Racers look here to help a newbie -Thanks

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swifter

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So--If you had a choice when building a drag car from scratch would you use in the rear---1-Parrallel link----2-Triangulated link--3-Cal-track mono leaf set-up---Thanks looking forward to results--If someone wants to make this a poll be my guest,I have no idea how to do it--Steve
 
I guess there is no racers Here to help us???? I should have stated also this isn't your dream drag car but building on a budget---Thanks Steve
 
It depends on your complete combination and how fast you want to go. Many run in the 10's with Mopar Super Stock springs and a pinion snubber. Others run in the 9's with Cal Tracks. If you are running faster than that you need a tube frame car or at least back halfed with a 4 link or the like. I am no expert though. tmm
 
Sorry yea they are 4 links just different geometry's--I took for granted the racers would know what they were,Looking to build a 10 sec. 68 valiant-- Thanks Steve
 
LOL cow tracks?????? I take it that's Cal-tracks---Thanks
 
Since your talking rear suspensions and budgets, for long term durability, you may want to consider housing choices while you're at it. 10 oh's is approaching, a back braced/fabbed 8 3/4, Dana 60, or even 9" Ferd territory.
 
bOb shingler said:
I wouldn't put cow tracks on any thing, period.
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Why not? Whay would you make a blanket statement like that? Have you tried them?

Just because S/S springs work OK in some instances does not mean Caltracs won't. Just about every competitive NHRA stock eliminator car runs Calvert set ups which to me is an indication that they work pretty well. Those guys don't just throw parts at their cars, everything is gone over to the nth degree. If they were not beneficial in some way, they would have come and gone.

Theoretically the main advantage of the Calvert setup over springs is their adjustability. If you read up on them, racers say they help making launches consistent and can be tuned more easily for track conditions. Unless I'm mistaken, there is no way to adjust prelaod with regular springs except when you add or a remove a leaf. If your car is not going straight, you can adjust Caltracs pretty easily in the pits. Have fun messing with leaf springs between rounds.

Most successful S/S spring cars have the front spring sections clamped. Caltracs essentially do the same thing (stiffen front spring segment) but employ a more of a triangulated set up than just clamping a spring pack. Running the Calvert setup eliminates the need for a snubber. They're also a LOT lighter than regular springs and there is no disadvantage to removing unsprung weight in a race car.

Some of your choice might be dictated by the weight of the car. If it's anywhere near 3,000 lbs, Caltracs would be a good place to start for a 10 second ride. Anything lighter you might want to consider a more involved set up. Caltracs are probably the least complicated and cheapest of all the options you posted above. Get their shocks too (front and rear) a set of 6 cylinder torsion bars and you'll be at a good starting place.
 
The answer you're looking for isn't quite that simple.
There are simply too many variables you're leaving out. Sure you're looking at a 10-sec. car but is it going to be dual purpose? Are you running a specific class? How much horsepower? What type of trans? Do you plan on travelling or just staying at one or two local tracks? What is your track experience?
From what little you describe, I'd go with the Cal-Tracs simply due to cost, simplicity and proven record. Both ladder bars & 4-links have adjustibility but you may not have the experience to deal with variables they offer. Go to the track & find a racer that has a car similiar to what you have planned & ask questions. I'm sure you'll find dozens of cars you can use as a guide but ultimately it's up to you what you want to run & how involved you want to get.
 
1) you have to decide if you want to run a certain class with your car. x275,nmca,orsca, pro nostalga. and see what they allow for suspension's.
2) how knowlagable are you at tuning suspensions.
3) if just bracket racing at the local track go with a ladder bar with some good coilovers. very easy to setup and consistant
4) if its a dual purpose street / strip go with leaf spring or a triangulated 4bar with a antiroll bar, coilovers.
5) if all out race and you are willing to learn how to tune to your power level and track conditions go with a 4-link,antiroll bar, and double adjustable coilovers.

anyone of these rear suspensions are capable of getting you safely into the 5.00's in the 1/8 mile or the low 8's in the 1/4 mile

it just depends on how chassis savy you are at setting the car up and how consistant you want the car and how much MPH the car will run

a very good but dated book to read is a book by Dave Morgan.
you can also check these 2 websites out for some good tech info.
www.dragstuff.com
www.yellowbullet.com
 
mopwr2004a said:
1) you have to decide if you want to run a certain class with your car. x275,nmca,orsca, pro nostalga. and see what they allow for suspension's.
2) how knowlagable are you at tuning suspensions.
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Gotta think, if he is asking which style of suspension to put under a 10 second car, they're probably just starting out at that level. Caltracs would be a good place to start and would not involve any real fabrication ($$) like some of the link styles. You gotta wonder when you see a gutted, tubbed, 4 link, dedicated race car that 'only' goes in the tens. Why go to all the trouble?

And really, if you're running a car in X275, NMCA, 'Pro' anything etc., you probably have a pretty good handle on things already.

The cars' weight should be the determining factor. A 68 Valiant is going to be around 3,000 with a roll bar, depending on how gutted it is. May end up less. Do you need to put ladder bars under a car like that? Probably overkill. Once you're deep in the 9s, then you start thinking about that stuff, along with lowering the car etc.
 
Good question and good answers. I was going to ask a question along the same lines so this was a perfect thread for me. Thanks all!
 
rmchrgr said:
Why not? Whay would you make a blanket statement like that? Have you tried them?

Just because S/S springs work OK in some instances does not mean Caltracs won't. Just about every competitive NHRA stock eliminator car runs Calvert set ups which to me is an indication that they work pretty well. Those guys don't just throw parts at their cars, everything is gone over to the nth degree. If they were not beneficial in some way, they would have come and gone.

Theoretically the main advantage of the Calvert setup over springs is their adjustability. If you read up on them, racers say they help making launches consistent and can be tuned more easily for track conditions. Unless I'm mistaken, there is no way to adjust prelaod with regular springs except when you add or a remove a leaf. If your car is not going straight, you can adjust Caltracs pretty easily in the pits. Have fun messing with leaf springs between rounds.

Most successful S/S spring cars have the front spring sections clamped. Caltracs essentially do the same thing (stiffen front spring segment) but employ a more of a triangulated set up than just clamping a spring pack. Running the Calvert setup eliminates the need for a snubber. They're also a LOT lighter than regular springs and there is no disadvantage to removing unsprung weight in a race car.

Some of your choice might be dictated by the weight of the car. If it's anywhere near 3,000 lbs, Caltracs would be a good place to start for a 10 second ride. Anything lighter you might want to consider a more involved set up. Caltracs are probably the least complicated and cheapest of all the options you posted above. Get their shocks too (front and rear) a set of 6 cylinder torsion bars and you'll be at a good starting place.
Click to expand...

So, have YOU tried them? I have....

Like I have said in many other posts on this subject, if you can hook fine without them, then they probably won't help you pick up anything. I would save your money to see if you can get it working without. If you don't want to try tuning the stock suspension, then sure, drop a grand on the full setup...but you might be able to save yourself 1000 bucks with a little tuning....and yes, some cars work great with them. Since they are and easy install, I would hold off till you see how the car works.

For what its worth, my car has run the fastest 60' with original stock springs (not Super Stock), snubber, CE shocks front (90/10) and rear (50/50).....if you can get the car to transfer weight (get the front end loose) and stick, you're good.

To the OP, sure, if starting from scratch (with plenty of scratch) stick a ladder bar or 4 link in it and be done. Better to overdue it for future upgrades then have to go back and redo things....JMO.
 
all right THANK YOU ALL and keep them coming I know this will help MANY people in the position I'm in at the moment--I should clarify we have a gutted 68 Valiant--It will be a dedicated strip car-NO STREET-We have 3 others for that-We are just in the planning stages right now and want to move forward this winter--Engine will be a stroked 426 5.7 Hemi with a drag pack intake and carb,Car is unbelievable super solid-Just had it at the frame shop to check all the stock frame measurements and the report came back that is is straighter than most the cars they do alignments on these days ,So we have a great base at which to start,I know roll cage,mini-tub,will have a HDK k-frame Maybe just picked one up from Denny but don't know if I need it on this car,but I'm stuck with all the rear end options out there,Trying to get a plan in place to move forward so ANY advice is helping--Thanks Guy's Steve a.k.a. Swifter
 
remember 10 sec car you need a cage or they will throw you off the track and send you home

other expenditures also.... drive shaft loop, extinguisher, battery cut off switch, etc.

then you are going to need a good set of slicks. with wheels for them. then to get wide enough you will need to relocate / mini tub

lots of stuff to think about.

ideal rear suspension to me for a 3000 pound car would be dana 60 with mini spool probably 4.56:1 cow tracks or ss springs either or if it's done right. springs moved inboard to frame rails. subframe connectors. remember your front suspension has to be set up too for the right amount of movement.

best bet: find a couple of local racers, hang out and learn. there is a lot to know ;)
 
flyfish said:
So, have YOU tried them? I have.....
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I have them on my car though I admit I just installed them and have no direct experience with them yet. I researched it a lot before I went ahead and got them and I was convinced that they were going to benefit my combo. I am confident I have a decent grasp on why they work. Take that for whatever it's worth.

Before I made the change, my Duster had S/S springs and a snubber that were installed by one of the previous owners. It launched hard but not always straight and I felt like it may have been unloading the left rear tire at the hit.

Whoever was 'tuning' them before I got it 'adjusted prelaod' by adding an extra shock plate thing under the original one that had spacers and stacks of washers over the bottoms of the u bolts to separate them. I think it may have been to level it out some but I can't be totally sure. To me, this was a band aid fix for whatever they were experiencing. I figured there had to be a better way, so I got the Caltracs. I suppose we'll see how it goes sometime next year when I get the car back together.

The difference in weight was also pretty significant. Plus, it can be installed in a few hours.

Again, I believe they will be right for the O.P. intended goals. Obviously its his choice and I'm not here to argue about which system is better but IMO the Calvert setup is a pretty typical set up for this type of application (10 sec. car, 3,00lbs)

I would say for the time being to stay away from anything that reinvents the wheel (ladder bar) and go for the better mousetrap (Caltracs).
 
if you are building a drag car from scratch and want to go into the 9's or lower at some point spend the money now and build a tube chassic car. by the time you spend all the money upgrading your current chassic you will almost be there.
If you are going to run on a budget follow the advice above. I you want to change the front end or back half the car it is easier to do it all at one time with a full frame.
 
A body's are different than B & E body's, which they seem to work better on because of a longer front segment of the springs & a better instant center. READ the post I started "The truth about cal tracs" They may work for some but as I stated mine worked better on 40 year old stock springs with slapper bars! I talked recently with a chassis builder & he said they work well on 8-9 sec trans brake cars but ify on anything slower & foot brakeing! His suggestion to me was , put my stuff back in the car & if it goes back where it was Toss the caltracs and demand a refund!!! Then go ladder bars !!! I only lost 75 lbs. off my car when I went to caltracs & monoleafs. 75 lbs off the rear is really no benefit unless its a tube car! 75 off the front is a hugh difference!! . Just my opinion. As far as the car pulling to one side on launch, get some good adjustable shocks & tune with them.
 
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