Khorn72
New Member
Do i have to take the tranny off to fix this?! Or can i work around it somehow?!?
Rear Main Seal leak on my 72 dodge dart
- Thread starter Khorn72
- Start date
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1wild&crazyguy
Banned
You dont have to remove the trans.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Sneaky Pete. YOu can get the lower out with the cap, the upper needs to be rolled out or pulled out with a Sneaky Pete
Gator
Mopar or No Car
My friend, before you go ripping things apart because you think your rear main my be leaking, seriously look over the entire area. I also thought I had a rear main leaking and was told by many mopar finatics that it is unheard of any SB rear mains leaking. Well 1st off I found my sending unit had a small leak so I swapped it out with a new one and still had some oil dropping on the garage floor :banghead: so I wiped the oil pan down and started the car, crawled underneath and saw no oil coming out from the rear main. Shut it down and was looking at my oil pan and noticed a small drop of oil in one spot.. Hmmm I said.. Well come to find out I had a small pin hole in my pan and with 80# oil psi , well need say no more... For a quick fix I cleaned the area up, sanded it down and then put some good ole JB Underwater Weld on it, let it sit for a day, refilled with oil
rayer:and I have no more oil dropping's under my car. Good luck to you and hope it is not your rear main seal..
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Sneaky Pete. YOu can get the lower out with the cap, the upper needs to be rolled out or pulled out with a Sneaky Pete
This won't help because he said tranny rear leak.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Just confirm that it's the rear main. Check real good for rr. intake seal, valve covers, even distributor flange. R & R the main seal is the last thing you want to do if you don't have to. And no...trans. can stay. Phista's tool may really help if you have to go there. Good luck, Rick
P.S. i assumed it was a V8 since you posted here.
And welcome to the site
P.S. i assumed it was a V8 since you posted here.
And welcome to the site
I had the same problem.
I took off the rear-main cap and inspected the surface of the cap and block. Put yourself in the engineering mindset and strive for an ultra flat mating surface(I stared at mine for a few minutes). If you look close enough you might find extremely minor "burrs" or extruding peices of cast iron, especially on the edges. File them down very carefully with the intentions of achieving an extremely flat mating surface to the upper cap.
Also use rtv clear insted of rtv black or grey.
Inspect that cap closely and the mating surface. Take your time and try experimental locations to put that sealant along with the service manual locations.Try to imagine the oil at pressure and where it will be attemtping to seep into. clean all surfaces with mineral spirits or the like.
I offset my seals.
Do not worry so much about the sealent in the engine, you have a filter and it shouldn't be a great amount if you apply it right- wipe the remaining off before installing the pan.
Use spray adhesive to keep the cork in place and try to buy a better quality gasket than cork. I used racing gaskets from Dvorak machine in Gainesville, FL. He might also walk you through this process and supply you with everything you need, as he did for me over the phone.
I blew my seal on the way back from a show, tried this new method and it has been running leak free for a thousand plus miles and a trip at the track. Hope this helps.
I took off the rear-main cap and inspected the surface of the cap and block. Put yourself in the engineering mindset and strive for an ultra flat mating surface(I stared at mine for a few minutes). If you look close enough you might find extremely minor "burrs" or extruding peices of cast iron, especially on the edges. File them down very carefully with the intentions of achieving an extremely flat mating surface to the upper cap.
Also use rtv clear insted of rtv black or grey.
Inspect that cap closely and the mating surface. Take your time and try experimental locations to put that sealant along with the service manual locations.Try to imagine the oil at pressure and where it will be attemtping to seep into. clean all surfaces with mineral spirits or the like.
I offset my seals.
Do not worry so much about the sealent in the engine, you have a filter and it shouldn't be a great amount if you apply it right- wipe the remaining off before installing the pan.
Use spray adhesive to keep the cork in place and try to buy a better quality gasket than cork. I used racing gaskets from Dvorak machine in Gainesville, FL. He might also walk you through this process and supply you with everything you need, as he did for me over the phone.
I blew my seal on the way back from a show, tried this new method and it has been running leak free for a thousand plus miles and a trip at the track. Hope this helps.
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
You dont use rtv clear, you use preferably-Ultra black...if not that...you can use copper
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