R3W7 Assembly

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yellow rose said:
I stopped using newsprint probably by 1989 or so. I use a dial indicator and set the gear lash at .003 and send it.

Still the BEST away to drive a cam. Gets me excited just looking at it. Need to go find the wife and give her the business.
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More than we really wanted to know. LOL
 
gregcon said:
Milodon's instruction sheet says if you go too tight on lash, the gear will run hot. They state .006"-.008" if you are checking it with a dial indicator after the fact. As always, real-world experience might be different.
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At .006 they made noise. At .003 they don’t. I also make sure there is pressurized oil on the gear train by drilling a hole in the GD mounting plate and I drill a Holley air bleed to .040ish and screw that into the plate.

That way, there is pressurized oil blowing into the timing cover and not I’m not relying on the oil mist floating around in there.
 
gregcon said:
The latest is after a lot of begging...I finally received the gear drive, which I was shamed into using by Yellow Rose....

These have been off the shelves for many months. I made several calls to the good people at Milodon and was sent one of the first three that came off the production floor. I think they will once again be available. The guy at Milodon told me "I don't know what's up but we've sold more SB Mopar gear drives this year so far than all of last year."

Heavy...6-7lbs. If the engine runs out of gas, the inertia will keep the cam spinning for at least a mile!

View attachment 1715697882
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I posted a " wanted" ad on FABO for a Milodon gear drive last fall and found four members with NIB drives. Not a bad place to shop!
 
Krooser said:
I posted a " wanted" ad on FABO for a Milodon gear drive last fall and found four members with NIB drives. Not a bad place to shop!
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Thats goes against my natural order. I pay full price, if I'm lucky, and sell at give away prices.
 
I installed the ATI damper to check for clearance against the timing chain cover. I've seen a number of guys welding and modifying the 'bump' to clear. Luckily...mine has good clearance. I think (?) this is because I ordered a damper that is not intended to maintain the stock pulley depth.
ATI timing.jpg
 
gregcon said:
I installed the ATI damper to check for clearance against the timing chain cover. I've seen a number of guys welding and modifying the 'bump' to clear. Luckily...mine has good clearance. I think (?) this is because I ordered a damper that is not intended to maintain the stock pulley depth. View attachment 1715705520
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has it been tightened down with the bolt and washer ?
 
No, but it's as deep as it will go.

I think when I ordered it, I told the guy at ATI I didn't care about pulley depth and he said this damper/hub was the best one to use. It's been long enough that I've forgotten exactly, but that's what I recall. ATI 918282E
 
gregcon said:
No, but it's as deep as it will go.

I think when I ordered it, I told the guy at ATI I didn't care about pulley depth and he said this damper/hub was the best one to use. It's been long enough that I've forgotten exactly, but that's what I recall. ATI 918282E
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It just slid on? Every aftermarket damper I've ever bought new needed to be honed to a light press fit. I don't remember the number now but there is a spec. If it were mine I'd call ATI and check.
 
I used the same 1 on my R3 426 taped it on with a block of wood then used the bolt to pull it up
R3ATI.jpg
 
It didn't slide on by hand, but I used an installer to press it on.
 
You got lucky with your dampener, I usually have a couple shims they sell around for clearance to the timing cover.
 
Opinions...?

I'm looking at bringing pressurized oil out through a .028" hole to oil the gear drive. I've come up with about 4 ways I could do this.

I can bring oil out of 'A' and spray it 90 degrees onto 'B'. But, that's not a great place due to the direction of rotation and centrifugal forces...it'll fling the oil all over and generally not where I want it to go.

I can bring the oil out 'A' and pipe it down to 'C' to feed the crank gear. This is good because oiling the crank/idler gear is spinning twice as fast as the cam gear. But, it still is counter to the direction of rotation and is not the best as far as centrifugal forces and my desire to feed the cam's thrust needle bearing with oil.

I can send oil from 'A' to 'D'...this will feed the oil into the gear mesh but a lot of oil will still fling off the gears.

My best solution so far is to bring oil out 'E' and aim it 90 degrees at the cam needle bearing. This will oil the bearing well, and I'm thinking the oil will then fling out until it hits the inside of the cam gear. If I drill some small holes at the bottom of the cam gear teeth, the oil will work its way out and lube the gear teeth.

Also, why did Milodon drill the gear plate with extra holes half-over the cam galleys? Did some year small blocks (or Hemis) need holes there?



Gear drive oil.jpg
gear drive oil plate.jpg
 
gregcon said:
Opinions...?

I'm looking at bringing pressurized oil out through a .028" hole to oil the gear drive. I've come up with about 4 ways I could do this.

I can bring oil out of 'A' and spray it 90 degrees onto 'B'. But, that's not a great place due to the direction of rotation and centrifugal forces...it'll fling the oil all over and generally not where I want it to go.

I can bring the oil out 'A' and pipe it down to 'C' to feed the crank gear. This is good because oiling the crank/idler gear is spinning twice as fast as the cam gear. But, it still is counter to the direction of rotation and is not the best as far as centrifugal forces and my desire to feed the cam's thrust needle bearing with oil.

I can send oil from 'A' to 'D'...this will feed the oil into the gear mesh but a lot of oil will still fling off the gears.

My best solution so far is to bring oil out 'E' and aim it 90 degrees at the cam needle bearing. This will oil the bearing well, and I'm thinking the oil will then fling out until it hits the inside of the cam gear. If I drill some small holes at the bottom of the cam gear teeth, the oil will work its way out and lube the gear teeth.

Also, why did Milodon drill the gear plate with extra holes half-over the cam galleys? Did some year small blocks (or Hemis) need holes there?



View attachment 1715707048 View attachment 1715707049
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I don't really have an opinion on your oiling the gears/cam, but maybe the holes in the plate are if you drilled the plugs behind the plate for pressurized oil so you don't have to drill the plate as well. Just a guess.
 
I have a BFN gear drive in the shop. I’ll look at it tomorrow and compare it to my I forget how old GD.

All I have ever done is drill a hole on the mounting plate where it covers the passenger side oil gallery, tapped it for 10-32 and screw a holley air bleed in there with about a .040 hole in it.

It doesn’t directly squirt oil on the gear train, but every time the holes in the cam gear line up the oil certainly blows straight through that hole and then it hits the back side of the timing cover. I have never seen any wear from lack of lubrication. In fact, my GD came off my last drag engine. So I bought this one in 1986 or 87. And it still has the OE thrust bearing and idler bearing.
 
I'm thinking the lifter galley uses a plug behind the plate...right? It's been a long time since I looked at one so I don't recall. But one thing's for sure....with this particular gear drive plate, something has to block the galley besides the plate.
 
gregcon said:
I'm thinking the lifter galley uses a plug behind the plate...right? It's been a long time since I looked at one so I don't recall. But one thing's for sure....with this particular gear drive plate, something has to block the galley besides the plate.
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Yep. That gear drive needs the plugs. So I know the GD I’m using (the old one) covers both holes completely. The new GD I will look at tomorrow.
 
Here's the end result...I tapped the lifter galley for 9/16-18 then made an 'oiler' that threads in. It has a 1/4" blind hole down the middle, and a .028" hole that comes in from the side to spray oil out onto the cam gear bearing. There's no great way to 'clock' this so I fitted it such that the spray hole is in the right position when the oiler is tightened in the hole, then the shoulder of the cam plate prevents it from backing out more than about 1/32 turn. No matter where it ends up on clocking, it will spray on the bearing. I drilled the spray hole at a slight angle so it sprays back into the bearing rather than hitting the cam gear itself.

I made it this way (one piece) so there are no parts that could come loose....if this piece ever makes its way out, I have bigger problems to worry about lol.



gear drive oiler.jpg
gear drive oiler in block.jpg
gear drive oiler installed.jpg
 
gregcon said:
Here's the end result...I tapped the lifter galley for 9/16-18 then made an 'oiler' that threads in. It has a 1/4" blind hole down the middle, and a .028" hole that comes in from the side to spray oil out onto the cam gear bearing. There's no great way to 'clock' this so I fitted it such that the spray hole is in the right position when the oiler is tightened in the hole, then the shoulder of the cam plate prevents it from backing out more than about 1/32 turn. No matter where it ends up on clocking, it will spray on the bearing. I drilled the spray hole at a slight angle so it sprays back into the bearing rather than hitting the cam gear itself.

I made it this way (one piece) so there are no parts that could come loose....if this piece ever makes its way out, I have bigger problems to worry about lol.



View attachment 1715710326 View attachment 1715710327 View attachment 1715710328
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Pretty nifty.
 
Here's the cam gear...I drilled 3 .062" holes (one every 120 degrees) to let some of the oil (hopefully) find its way via centrifugal force from the ID of the gear to the face of the teeth. I'm thinking the oil I spray at the bearing will then fling outwards until it hits the ID of the cam gear. I only used three holes because....the gear is wicked hard. I basically killed a carbide end mill ($15) for each hole so I decided three was the perfect number lol.

gear hole .jpg
 
I applaud your effort and like the oiling spigot. That should work very well and I'm likely to steal the idea. I am a bit of a novice on the these motors but not to the topic of oiling a myriad of industrial chain and gear drive systems. I think as long as you have a decent flow of oil onto the large gear, it will make its way out to the gear teeth and then around to the other gears in short order. And then around and around. It would essentially work as a flood lubricating system. Yeah, some gets flung off but chains and gears like this don't need a constant flow like a plain bearing on the crank does to maintain the fluid film.
 
gzig5 said:
I applaud your effort and like the oiling spigot. That should work very well and I'm likely to steal the idea. I am a bit of a novice on the these motors but not to the topic of oiling a myriad of industrial chain and gear drive systems. I think as long as you have a decent flow of oil onto the large gear, it will make its way out to the gear teeth and then around to the other gears in short order. And then around and around. It would essentially work as a flood lubricating system. Yeah, some gets flung off but chains and gears like this don't need a constant flow like a plain bearing on the crank does to maintain the fluid film.
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What about the Torrington bearing between the cam plate and the cam gear?? I’ve never hurt one. Yet. So it must be getting oil.
 
In my case, I sprayed the oil at the Torrington bearing not because I think it needs a constant bath of oil but because it's at the center of the works. I think the oil will distribute outward from there.

There's probably benefit in spraying oil at the lower gear, or the idler, since they're spinning the fastest. But that would require more parts and I felt that was not a good trade-off.
 
Ran a Milodon gear drive on a W5 motor for years, both street and strip, with no mods to oiling system. Zero issues.
It was done by Best machine, high quality Mopar shop.
I suspect none of that stuff needed done
 
About 75% of the stuff I do on engines doesn't need to be done. Actually, the entire engine doesn't qualify as a need....
 
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