Radiator/Engine temp questions

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i think it could potentially be in the tune. i went from 1/2 - 3/4 gauge reading down to 1/4-half gauge reading with a recurve dizzy new carbs and a better exhaust tuned up right.

Or a problem with the stat or cap

Or not necessarily the cap, the lugs on the cap and the filler spout profile have to hold the cap down tight. bend the tangs if need be.

or the wrong cap. there are two common spring lengths on caps for mopar radiators
and the short spring cap on a long filler spout causes overheat Cap may say 7lb or 16 lb. that means nothing if the spring is too short, it won't seal the system. its like running with no cap on, no pressure in the system causes boiling in the head and you will run hot and the hood will be damp above the cap.

Dave
I found some seepage at the radiator inlet. Purchased a new one. I’m going to tune the carb and check the timing as well.
 
I already mentioned it in this thread: the t'stat. If the engine has a 195 stat, then your numbers are good.....& nothing to worry about. The temp is never going to be below about 195-200 if the engine has a 195 stat. Radiator out of a Mack truck will not lower the temp.

So you need to check what stat is in the engine before spending $$$$.
 
I already mentioned it in this thread: the t'stat. If the engine has a 195 stat, then your numbers are good.....& nothing to worry about. The temp is never going to be below about 195-200 if the engine has a 195 stat. Radiator out of a Mack truck will not lower the temp.

So you need to check what stat is in the engine before spending $$$$.
I talked to the mechanic who worked on the car he said it’s a 180 t stat and that he take the previous owner to install a new radiator and a fan shroud so I’m going to give it a shot. The current radiator is seeping coolant
 
ya need a shroud that will allow the use of a good 18" fan. (mancini sells one) put both of those on and it should cool things down if the rad is in geed shape.
 
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