famous bob
mopar misfit
the s.s. springs were -are arched more on the pass side because the rear end tries to lift on hard acceleration.
did that work out ?
Rear Axle Position.
- Thread starter SSing
- Start date
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Yes/No. It'll work on my buddy's original 340 duster, but not on the same year Dart Swinger. There was over a 3.5 inch difference in clearance between the 8.75 in the duster and the duster's gas tank vs the 8.75 in the dart and it's gas tank. The only thing I could think of is the wheel base of the duster being 108 inches vs that of the 111 inches of the dart swinger.
cannucky
The Guy With No Birthday
thats why I suggested creating a squared area with string lines to measure from .If you have a rack or beam lift then great all the power to ya but for the rest of us we need a quatafiable reference point to do out measuring from . In my case both side were toed in and the wheel centre to wheel centre front to back was 1" different on the two sided of the car which led to me investigating the issue .
Resurrecting an older discussion here... but I am wondering if anyone has tried using adjustable lowering blocks as a way of dialing in alignment of the rear axle housing? The version in the link below appears to offer a large amount of adjustment, far more then ever needed. Although I'm not a big fan of the lowering blocks due to causing other alignment and leverage issues, this concept looks interesting for tweaking the alignment. If offered in a 3/4" steel version I might try them.
Speedway Adjustable Pin Racing Leaf Spring Lowering Blocks
Speedway Adjustable Pin Racing Leaf Spring Lowering Blocks
SSing
Well-Known Member
Yes, not a bad idea. Agree, but it might be possible to cut of half an inch or even more off of the block?
Thanks for posting.
I've thought of enlarging the spring perch and installing an eccentric bushing or just welding it up and re-drilling it.
SSing
Well-Known Member
Yes re-drilling was my initial idea to, but to be able to fine tune both sides with car on wheels and ready to go and everything would be perfect...
Anyhow this calls for two days of measuring before welder comes near the rear end... at least that´s what I fell...
cannucky
The Guy With No Birthday
Shim block between the front spring mount and the frame it's bolted to worked just fine for mine , once you get it close you can fine tune it thin shims .
Shims are an option when using the factory bolted in spring mounts. However, in my case where repositioning mounts are welded to the frame to gain tire clarence, an adjustable lowering block is a nice option.
cannucky
The Guy With No Birthday
are you just moving them over 3/4 up against the frame or welding them under the frame ? if the latter I guess you will need to use something then , or slot the mount and bolt it through the slots until you find your happy point and weld away but I think your on a better track with the blocks .
Welding under the frame. I plan on putting in a mini tube next off season, so I might as well get one set step ahead.
cannucky
The Guy With No Birthday
cool did you see the job the guy did in the rear spring slider thread ? he put the front spring eye into the frame rail pretty slick looking .Your probably going to want the lowering block if you flip the perch 90 degrees and weld it to the underside so those adjustable blocks just might be the cats *** eh .
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