Radiator/Engine temp questions

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SFBay‘72Duster

SFBay‘72Duster

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Hello looking for some info/ suggestions. I have a ‘72 Duster with a 360 in it. the engine temp ranges from 200-210 degrees which seems high to me but I’ve been told that’s normal.

I have what I was told is a rebuilt stock radiator with no fan shroud. I know I need the fan shroud but I’m thinking of getting an aluminum radiator. Any insight to the type, size radiator I should purchase? Thanks!

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if you have an infrared gun (they are cheap at harbor freight) , Check the inlet hose and the outlet hose. what is the difference in temp?
 
Too high for my liking for any type of performance engine. Just personal preference. I'm sure some will argue. Let um have at it. lol
 
If you have a 195 thermostat, a 200* temp could be normal. Often the issue is flow too low from a too small diameter thermostat. Look at the Stewart/EMP thermostats. No shroud = overheating in slow traffic or parades.
 
The thermostat is a good idea for sure. I’ll get a temp gun too.
Im wondering if my radiator is too small. Maybe it’s for a 318 or 340 only?
 
SFBay‘72Duster said:
The thermostat is a good idea for sure. I’ll get a temp gun too.
Im wondering if my radiator is too small. Maybe it’s for a 318 or 340 only?
Click to expand...
Who knows? Maybe get the dimensions and post them, including how many fins per inch and how many flues and how big they are. That'll tell the story real quick.
 
So my bottom hose was cold and my top hose was hot. Extremely noticeable difference. Temp was between 190 and 200 at idle. Didn’t get a chance to get a temp gun but there was
 
Cold and hot are subjectively ambiguous .
You are looking for a temperature difference from top to bottom tanks NOT rubber hoses. Some say you need 50 degrees.
I run 30* which works fine. But I admit, my alloy heads radiate a lot of heat, even with multiple coats of hugger-Orange on them, lol.

If you are running hot at speed, an aluminum rad may not solve your perceived problem. My rad is from a 1973 Dart Swinger 318 with A/C . it's doing a fine job in the original slanty core support.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Cold and hot are subjectively ambiguous .
You are looking for a temperature difference from top to bottom tanks NOT rubber hoses. Some say you need 50 degrees.
I run 30* which works fine. But I admit, my alloy heads radiate a lot of heat, even with multiple coats of hugger-Orange on them, lol.

If you are running hot at speed, an aluminum rad may not solve your perceived problem. My rad is from a 1973 Dart Swinger 318 with A/C . it's doing a fine job in the original slanty core support.
Click to expand...
 
What I meant to say my upper radiator hose was hot and my bottom hose was ambient temp.
I have only had a Dodge Dart with a 318 so I’m only familiar with that stock set up. My Duster has a 360 so I’m learning on the fly. So i appreciate u guys
 
Personally I would not go for an aluminum radiator.

The OEM / OEM style copper brass will be your best choice.

Radiators can be made for standard cooling, HD cooling etc

It's all in the tub size, number of tubes, and fins per inch (RRR mentioned this)

The only place heat is transfered is at the contact points between fins and tubes, the more contact points (ie surface area) the more heat that can be transfered.

As pointed out before, if you have a 195 thermostat 200 to 210 might be normal.


My engine (Stock 67 273 2 BBL) runs hotter at 75 mph then I would like. At 65 it comes down to normal.

I have tried water wetter, made no difference.

I tried high flow thermostat, made no difference

I have a few more things to try.

Good luck
 
If you have a 195 stat, & the engine runs at 200-210, then that would be normal......& nothing to worry about.....
The stat opens at 195.
If the temp never goes higher than 210, then spend the money somewhere else.
 
if you think that the engine runs too hot, put a hi flow 180 degree thermostat in. If the temp comes down to 180 to 190 then you know that the rest of the cooling system is working fine.
 
When you get that infrared temp gun (which I think everyone should own) check your temperature at the intake manifold where the sender screws in. I had a crappy gauge telling me that I was running hot and that was not the case. :BangHead:
 
A really too wide temp difference can be a symptom of a semi-clogged radiator. A hot 360 with good compression and big cam will run hotter than a 318. Maybe nothing wrong?
 
If you're concerned about your temperature, install a FlowKooler water pump. If you still have issues, then you should look at a new radiator.

Like others have noted, 200⁰ is not really hot when running a 195⁰ stat. 210 is getting up there though!
 
SFBay‘72Duster said:
The thermostat is a good idea for sure. I’ll get a temp gun too.
Im wondering if my radiator is too small. Maybe it’s for a 318 or 340 only?
Click to expand...
all the V8's used the same radiator, cars with tow package, heavy duty police/taxi and AC got radiators with extra capacity. but, regardless of that your radiator should do the job just fine.

the widely different temp suggest that you may have a clogged up radiator. but because there are many different components to the cooling system this leaves a lot of variables to be considered.

things i would not do:
>buy a cheap *** aluminum radiator
>buy an expensive waterpump
>start swapping parts out whole sale.

things i would do:
>buy an IR gun
>test the thermostat or replace it
>run a radiator flush thru the system
>check the pulley diameters and calculated the waterpump ratio.
>ascertain that the pump is in correct working order
>check the timing-- too advanced or retarded can cause overheating
>check the fan to radiator distance, check the clutch if you have one
>install a shroud
 
After some more inspection I decided to purchase a radiator.

Has anybody purchased the Summit universal fan shroud kit? I’m having trouble deciding on the size. I know I’m going to use height of the radiator core but, I’m thinking I should use the width of the entire radiator since the mounts are on the side. Any insight would be appreciated.
 
i think it could potentially be in the tune. i went from 1/2 - 3/4 gauge reading down to 1/4-half gauge reading with a recurve dizzy new carbs and a better exhaust tuned up right.

Or a problem with the stat or cap

Or not necessarily the cap, the lugs on the cap and the filler spout profile have to hold the cap down tight. bend the tangs if need be.

or the wrong cap. there are two common spring lengths on caps for mopar radiators
and the short spring cap on a long filler spout causes overheat Cap may say 7lb or 16 lb. that means nothing if the spring is too short, it won't seal the system. its like running with no cap on, no pressure in the system causes boiling in the head and you will run hot and the hood will be damp above the cap.

Dave
 
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