Rallye Dash Removal Help

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Chained_360

Chained_360

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Hi everyone,

I'm currently removing the dash from my '68 Barracuda (Non AC, non center console) for the first time, and to put it lightly... I'm learning. So far I have dropped the steering column, removed the hazard switch, light switch, and wiper switch, unbolted the radio, and removed all the screws from the bezel face except for one. The screw above the wiper switch seems to be stripped out and isn't coming out even though it spins, so I'm assuming the clip behind it is broken off. I haven't disconnected the speedometer cable yet because the pedal box is in the way, I'm planning on removing it from the front once the bezel comes out more.

The current problem I'm having is that the bezel seems to be stuck right around the cigarette lighter. I can wiggle the cluster out a little bit by the gauge side of things, but the side next to the glovebox/cigarette lighter is not budging at all. What am I missing? Any tips or tricks?

I also have not disconnected the heater control cables from the switches as I cannot reach where they connect behind the dash and frankly, I don't know how they disconnect in the first place.
 
Are you trying to remove the entire dash metal frame left to right or just the instrument cluster?

Have you disconnected the ammeter wires?
 
Dana67Dart said:
Are you trying to remove the entire dash metal frame left to right or just the instrument cluster?

Have you disconnected the ammeter wires?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I should have specified. I'm just trying to pull the cluster out of the frame. I haven't disconnected the ammeter wires or any of the gauges yet. The cluster is stuck on the rightmost side but I'll disconnect the gauges!
 
First thing..... disconnect the battery if there is one.

I found out the hard way when I was younger
 
My 70 Dart with ralley dash was hard to remove also, you have to remove lighter assembly. Dash is held in place on that end by it. Have to reach under dash and unthread lighter apart. Part of lighter you can see is threaded into back half.
 
Yes on the cigarette lighter. Have you removed the radio or just "unbolted" it? Remove for more room. Hazard switch can remain. Unscrew speedo cable now. You can undo wiring and ammeter now but the FSM says to pull the cluster partially out and then unhook the Hazard wiring, circuit board 8-pin, small circuit board 3-pin and ammeter wiring.At this point the three heater control cables can be released by unhooking the three retainer clips.
 
Got the cigarette lighter out! I also pulled the radio all the way out, I missed a bolt. Just disconnected the speedo cable, now I have to figure out how these plastic clips on the heater cables disconnect without breaking them.
 
I just did this (remove the instrument panel) but on 67. I basically followed the shop manual, plus some tips mentioned by Redfish in some older threads. On 67 there are 2 screws holding the heater controls to the panel. Removing those freed up the panel's right side. Difficult to access. I used a mirror and a flashlight to confirm the location and and then the usual when accessing blind stuff.

Not sure if the 68 shop manual has a detailed removal. If not look in 67.
One item that is not mentioned is the ground wire from the IVR capaciter to the radio support backet. Disconnect that at the support bracket.

One thing I did a little diffferent from the manual steps is disconnecting what I could while the panel was still attached to the dash.
Just seemed like it would be easier for everything I could access.

upload_2020-4-2_8-32-23.png


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Heater control attachment - 1967
upload_2020-4-2_8-37-13.png


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Ring terminal on dark red wire is ground attached at the IVR capacitor. Easier to disconnect it at the radio support as I wrote above.
(non-factory speaker and red jumper wire)
 
Tape up the steering column, bottom dash pad, and metal dash surfaces to avoid scratching them. 68 is a little harder with the bottom dash pad - one year only.
 
Take one screw out at the fuse box and it will move out of its bracket. Push the button to release the stem of headlight switch. Remove its switch bezel nut and it will drop out of the way. Now you have space to put your arm in and release the speedometer cable.
Post above shows 67 climate controller. It has the left screw placed in between fan switch and sliders. 68 and later has that screw moved out to left side of fan switch.
 
Heater cable clips are metal and "unhook" easily. Other option is to remove whole unit with two small hex heads screws and remove the two chrome knobs w/allen stews.
 
Thanks so much everyone! I got the cluster out last night, I ended up insulting the heater controls from the cluster. I only broke one pin on the circuit board, hopefully it'll solder back on nicely. Thanks again!
 
I got everything put back together yesterday, and it took about 40 minutes. Once you know where eveything goes it's much easier! I did manage to swap the coolant and oil pressure gauge in the cluster somehow, probably because it was 2am when I reassembled it, but neither of them were that helpful anyway. I'll just have to fix it later. Thanks again for all the help everyone!
 
Chained_360 said:
I got everything put back together yesterday, and it took about 40 minutes. Once you know where eveything goes it's much easier! I did manage to swap the coolant and oil pressure gauge in the cluster somehow, probably because it was 2am when I reassembled it, but neither of them were that helpful anyway. I'll just have to fix it later. Thanks again for all the help everyone!
Click to expand...
If you know how to remove wire terminals from bulkhead connectors in engine bay, you could switch the locations of violet and gray.
 
RedFish said:
If you know how to remove wire terminals from bulkhead connectors in engine bay, you could switch the locations of violet and gray.
Click to expand...
I did not know that. I'll have to take a look! I've never done a bulkhead connector but I think mine is in decent shape. Thanks!
 
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