Race wheel alignment questions.

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1967formulaS

1967formulaS

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Hi guys,
We got a new wheel alignment machine at work, it's a US built Hunter elite. It's pretty awesome, so I thought I would put my 67 barracuda up and see how it measures Up. I only string lined it up in my shed, so it was a good opportunity to check.
Anyway my car has a 440 -4speed dana 60 with 4.3 gears and 27x 10 rears and front runners. Also have fenderwell headers so I need as much neg caster as possible. Just wondering everyone's thoughts on a track setup with camber and toe.
 

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Why the heck do you want negative caster? Must handle like a shopping cart.

When I set a car up for the track, the driver is in the car the whole time. The front end is raised about 1 1/2" to 2" off of static ride height. I set it to as much Positive caster I can get, camber close to 0, 1/16" to an 1/8" toe in. The more extreme the car, the greater the chance the torch has to come out to get it where I want it.
 
Is your rear end as pigeon toed as it looks? That needs to be addressed as well.
 
Maybe run a smaller front tire and get the caster +3 to +5 degrees and I bet she will respond much better to steering input.
 
Yeah those fenderwell headers limit how much caster I can get. The tyres are just clearing at present. A smaller tyre would help, maybe use a 14" wheel on the front.
The rear is a bit off as well. I will have to see what is going on there as everything is new under there. Here are the rear specs.
 

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Interesting, never really thought it would be so tight it would limit the alignment. Smaller tire, move the pipes, move the k-frame forward, something. There is no way it can drive right like that. Negative caster is a drag racers enemy.
 
Diddle the length of the strut rods? There were some sort of adjustable ones, and someone on here pointed out that there was a change in their length. I never can remember which years are longer / shorter.
 
Not a drag racer at all, but positive camber and negative caster do not make for good handling regardless.

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