and Wiring

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Riddler

Riddler

Project EH-Body
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Lets start with fluids. The car is a 76 Duster with 6.1L Hemi and 96 T56 with a 8.75 rear end. Here's a list of the fluids I put together.

Oil: Mobil 1 - 0w40 OR Rotella T6 - 5w40. From what I understand I need seven quarts from dry plus another six quarts due to the Milodon oil pan? This seems like a lot of oil? Anyone know how much is needed for a 6.1L with a Milodon swap pan?

Transmission: Mopar T56 Fluid ($$$$) OR GM Synchromesh. Only need four quarts.

Rear Axle: 80/90 OR 75w90 with a bottle of Mopar Sure Grip Fluid. Need 2.5 to three quarts.

Coolant: Regular green coolant needed mix 50/50 water.


Wiring question:

Anyone know where these lamp socket ends can be found other than Ron Francis?
LC-8-Md.jpg



I'm sure I'll have more questions....

Thanks,

Riddler
 
I'd double check that engine oil. From what I've see, the Gen 3 Hemi uses something like 5W20. I know I wouldn't put Rotella in it. Just me.
 
easyrider said:
I'd double check that engine oil. From what I've see, the Gen 3 Hemi uses something like 5W20. I know I wouldn't put Rotella in it. Just me.
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I've gone to LX Forums and read quite a bit over there. I'm not planning to use Rotella. I'm going to use Mobil 1 and the factory fill for the 6.1L is a 0w40. I'm asking if it really matters as some have said it does and others not so much.

I can get 5w30 Mobil 1 cheap but will it harm anything? Even the oil cap says 0w40 is whats suggested.

Riddler
 
Ow40 Mobil 1 . Catch it on sale at Walmart or Amazon. I have a 2010 srt8 with the 6.1 hemi. Tolerances on bearings are real tight.
 
Dave1967 said:
Ow40 Mobil 1 . Catch it on sale at Walmart or Amazon. I have a 2010 srt8 with the 6.1 hemi. Tolerances on bearings are real tight.
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Thank you good sir. We have Canadian Tire as well as Walmart up here and Canadian Tire has 5 quarts for like $40. I'm hoping they have the 0w40.

How much oil do you need for an oil change?

Riddler
 
I will chime in on the Trans oil.

USE ONLY THE FACTORY SPEC'D OIL. USE ONLY THE FACTORY SPEC'D OIL. USE ONLY THE FACTORY SPEC'D OIL.

Using any other spec WILL damage the fiber backings used inside, and will also attack the yellow metals used as well. I did a lot of research on this because I read a lot of complaints as to why Mopar specs such an expensive oil for the T56. Plenty of people tell stories about how they used the cheaper stuff and havent had any issues. In their ignorance, they say this having never taken one apart for service. All they know is it worked for them. Damage is there, they just dont know it. As expensive as these transmissions are, I choose not to skimp. Save $50 now, just to pay thousands in repair later. No thank you.

From what I had read on some oil forums, the GM synchromesh is the same stuff- IIRC.
Verify this on your own because my memory is not what it used to be...
My local Dodge dealer had what I needed on hand so I didnt have to resort to the GM stuff.

Here is a helpful tip for you on filling the trans with oil. Pull the shifter out and fill it from there. Getting oil in the normal fill hole is damn near impossible when its in the car. Just make sure you have the driveshaft or a yoke installed or you will find a really expensive puddle of oil underneath the car as it takes the path of least resistance out your tailshaft. Yes, I found out the hard way... Luckily only after most of the first quart.
 
Riddler said:
Coolant: Regular green coolant needed mix 50/50 water.Riddler
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Only if you are using an original style radiator. If you have a newer aluminum radiator, you would need to use the aluminum safe coolant which seems to come in several colors.
 
Riddler said:
Rear Axle: 80/90 OR 75w90 with a bottle of Mopar Sure Grip Fluid. Need 2.5 to three quarts.
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Cone style- should be good to go with most anything at the parts store for limited slip diffs.

Clutch style- I have not had luck with anything currently at the parts store. Even with an extra bottle of limited slip additive. Still acts up like a spool, shuddering and chirping around corners. If anyone finds an oil that works, please let me know!
 
cu440da,

Thanks, I believe my sure grip is a cone style. As for the coolant, thanks for the heads up as I am using an aluminum rad.

I called the local dealer and was told by the old parts guy there to head to the GM dealer for the synchromesh stuff. Which is what I was told from a friend who works at SRT. However my trans is a 96 Borg Warner trans not a tremec. So here lies some confusion for me.

Thank you again,

Riddler
 
For sure, the Borg Warners need the right stuff, as they used fiber backings on some internal parts. Tremecs, with the exception of some early transition units, did not use the fiber inside, and could use a different oil. I think thats where some confusion comes in. People may think T56's are all the same but they are not. Also, there were running changes and upgrades through the years that caused specs to change. In the end, you still need yellow metal friendly oil, though.
 
cu440da said:
For sure, the Borg Warners need the right stuff, as they used fiber backings on some internal parts. Tremecs, with the exception of some early transition units, did not use the fiber inside, and could use a different oil. I think thats where some confusion comes in. People may think T56's are all the same but they are not. Also, there were running changes and upgrades through the years that caused specs to change. In the end, you still need yellow metal friendly oil, though.
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Yeah I just read a few viper forums and they say to use the Mopar fluid or a GM fluid. I'll prolly find out the price of the mopar stuff and go from there.

Riddler
 
This is what I'm using in my Hemi with Al rad. Based on what I've read- Zerex makes Mopars HOAT coolant.

You can get Zerex G-05 at a NAPA store and probably Wal mart
 

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For the rear doc diff recommends 85w140 dyno oil with the ford friction modifier. I used the Torco RGO 85w140 with the ford modifier, works nice!
 
6 quart plan = 6 quarts total, plus a tad for filter, etc.

So really 6.5ish when you account for the filter, and probably a bit more for oil in the system.

I would recommend you fill 6 quarts from dry and mark the dipstick.

When I did everything, I put in the dipstick with the pan off and marked the crank on the dipstick. 7 quarts is still shy of the crank (by a good bit).
 
I've run a bunch of different oils in the 3G Hemi. I run conventional for at least first 500 miles or so. Straight 30 wt. Then 20-50 amsoil for high temp open road racing. Also have run 5-20 in the past (factory spec for 5.7 if I remember correctly).

I run synchromesh in my tko. I was thinking the t-56 is a different spec? I would recommend sticking with what is spec'ed for your specific t-56. And t-56's have different spec oils due to paper vs carbon (I think).
 
Yeah I was just going over that I typed. LOL 7+6. I should of said the oil was either 6 quarts or 7 quarts. I'm gonna buy 7 quarts and put 6 in at first and see where it gets me.

I'll add more if needed.

Riddler
 
I would put Valvoline 75/140 Synthetic in diff with GM Friction Modifier if its a clutch diff. My trans has a Castrol Syntorq sticker on it which is now sold only through Mopar and is a 85W gear oil that is a very specific formula. Make sure what your trans came factory filled with. I have Redline MT-85 in my trans now and so far I like it.
 
I like the genuine Mopar long life coolant (yellow), have had these engines apart I modern Mopars after many miles and no sign of any corrosion, expensive stuff out here in Aussie, but well worth it where you have a mix of metals.

Any good quality full synthetic 0W-40 oil should be fine, or you can use 5W-40 in hotter climates. The 6.1 doesn't have MDS, so should less sensitive to oil viscosity than the 5.7.
 
Also I just bought new 1157 socket assemblies, they are a pain to swap out of the taillight assemblies though.
 
What is your transmission out of? The early Vipers actually used Dexron III in them (there is a sticker on the side that says so). They switched to a heavier oil later (Castrol Syntorq in a Mopar bottle) due to people complaining about rattle in idle, but it's not necessary to use in the earlier ones if you don't want to. Not sure what GM T56s spec. I know my T56 was out of a 2000 or 2002 Viper I believe and has the Castrol Syntorq sticker on the side, but I filled it with Dexron III. The Dexron will give it a lighter shifter feel compared to the Syntorq, but if I had a high power build I'd probably hedge my bets and go with the Syntorq. I just have a mostly stock setup, so I'm not worried about 350-400 hp hurting a T56.
 
Riddler said:
Lets start with fluids. The car is a 76 Duster with 6.1L Hemi and 96 T56 with a 8.75 rear end. Here's a list of the fluids I put together.

Oil: Mobil 1 - 0w40 OR Rotella T6 - 5w40. From what I understand I need seven quarts from dry plus another six quarts due to the Milodon oil pan? This seems like a lot of oil? Anyone know how much is needed for a 6.1L with a Milodon swap pan?

Transmission: Mopar T56 Fluid ($$$$) OR GM Synchromesh. Only need four quarts.

Rear Axle: 80/90 OR 75w90 with a bottle of Mopar Sure Grip Fluid. Need 2.5 to three quarts.

Coolant: Regular green coolant needed mix 50/50 water.
Click to expand...

Motor: AMSOIL recently (within the last 6 months) came out with a new 0W-40 Signature series oil for the high performance modern Mopars. I use it in my RAM SRT-10 and have been happy with it.

Transmission: My SRT has the Viper spec T-56 but after trying a few different fluids AMSOIL Manual Transmission fluid gave me the smoothest shifts hot or cold. With the factory fill stuff the trans was a little notchy when cold. Using AMSOIL MT fluid is what sold me on their products so if their is one spot where you want to give it a shot the trans would be it.

Rear: Using AMSOIL sever gear with a bottle of their fiction modifier in the Dana.

Coolant: Going to give AMSOIL's new anti-freeze a try in my new 440 build for my Swinger. Haven't used it yet so I'm going to sit here and recommend it. But I have used AMSOIL coolant booster and noticed reduced warm up times so thats a plus.
 
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