R3W7 Assembly

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Dykem blue or Dykem red is liquid and dries pretty fast. It might show a pattern. If it works at all, it would be a very precise pattern. I use it for gasket matching and grinding seat angles.
 
I really don't know what it is made of...it's a paint sold to fill in the marks on machine tool handwheel dials so they show up better.

I changed to a gear marking compound, re-checked it, and I'm comfortable with .065". The problem is the goo-goo goes on thicker than I want, and takes forever to dry so I'm checking while it's only semi-dry. I guess I could try Dy-Kem but I don't think it'll be much better. The roller tip gives little scrubbing action so I am not sure it would affect the Dy Kem much. I might try it after I talk to T&D.
pattern .187 .065.jpg
 
I know some guys use a sharpie. I’ve never tried it because every time I go to do it I can’t find one of the damned things.

It may be even tighter than the .065 your getting with that grease.

Maybe give the sharpie a whirl if you have one and can find it.
 
I first tried a Sharpie and it wouldn't 'scrub' enough off to tell. A non-roller would, I bet. Maybe I'll coat all 16 lash caps and let them bake overnight in the oven lol
 
I made a try with DyKem, it did show a drop in width, down to about .052".

As an aside, I carefully checked valve lift versus lobe lift, etc. There is right at .030" 'lost' between the lobe and the valve. .020" of that is lash, and the other .010" I assume is flex. But, I am using the checking pushrods and they have a small diameter thread, so I would expect some of that .010" to come back once a normal pushrod is in place.


pattern .187 shim .052 wide.jpg
 
gregcon said:
I made a try with DyKem, it did show a drop in width, down to about .052".

As an aside, I carefully checked valve lift versus lobe lift, etc. There is right at .030" 'lost' between the lobe and the valve. .020" of that is lash, and the other .010" I assume is flex. But, I am using the checking pushrods and they have a small diameter thread, so I would expect some of that .010" to come back once a normal pushrod is in place.


View attachment 1715639565
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That looks pretty good.
 
I talked to T&D and they are pretty adamant that the rocker tip start on the intake side of the valve. They recommended I move the rockers toward the intake side by about .035". So I'm going to do that and see how it looks.

I read those article on B3's site. Their approach is much the same as T&D's; I didn't see any differences. I will say the B3 stuff could be written a bit more clearly and concisely...but I guess they spent their time working on engines and not in English class lol.
 
After lots of measuring.....I determined that I need a lot of reduction in spring installed height. That's due to the fairly low lift (.650-ish) and long valves. I didn't want to use a bunch of shims so I made some @ .185" thick; there will be only the one shim and the spring locator under the valve spring. This will leave me with .070" spring bind clearance, which seems to be the optimal value for my setup.
spring seat shim.jpg
 
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gregcon said:
After lots of measuring.....I determined that I need a lot of reduction in spring installed height. That's due to the fairly low lift (.650-ish) and long valves. I didn't want to use a bunch of shims so I made some @ .185" thick; there will be only the one shim and the spring locator under the valve spring. This will leave me with .070" spring bind clearance, which seems to be the optimal value for my setup. View attachment 1715641214
Click to expand...


LOL you are a machining animal.
 
Lol. For the record, I asked the guy at Indy if I needed to worry about the shims being hardened....he said no need. And, since the shim will touch aluminum on one side, and the locator on the other, I am not concerned with wear rates like I might if the shim had the spring moving against it.

I would have preferred to use a spring cup with sides on it as a further way of restricting side to side movement of the spring...but there is no room for it. The springs are 1.56" diameter, the cups are 1.735" diameter, and the space within the head is probably 1.625" diameter.
 
Today's progress...pistons back from getting tops ceramic coated and skirts dry film lube coated. Also had them do the cam bearings while they were at it. PolyDyn is close to me so I'm able to drop stuff off without shipping. While I was there, Carl (the owner) showed me a coated piston from a NASCAR engine that had been run in a race... the interesting thing was the underside of the dome looked like fresh aluminum; no signs of heating or burned oil, etc. He claimed that's a result of the ceramic coating not letting the piston get as hot.
PolyDyn.jpg
 
gregcon said:
Today's progress...pistons back from getting tops ceramic coated and skirts dry film lube coated. Also had them do the cam bearings while they were at it. PolyDyn is close to me so I'm able to drop stuff off without shipping. While I was there, Carl (the owner) showed me a coated piston from a NASCAR engine that had been run in a race... the interesting thing was the underside of the dome looked like fresh aluminum; no signs of heating or burned oil, etc. He claimed that's a result of the ceramic coating not letting the piston get as hot. View attachment 1715647161
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Cost? If you don’t mind sharing.
 
Not pretty. Not including tax, it was $384 for the pistons and $29 for the bearings.
 
I would say that’s not too bad if it produces the results. I am always looking for way of reducing heat in the piston with boost. Seems like a no brainer if it works. I know coatings are all the rage right now.
 
I'm not experienced enough with them to know for myself if they work. I've spent a lot of money at PolyDyn but most of it has been on their Teflon coatings, and I use it to end up with a finish that stays clean and lasts. I really don't like the Krylon approach that looks good for 6 months then looks crummy.

With the short skirt of these pistons, I felt the Dry Film would help prevent scuffing.

They also sell their TX7 goo-goo that is an oil enhancer. I had a local dirt track racer tell me he uses and it shows a 20 degree drop in differential temps. I've never used it though.
 
No pics yet, but I have on order the pushrods...I went with Manton this time. I sent them back my checking pushrods, which were sent overnight to the post office 2 miles from their shop in California, then they disappeared for a week, then arrived in to Boston, then took another week to get back to the post office in CA.

Anyway, the pushrods will be their Series 5, 3/8" x. 095" with 8620 steel, 210 degree 5/16" balls with holes for rocker oiling. Intake 8.550" and Exhaust 8.520". The added length on the intakes is due to the pushrods being 'laid over' by 3.5 degrees to clear the intake ports. The Series 5 is their high-end pushrod which is heat treated for added stiffness. Around $19 each.

I am not sure I agree with all of Manton's reasoning/theory...but I did have an interesting conversation with their tech guy on how the oil inside the pushrod can act as a damper (sort of a FluidDampr effect).

Also, should have the rotating goo-goo back tomorrow from balancing....I made sure the machine shop doesn't go too crazy on the balancing efforts by telling them not to do any material removal on the rods or pistons....if there is any appreciable difference, call me....
 
gregcon said:
No pics yet, but I have on order the pushrods...I went with Manton this time. I sent them back my checking pushrods, which were sent overnight to the post office 2 miles from their shop in California, then they disappeared for a week, then arrived in to Boston, then took another week to get back to the post office in CA.

Anyway, the pushrods will be their Series 5, 3/8" x. 095" with 8620 steel, 210 degree 5/16" balls with holes for rocker oiling. Intake 8.550" and Exhaust 8.520". The added length on the intakes is due to the pushrods being 'laid over' by 3.5 degrees to clear the intake ports. The Series 5 is their high-end pushrod which is heat treated for added stiffness. Around $19 each.

I am not sure I agree with all of Manton's reasoning/theory...but I did have an interesting conversation with their tech guy on how the oil inside the pushrod can act as a damper (sort of a FluidDampr effect).

Also, should have the rotating goo-goo back tomorrow from balancing....I made sure the machine shop doesn't go too crazy on the balancing efforts by telling them not to do any material removal on the rods or pistons....if there is any appreciable difference, call me....
Click to expand...

Welcome to the fabulous world of the usps.
 
"Diamond also offers coatings at time of order. IDK that when I ordered mine..."

I didn't know either but at $50 on 2010 dollars...I probably came out a little cheaper anyway. But if I had known, I woulda had Diamond do it. but then, my use of coating was really an afterthought, I hadn't planned on it at the time I ordered the pistons. I like to keep an element of calamity in everything I do, lol
 
justinp61 said:
Welcome to the fabulous world of the usps.
Click to expand...
Waiting almost a month now in a transaction here with OldKimmer. There at the post office as per the post office just sitting.... and sitting... and sitting...

Kim is looking into it ASAP as I asked for his help a few minutes ago.

What’s amazing.... is no one will be fired for this debacle!
 
This is the same USPS we were all assured can handle millions of votes without a hitch...
 
gregcon said:
"Diamond also offers coatings at time of order. IDK that when I ordered mine..."

I didn't know either but at $50 on 2010 dollars...I probably came out a little cheaper anyway. But if I had known, I woulda had Diamond do it. but then, my use of coating was really an afterthought, I hadn't planned on it at the time I ordered the pistons. I like to keep an element of calamity in everything I do, lol
Click to expand...
Mahle also offers a few different coatings on their pistons.
 
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