rear main leak
- Thread starter mopar373
- Start date
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Hey man - question for you on this. Since a PCV valve really cannot work at WOT (no vacuum at wot), could you also run the header evac system in addition to the tuneable pcv valve? Not sure how the plumbing could work in that scenario. I do drag and drives - so idle, cruise, AND WOT are places where I would like to vent crankcase pressure better.
famous bob
mopar misfit
running a vacuum is the answer to many oil leaks . I have my 2 vacuum ports on my 1200 cfm throttle body hooked up to a valve then to an oil catch devise , and to the pass side valve cover, the valve was an experiment to control how much vacuum I run , got it patially closed /running around 11 inches , and not sucking any oil , but have no leaks !
also run a pan evac set up on the drivers side cover ,it will help at hi exhaust flow / works for my 505'' fish...pic is before I installed it ...
Best not to mix and match like that. The Wagner unit will do a great job at keeping vacuum in the engine at all but WOT. Since no one runs WOT all the time, you are really dealing with idle & mid throttle issues with the PCV.
I'm going to start with the ME Wagner since it is the easiest install, and see what the improvement is. My car runs 10s - so wot is only at 10s intervals!
Be sure to look at the quality of the baffling under your valve cover. I had a set of M/T's that did little to nothing to stop oil being ingested by the PCV. I changed to another company's cast covers and it made a day & night difference. Just a heads up, but your issue sure sounds like the engine is building up pressure and causing your leaks. Hopefully the new PCV will alleviate that for 'ya!
Thanks man - my covers do have baffles under the breathers.
Yeah, mine did too, but they were inadequate! Just a heads up. After you install the PCV and run the car, pull the PCV hose from the carb and look to see if you have any oil in the hose. Before I changed the covers I had quite a bit!
Shoot - ok. Which covers did you end up going to?
I got the covers from Ansen, but they are currently sold out of the black/finned finish. Think they still have the polished ones though. I would not get any different covers unless you have a baffle/splash problem... or you just want to change the covers.
www.ansenvalvecovers.com
Mopar Performance 383, 400, 440 Cal Custom Style Finned Valve Covers - Black
This is a set of Mopar Performance 383, 400 440, Cal Custom Style valve covers with all fin styling and a black powder coat finish. These covers include baffles installed. Ansen Valve Covers are built from high-grade die-cast aluminum and proudly made in the USA.
www.ansenvalvecovers.com
Makes sense - that is an easy thing to test once i get the PCV valve installed.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
You can and should be running something other than just a PCV valve.
Bill Jenkins was running both in the early 1970’s.
It’s how I do my engine. ME Wagner PCV valve and pan evacs.
I run mufflers.
You need something for WOT.
I’d make sure to use an air/oil separator between the PCV valve and the carb.
Bill Jenkins was running both in the early 1970’s.
It’s how I do my engine. ME Wagner PCV valve and pan evacs.
I run mufflers.
You need something for WOT.
I’d make sure to use an air/oil separator between the PCV valve and the carb.
Any chance you could napkin sketch how you have the plumbing for running both types of systems? I know how to do them separately, but curious how that plumbing works when combined. Breathers on one side of the engine, pcv on the other? Or are you venting on the valley pan or somewhere else? Do the little valves on the pan evac lines keep them from being open when not at wot? I could also pop a connection point into my fuel pump block off plate if necessary.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
It’s pretty simple. I do not hook them together. It’s two separate systems.
So run a PCV valve to one valve cover and then a pan evacuate to each valve cover.
Do not use any breathers. It needs to be a sealed system to work and a breather will just let outside air into the system and you lose your crank case pressure drop.
So it plumbs just like two different systems.
For the separator, the hose from the PCV valve goes to the IN on the separator and the OUT goes to the carb.
OK - the no breather makes sense then. Appreciate the help.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Regarding rear main seal- put a little grease on crank journal and then put the plate with seal back on and torque it down. Take it back off and see if the seal is making contact with the crank journal. If not, then you need to remove metal evenly off the metal seal holder. I have seen as much as .040" needed to be removed in order for the seal to make contact. There is actually a mopar youtuber that just had this issue on a recent vid- Junkerup chris birdsong- towards end of video
The rear seal mention is at 1:55:21
Is it possible to do the rear seal as discussed in the video with the engine still in the car? I just put my engine in and just hate the thought of pulling it out again.
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