Radiator/Engine temp questions

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Dave999 said:
i think it could potentially be in the tune. i went from 1/2 - 3/4 gauge reading down to 1/4-half gauge reading with a recurve dizzy new carbs and a better exhaust tuned up right.

Or a problem with the stat or cap

Or not necessarily the cap, the lugs on the cap and the filler spout profile have to hold the cap down tight. bend the tangs if need be.

or the wrong cap. there are two common spring lengths on caps for mopar radiators
and the short spring cap on a long filler spout causes overheat Cap may say 7lb or 16 lb. that means nothing if the spring is too short, it won't seal the system. its like running with no cap on, no pressure in the system causes boiling in the head and you will run hot and the hood will be damp above the cap.

Dave
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I found some seepage at the radiator inlet. Purchased a new one. I’m going to tune the carb and check the timing as well.
 
I already mentioned it in this thread: the t'stat. If the engine has a 195 stat, then your numbers are good.....& nothing to worry about. The temp is never going to be below about 195-200 if the engine has a 195 stat. Radiator out of a Mack truck will not lower the temp.

So you need to check what stat is in the engine before spending $$$$.
 
Bewy said:
I already mentioned it in this thread: the t'stat. If the engine has a 195 stat, then your numbers are good.....& nothing to worry about. The temp is never going to be below about 195-200 if the engine has a 195 stat. Radiator out of a Mack truck will not lower the temp.

So you need to check what stat is in the engine before spending $$$$.
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I talked to the mechanic who worked on the car he said it’s a 180 t stat and that he take the previous owner to install a new radiator and a fan shroud so I’m going to give it a shot. The current radiator is seeping coolant
 
ya need a shroud that will allow the use of a good 18" fan. (mancini sells one) put both of those on and it should cool things down if the rad is in geed shape.
 
In 1976, I rebuilt my 340 for fuel economy due to the crude embargos and middle east tensions (sound familiar?). I used a 318 cam and stock compression (10.25:1), an SP2P manifold and really tuned the AVS for best fuel economy. I went to a 4 core OEM radiator and electric fan to replace the direct drive fan (no fan clutch).
I drove from Irvine where I was a grad student to Tucson in June for a chemical conference and took my brother with me (10 years younger). It was 117°F in Tucson and the combination ran at 180-185 cruising and the fan came on at 195°F climbing hills. This was really nice except for it being a black Formula S FB with no AC. Drank lots of lemonade during the drive. But the combo got 22-24 mpg with 2.94 gears. Cannot complain about that.
I had to be up early for the conference, but my brother took it racing every night and never lost. Must have been week competition in Tucson.
Still have that '68 as you can see in my photo.
 
SFBay‘72Duster said:
What I meant to say my upper radiator hose was hot and my bottom hose was ambient temp.
I have only had a Dodge Dart with a 318 so I’m only familiar with that stock set up. My Duster has a 360 so I’m learning on the fly. So i appreciate u guys
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Double check those heater hoses. If they arent both Hot, hot, hot, then you have a plugged Heater core. Thats what happened to my 72 Dumpster :thumbsup:

Unhook both hoses & put a garden hose up to the input hose, crank up the water pressure & see what happens. Once I evacuated all the **** that was in the core, all hoses were equal temp afterwards, & my 318 was around 195-200° all day long with a 180° thermostat, with no fan shroud.
 
Alright after closer inspection I believe my water pump is leaking at the gasket. I have a 360 engine not sure which one it is but, my inlet hose is at the bottom of the water pump. Will a water pump from a 340 work? Hers a pic. Thanks

IMG_2085.jpeg
 
SFBay‘72Duster said:
Alright after closer inspection I believe my water pump is leaking at the gasket. I have a 360 engine not sure which one it is but, my inlet hose is at the bottom of the water pump. Will a water pump from a 340 work? Hers a pic. Thanks
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that's a standard 360 waterpump. any one from a passenger car or truck/van will work from 1971 on up. it is the same as 1970 and up 318 as well.

a waterpump for a 68 or 69 340 will not work for your application, the pump inlet is on the wrong side.

where on the pump/gasket is it leaking? because of the attachment and how the assembly is designed the timing cover is part of the configuration, and if that is damaged or corroded you'll need to repair or replace it in order to get the unit to seal up.
 
Keep in mind that the 70+ WP is 3/4" longer than the 69- pump, so pullies and alternator alignment are all different.
 
Blainethemono said:
Double check those heater hoses. If they arent both Hot, hot, hot, then you have a plugged Heater core. Thats what happened to my 72 Dumpster :thumbsup:

Unhook both hoses & put a garden hose up to the input hose, crank up the water pressure & see what happens. Once I evacuated all the **** that was in the core, all hoses were equal temp afterwards, & my 318 was around 195-200° all day long with a 180° thermostat, with no fan shroud.
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junkyardhero said:
that's a standard 360 waterpump. any one from a passenger car or truck/van will work from 1971 on up. it is the same as 1970 and up 318 as well.

a waterpump for a 68 or 69 340 will not work for your application, the pump inlet is on the wrong side.

where on the pump/gasket is it leaking? because of the attachment and how the assembly is designed the timing cover is part of the configuration, and if that is damaged or corroded you'll need to repair or replace it in order to get the unit to seal up.
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Thank u. Didn’t think about that. That might be it based on the location of the leak. Plus I can’t find a leak at the water pump. Think I’m going to pressure test to confirm. It’s been 15 years since I had an old skool so I forgot about the timing cover.
 
thank u. I don’t know that. Thought is was just the location of the wp inlet and outlet. Had a ‘74 Dart but it was stock so I was easier to look up for parts. Learning is hard. Haha
 
Well, when you take the Radiator out, you will have plenty of room to work on the Water Pump and Fan. Is coolant coming out of the weep hole on the Pump? Make sure you have a Manual to guide you on the Pump change. After you drain the Coolant, put a 180 degree thermostat in there. Then do the pump and check the (correct) fan size, and get the proper Shroud.
 
oh, and i forgot to mention earlier, you'd do well to adios that flex fan a get a heavy duty factory style fan with a thermal clutch.

but one problem at a time and all that...
 
"While you're doing it" might as well go with a FlowKooler pump. Made a world of difference in my car. I'm sold on them.
 
On my 340, draining the radiator allows access to the manifold fittings w/o leaking, but draining the block is required to access the timing chain cover if that needs replacing. The block drain plugs are most likely frozen in place so take the lower bolts off the TC cover and water will drain from the block. These bolts go through to the water jacket, so they need thread sealant when re-assembling the system.
As said earlier, so much easier without the radiator in place.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
And a high flow thermostat like one from Steward Components. The high flow of the Flowkooler needs a high flow thermostat.
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Yup or else there's no sense having a high flow water pump. It cannot flow its potential through a standard flow thermostat.
 
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