Rallye Dash Resto
- Thread starter Dartswinger70
- Start date
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Well the mecanical part of relocating the climate controls was no big deal...
I wont chop of the original until I'm sure it's not needed in sterio support.
The cosmetic part will be a challenge. Already emailed MrGs' to inquire, "Deos super glue or 2 part epoxy conflict with the stripping / plating process ?"
Thanks again for the inspiration.
I wont chop of the original until I'm sure it's not needed in sterio support.
The cosmetic part will be a challenge. Already emailed MrGs' to inquire, "Deos super glue or 2 part epoxy conflict with the stripping / plating process ?"
Thanks again for the inspiration.
keith9291
Well-Known Member
I have some work done by Glen also. He is a super nice guy that does superb work at a reasonable price. Here is one before and after pic of my cuda dash.
before
after (sorry took pic still in plastic)
The end piece got broken off during transit to me here is a pic before it was shipped and after I got it. Then I will post the pic after Gcar fixed it.
You cant even tell it was ever broke!!
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
These are expensive, but are direct replacements. Pictures look great. http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=39&products_id=478
I've ordered some parts from them. So far the quality has been good. I do use my C. C. just in case. I ASSUME it is complete.
I've ordered some parts from them. So far the quality has been good. I do use my C. C. just in case. I ASSUME it is complete.
They sure dont offer any details there. Year model correct ?
A/c panels also available ?
:violent1: for them.
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Yeah, anybody interested need to call them to see EXACTLY what's offered. Their 69 Barracuda pictured taillights is uncorrect I just got the red lenses. The bezel inside the lens is extra $, it's shown in the lens.
The guy at MrGs' has been very helpfull. I've learned I'll need the variable temp type plastic welder and ABS rods. He is aware of those reproduction bezels and agreed they dont solve the sterio delima in these cars. Afterall if there is room for a sterio and /or nav system in a Honda we should have ample space.
Got to wonder how many of those repop bezels will get butchered someday.
Anyway my relocation of the heat controls (previous post) is goona work and the push button a/c unit is even easier to relocate having only one cable.
Whatever sterio I use will probably be supported from the speaker mountings above. Haven't got that far yet.
If anyone has extra pot metal gauge housings laying around , dont toss them . We might need them.
Got to wonder how many of those repop bezels will get butchered someday.
Anyway my relocation of the heat controls (previous post) is goona work and the push button a/c unit is even easier to relocate having only one cable.
Whatever sterio I use will probably be supported from the speaker mountings above. Haven't got that far yet.
If anyone has extra pot metal gauge housings laying around , dont toss them . We might need them.
Moparsky
Well-Known Member
RedFish, I know this is a bit off topicm but "speakering" of stereos, I ran across this post from the MOPARTS forum about a guy building stereo center dash speaker mounts, take a look at his product. A nice way to have stereo sound up front without cutting kick panesl or door panels...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...+dash++speaker&topic=&Search=true#Post3682444
Regarding the radio itself; (forgine me, you may already know about this) I know it is very expensive, but ole Mopars radios can be rebuilt with modern AM,FM & CD Charger ctl internals & then you could keep your OEM
radio opening in the bezel
My 2 Cents...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...+dash++speaker&topic=&Search=true#Post3682444
Regarding the radio itself; (forgine me, you may already know about this) I know it is very expensive, but ole Mopars radios can be rebuilt with modern AM,FM & CD Charger ctl internals & then you could keep your OEM
radio opening in the bezel
My 2 Cents...
Yeah I'm aware of the mods done to the OEM radio housings but consider... the cd just reached it 25th birthday. Today we have sattelite radio , mp3/mp4 digital, navagation, and blue tooth, and who knows whats next.
My goal is to take advantage of all that wasted space between the factory radio location and speaker grille. Their heater control really was "Lost In Space".
Besides with covering materials like wood grain, carbon fiber laminates and such , the butchering of the plastic itself can look like crap (most does) and be repeated time and again.
Maybe someone will address the die cutting of various materials for covering the upper panel sections. Only available today is the 68 up linier wood grain. I had to do my 67 burlwood by hand.
Not all my ideas are good ideas but I'm quite proud of a few of them.
My goal is to take advantage of all that wasted space between the factory radio location and speaker grille. Their heater control really was "Lost In Space".
Besides with covering materials like wood grain, carbon fiber laminates and such , the butchering of the plastic itself can look like crap (most does) and be repeated time and again.
Maybe someone will address the die cutting of various materials for covering the upper panel sections. Only available today is the 68 up linier wood grain. I had to do my 67 burlwood by hand.
Not all my ideas are good ideas but I'm quite proud of a few of them.
Mecanical portion of my mod all done. took several pics as I proceeded. Detailed instructions, measurements, tools needed, etc.. to be written later today.
"Space... the final frontier" would be a suitable project title LOL
My source of professional advise says soak the plastic bezel parts in Wesleys bleech-white tire cleaner 1 to 3 days to strip/clean, so thats where I stand.
"Space... the final frontier" would be a suitable project title LOL
My source of professional advise says soak the plastic bezel parts in Wesleys bleech-white tire cleaner 1 to 3 days to strip/clean, so thats where I stand.
Jons340Dart
Well-Known Member
Here's another option - brand new - no core required....
http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?cPath=63&products_id=478
$425 from New Brunswick - PG Classic
I'm thinking about it and one fellow I talked to was pleased with his repro
http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?cPath=63&products_id=478
$425 from New Brunswick - PG Classic
I'm thinking about it and one fellow I talked to was pleased with his repro
luckymopar416
Well-Known Member
Yeah I've been waiting for about 6 months now everytime I talk to them on the phone they tell me there almost ready .
Their killing me :scratch:
lead69
hopeless car junkie
Hopefully they will make them for the duster before I need to do mine.
It's been a few days so just incase anyone is interested...
The plastic bezel altering is a time consuming chore. I have the little pieces preparing but still need to strip the beel itself.
I stepped away from this and rebuilt the box type steering coupling in my neighbors van. Since he works for the county water system I went to the barter system when he offered to pay me. "I need a piece of 8 inch PVC pipe 3 feet long and a cap for it (goona be the soak sink for the bezel)". So yesterday I recieved those pieces and guess what ? I forgot to say "a flat cap".
It aint gonna stand up on the dome type cap he brought to me. DOH !
Good news is I can drop 2 bezels in there at once, fill it to about 20" deep with chemicals and soak half at a time and the dome type cap is now designated the lid.
Again I apologise for highjacking this thread.
The plastic bezel altering is a time consuming chore. I have the little pieces preparing but still need to strip the beel itself.
I stepped away from this and rebuilt the box type steering coupling in my neighbors van. Since he works for the county water system I went to the barter system when he offered to pay me. "I need a piece of 8 inch PVC pipe 3 feet long and a cap for it (goona be the soak sink for the bezel)". So yesterday I recieved those pieces and guess what ? I forgot to say "a flat cap".
It aint gonna stand up on the dome type cap he brought to me. DOH !
Good news is I can drop 2 bezels in there at once, fill it to about 20" deep with chemicals and soak half at a time and the dome type cap is now designated the lid.
Again I apologise for highjacking this thread.
71produster
Well-Known Member
Found this on craigslist I restore Dash bezels for older Mopar cars, 64 - 65, 67 - 69 Barracuda, 66-70 Charger, 70 Roadrunner, and 62-63 Fury. All parts are professionally rechromed and top coated. I then detail them by hand with a high quality automotive paint, excellent for a very durable finish. I can usually have parts finished in about 3 to 5 weeks depending on my workload at that time. Prices range from about $175 to $500 depending on the type of car and which parts are involved.
Please see http://detroit.craigslist.org/pts/455734430.html to see pics.
Please see http://detroit.craigslist.org/pts/455734430.html to see pics.
68340fish
Well-Known Member
I'm in the same boat as you in dealing with PG Classic#-o. I bought new tailight lenses from one of their Ebay auctions & was very happy with the quality & fast shipping, so after looking through the catalog they sent with the lenses, I purchased numerous items totaling almost $1100.00. That was almost 2 months ago. The first time I called they said the dash bezel wasn't ready yet, but should be done next week, that was 3 weeks ago & still nothing:bs: I should have just sent mine out for rechroming!!
73roadrunner
Hoover Mover
cv vaccum platers in Canada did mine, fixed hack job on radio opening as well.
OK here I go again.
I found a new product (link in a different thread). Chrome in a can ?
http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome.htm
Yeah it's a 3 can kit actually. Aint cheap either but compaired to the cost of our other options it just may be worth a try.
What I'm thinking is if I were to plan on using that product on my project bezel with heat controls relocated, I could go ahead and use super glue, epoxy, whatever, to attach the pieces and fill the voids. To have seen this product a couple weeks ago would have saved me the cost of a plastic welder kit (57.00).
the one thing that those rechroming services offer that worries me is the detail painting of the switch lettering, etc...
I'll asume once these "killer cans" are opened the product should be exhausted as it wont shelf for reuse. So it's pennywise to accumulate several pieces to do at once.
Should I be the ginnea pig here ? your thoughts appreciated
I found a new product (link in a different thread). Chrome in a can ?
http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome.htm
Yeah it's a 3 can kit actually. Aint cheap either but compaired to the cost of our other options it just may be worth a try.
What I'm thinking is if I were to plan on using that product on my project bezel with heat controls relocated, I could go ahead and use super glue, epoxy, whatever, to attach the pieces and fill the voids. To have seen this product a couple weeks ago would have saved me the cost of a plastic welder kit (57.00).
the one thing that those rechroming services offer that worries me is the detail painting of the switch lettering, etc...
I'll asume once these "killer cans" are opened the product should be exhausted as it wont shelf for reuse. So it's pennywise to accumulate several pieces to do at once.
Should I be the ginnea pig here ? your thoughts appreciated
russduanegreen
Well-Known Member
I sold mine,just the bezel, on ebay. I got around $160 for it. I'm buying a repop one from PG classics for $425. cheeper in the long run
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
OK guys I will eventually have to restore my Rallye dash and all this info is great.
But the question I have (since most you have already done this) is what's the best way of removing it? I know that I need to undo all of the electrical, speedo,etc,etc.. but do I need to drop the steering column? Just by looking it seems it would make things easier. Screws that are hiding from line of view that I wouldn't know about?
Any info would be appreciated since I don't want to tear anything up. LOL!
But the question I have (since most you have already done this) is what's the best way of removing it? I know that I need to undo all of the electrical, speedo,etc,etc.. but do I need to drop the steering column? Just by looking it seems it would make things easier. Screws that are hiding from line of view that I wouldn't know about?
Any info would be appreciated since I don't want to tear anything up. LOL!
Glow Worm
"Not Your Grandmaw's 318"
I stripped my dash plastic using Castrol Super Clean degreaser. I made a box out of wood and lined it with a plastic trash bag. Let the dash soak overnight and use a tooth brush and warm water to clean off the old plating. I primed and painted the dash semi-gloss black. Then I masked off the surround for the gauges, controls, and the upper section. I sprayed the "chrome" areas with DupliColor chrome. While it looks OK, it's much cheaper than the $300 re-chroming cost. As for the mention of using the modeling foil I wouldn't trust it over time as it will probably loosen up over time with the heat. Not to mention at several dollars a sheet it will probably cost you $60 or better for the foil!
If your restoring your car for serious judging in stock classes, go with the plating. If your building a Hot Rod or street fighter, paint it.
I also lost the radio opening and did a photo-reverse image for the white gauge faces. The bottom is trimmed in faux carbon fiber.
This might be the best advice. Unless your building a 100 point car, I'd paint it. I painted mine with a nice silver flake, and filled in all of the grooves with gloss black. I'm happy with it. Only the MOPAR experts will know the difference anyway. Make yourself happy, and piss on everyone else.
Hey guys, this might be off subject a little bit, but how do remove the dash without breaking anything? Is there screws/bolts in the back of the dash? Do you have to remove the steering wheel to get the dash out? Thanks for the help
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I asked about the same question yesterday and didn't get much feedback. Check post #46 above. I did a search and found out that you indeed need to drop the steering column to make it easier. I wouldn't remove it if I could help it but just dropping it down.
Nice Cuda. I like the white stripes!
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