What do you electrical guys think of these splices? I found some under the dash, I personally don't like them and thinking of taking them out. Thanks
Ooooooooooooohhhhhhhhh boy...this gonna be good! I don’t use them because every electrition I know would choke me out if I used those things in anything but a genuine emergency. Getting the popcorn and hot cocoa ready for this one!!!
Those are known as 3M brand "Scotchloks" and SHOULD BE OUTLAWED BY A FEDERAL U.S. FELONY They are especially trouble when used as they are used most---under the rear of a vehicle to "quck" tap in for tow lights. Look at the blade that makes the connection----it is slotted which "saws" into the wire, possibly breaking strands of wire.
I Solder and shrink wrap mine. At least use a good quality connector. I can't say I've used this style ones like these ebay ones but they seem kinda neat . I like using my soldering iron. 300/50 Waterproof Solder Seal Sleeve Heat Shrink Butt Wire Connectors Terminals | eBay
I’ve personally ever had a problem with them and run tape around them to keep the connection good. They are not what I would use as a normal wiring addition in the program. Quick fix, fine. Done right? Not in my book. Proper connector, wire connections get soldered and then heat shrink wrapped.
I was thinking about needing those the other day when I was laying under my truck reconnecting the antilock brake sensor wiring at the rear end. I did use a good butt connector and some heat shrink and wrapped it in electrical tape. It worked and will probably outlast me. LOL
Its use that style all the time in telecom, just specific to telcom, I think they are 3M UB taps. Actually I rarely use them as a UR (3 way) is easier to install and we got cases of them. The blade doesnt cut the wire it just pushes the insulation aside and the wire itself nests in the groove. We only use solid core wire though, not the stranded you find in a car. Our amperage is milliamps but can get a shot of 90V AC through them @ 40 mA when ringing as well as up to 220V AC when they are installed as a T-1 or digital carrier, those will bite when touched with a knee in a puddle!
that type connector was originally designed for trough type lighting like fluorescents Where the feeder conductors are pulled all the way through in a continuous wire. then just use those to tap into it for each ballast they have no buisness being used in automotive of any kind. And yes i would choke any of my friends out for using them
These were originally used by places like U-Haul as quick/temporary hook-ups for their rented trailers, not meant to be permanent. I have seen many of these fail. All good advise here. Do a better job now and avoid a problem later.
DO NOT use them, a good friend bought a 66 B body 10.90 index car a few years back. I went over to look it over & found multiple scotch-loks under the dash. I told him we should rewire it & do away with all of the cobbled up wiring. He said he just wanted to finish the season & rewire it after that. To make a long story short, he went to the last race of the season & turned on the master power switch. As he looked up, all he saw was smoke pouring out the window. He shut the power off & when the smoke cleared, he found that one of the scotch-loks had come apart & shorted out to the body.
Every used pickup I have bought (6) have had them on hodgepodged trailer lights. Every one has had dim dash lights. Whenever I have had to rewire trailer lights, I have had to replace significant amounts of wire cause it’s all turned brown from corrosion and is no longer bare bright.
I dont like them, have seen them everywhere in cars. Under hood,dash and back of vehicles. They fail. They promote corrosion. I have a few in my terminal kit, in case i need a quick repair. Guess i should just chuck em. As i would have to do it right anyways. Never did use them. had to do a service call to rescue a “professionally” built hot rod, ring terminals werent properly crimped on ignition switch. So not every type of connector is foolproof..
These are the type I use that crimp and heat for a sealed connection. I might switch to those solder type though.
Maybe. But you can get a crack pipe torch from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap and those work better than a heat gun for me. And if you so indulge you already have the torch there to smoke the rock. Just an FYI.
