Rear end hot rim to rim...

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Rodzilla

Rodzilla

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So hot you can't hold hand on rims, housing or center case. It started howling on a 15 min trip. Pulled plug on diff and fluid was full enough to be dripping out. Brakes are wilwood disk and they are not locked up or dragging. Any ideas why so hot, sounds like noise from bearings maybe at axle ends, but I could be wrong.
 
Rodzilla said:
So hot you can't hold hand on rims, housing or center case. It started howling on a 15 min trip. Pulled plug on diff and fluid was full enough to be dripping out. Brakes are wilwood disk and they are not locked up or dragging. Any ideas why so hot, sounds like noise from bearings maybe at axle ends, but I could be wrong.
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And what rear end are we working on?
 
Tear it down, I seems that you will find a bad bearing or something rubbing to create that kind of heat.
 
Hard to believe both axle bearings took a dump at the same time. Could the pinion spacer/sleeve lost it's preload and the R&P be generating the heat?
 
OldmanRick said:
Hard to believe both axle bearings took a dump at the same time. Could the pinion spacer/sleeve lost it's preload and the R&P be generating the heat?
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I think you are in the right area here..... Guessing... It is an 8 3/4 and it is stacked too tight but since we are getting no information from the op who knows.
 
On a 15 min drive the heat should be from a tight bearing. A loose one will make noise and leak untill it crumbles and dies. Unless some was shot from the start.
 
OldmanRick said:
Hard to believe both axle bearings took a dump at the same time. Could the pinion spacer/sleeve lost it's preload and the R&P be generating the heat?
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I vote this.
Howling, hot end to end, yep
Likely carrier bearings allowing the misalignment.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Yeah, go figure, were trying to help him and he's not helping?
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Relax bud. Can't hover over FABO waiting for an answer. It's a weekend and I have a life besides cars. I appreciate everyone's help here though.
Thanks for your replys. Details are its an 8.75" rear with green bearing, pinion has crush sleeve eliminator so that's not it. No leaking at axle seals as of yet. Only 30 miles on car since total rebuild.
So far no answers that explain it, unless the bearings are about to pile up, but why they would would make no sense to me.
 
I could be off here, but would the green bearings have something to do with it. I have read a few posts that the green bearings are designed for 1/8-1/4 mile track use??
 
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=6039
This thread provides some clarification regarding the use of green bearings for street or track use.
 
4spdragtop said:
I could be off here, but would the green bearings have something to do with it. I have read a few posts that the green bearings are designed for 1/8-1/4 mile track use??
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They are designed to go straight. Like driving in a straight line. They are fine for street use.

I would not use them for auto cross or road racing. The car turning will generate side loads, thats what the Green bearings dont like.
 
Although I have alterKtion and street lynx under the car all cornering has been slow. Haven't hooked up sway bar or had alignment yet. And I'm just run pizza cutters up front. Zero cornering over 8 miles an ht. maybe it's break in. I changed diff fluid last night. It was very dark grey.
 
Did you use new ring an pinion? They do require a breakin period, they usually specify this in the setup directions.
 
Changing the gear lube is a good idea, along with the correct additive for the sure-grip. Also, I wouldn't use a synthetic just because of the way it will underperform when it is crushed between the gear teeth. Just something I heard along the way. I am in the process of an experiment to see if there is any merit in my statement. I do use synthetics for roller bearings.
 
bernieca said:
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=6039

This thread provides some clarification regarding the use of green bearings for street or track use.
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Makes me wonder why we continue to revisit the Green Bearing issue. Everyone please read the letter from the source, Bearing Technologies Ltd.
 
Rodzilla said:
Relax bud. Can't hover over FABO waiting for an answer. It's a weekend and I have a life besides cars. I appreciate everyone's help here though.
Thanks for your replys. Details are its an 8.75" rear with green bearing, pinion has crush sleeve eliminator so that's not it. No leaking at axle seals as of yet. Only 30 miles on car since total rebuild.
So far no answers that explain it, unless the bearings are about to pile up, but why they would would make no sense to me.
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Do you have after market axles? Was the thrust pin removed in the carrier? You can install some after market axles with the thrust pin in place, but when you tighten down the axle flanges, it creates undue axle pressure. This can cause excessive heat throughout the housing. JMO
 
Rodzilla said:
Relax bud. Can't hover over FABO waiting for an answer. It's a weekend and I have a life besides cars. I appreciate everyone's help here though.
Thanks for your replys. Details are its an 8.75" rear with green bearing, pinion has crush sleeve eliminator so that's not it. No leaking at axle seals as of yet. Only 30 miles on car since total rebuild.
So far no answers that explain it, unless the bearings are about to pile up, but why they would would make no sense to me.
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Who built the chunk/carrier/rearend? As I said before the carrier may be stacked too tight if it wasn't set up correctly. That would mean the too many or wrong shims were used and that is causing undo friction that then friction causes heat.

OldmanRick said:
Rodzilla said:
I changed diff fluid last night. It was very dark grey.

You may have to pull that chunk and recheck the setup?
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I think we are on the same page.
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Demon416 said:
Makes me wonder why we continue to revisit the Green Bearing issue. Everyone please read the letter from the source, Bearing Technologies Ltd.
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Cause some of us don't have time to read every post. I DO use search as often as possible but did not last night. Thanks for your useless comment.
For the other questions. I'm not running synthetic and I did have sure grip additive in. Professional built my rear end, restores Mopars for a living. He's a member here, ShowAndGoResto, builds lots and knows his crap. Will have him check it out.
For the complainers of my thread, sorry to waste your previous time. I usually don't rebutle to useless criticism but get a life. Add something productive or ignore the thread. Thanks.
 
Just a quick thought. Does the exhaust exit out of the main part of the car or does it exit in front of rear axle? If in front of rear axle does it have turn downs?
 
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