Recommended coolant type

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Jax

Jax

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I am running a small block mopar with super comp aluminum heads.

Looking to use the recommended coolant. Have heard that some type of coolant does damage aluminum heads.
I just would like to use the appropriate stuff.
 
Use Evans, it saved one of my engines, when the thermostat stuck. It is well worth the extra money. I will not use anything else in a special car.
 
Steven190 said:
Use Evans, it saved one of my engines, when the thermostat stuck. It is well worth the extra money. I will not use anything else in a special car.
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Thank you guys... have read somewhere that they recommend to use regular water where ambient temperatures don't reach freezing points.
What is your input on this?
 
Regular water does not have anti corrosion additives so absolutely should be avoided for use more than a few weeks at most IMHO.

Evans is a high quality propylene glycol, so it can be used without any water. Its cooling properties are not quite as good as a water/anti-freeze mix; Evans makes no bones about this point.

For cost effectiveness, a 50-50 AF/water mix is still a good buy.

As for corrosion and other problems, 2 things are likely:
  • Old AF loses its anti-corrosion additives after several years. If not changed out, that will cause AL corrosion. If the AF is kept refreshed, then there will be no AL corrosion problems.
  • Dexcool will 'gunk' up if any air is entrained in the coolant. This can be caused by boiling, from running a non-pressurized system or just too hot too often, or from cavitation from water pumps or other design matters in the cooling system that promote cavitation.
IIRC, every engine mfr already has re-designed engines these days to avoid cavitation problems so they can run Dexcool-like AF. This is to get to 10 year changeout intervals with a Dexcool/water mix.
 
The one thing about the Evan is that the boiling point is higher than the anti-freeze. It is used with NO water at all. If the system is new and dry, just add it, If it has water in it, you need to flush it with their flush.
 
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Steven190 said:
The one thing about the Evan is that the boiling point is higher than the anti-freeze. It is used with NO water at all. If the system is new and dray, just add it, If it has water in it, you need to flush it with their flush.
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Personally, I don't want any higher temps., 50/50 or a little weaker in the summer, and 50/50 in the winter, along w/ alum. protector of some sort.
As a sidenote, I drove a 2002 dodge quadcab, for 15 yrs. w/ the same antifreeze in it, never had any problems w/ that truck, except front wheel bearings, and had to put a cheap ebay radiator in it because the plastic to alum. seam started leaking. Always had to add a little for winter tho.
 
For a system with soldered copper radiator or heater, the best protection package is in the traditional coolant. It is generally sold here (US) as Conventional Green. Do not confuse it with "Universal" Green, which is a HOAT. HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology.

Yes you can run water, but with an anti-corrosion additive package and water pump lubricant. Check with the manufacturer for the best type of water to go with their product. Justice Bros is one of several companies with such products. @autoxcuda can tell you more about what they offer.

The glycols themselves do not add protection, and in fact can be more aggressive than plain water. All manufacturers including Evans, have anti-corrosion packages in their products. Copper and solder haven't been a concern for the newer OAT and HOAT protected antifreezes for obvious reasons.

One advantage of the inorganic corrosion inhibitors is that it provides protection almost immediately. On an open or partially open cooling system (drip tube or catch can) the top of the radiator is exposed to air every time the engine cools. Another advantage to using conventional green with a copper radiator.
 
Great stuff guys.
My set up us 3 inch aluminum radiator, CSR electrical water pump, intake neck filler with radiator cap and catch can.

Of course running aluminum heads. I live and we run the car in Aruba where all year long is approx. 92 degrees fahrenheit.
What do you recommend me to use as coolant?
 
I'd look into something like Redline's Water Wetter for water with slightly better cooling properties and corrosion inhibitor. Definately need a corrosion inhibitor.
I would not use any of Evans products in your case because if you need more you will have to order it.
See what racers (road, drag, sprint) use in your area. That way you know its available.

Also reconfigure the catch can so it sucks the coolant back into the radiator as the engine cools down.
Basically you need three things:
1. A recovery type radiator cap,
2. Hose from the radiator filler neck to the bottom of the recovery tank.
3. Open hose connection at the top of the recovery tank for venting and emergency overflow.
 
Jax said:
Great stuff guys.
My set up us 3 inch aluminum radiator, CSR electrical water pump, intake neck filler with radiator cap and catch can.

Of course running aluminum heads. I live and we run the car in Aruba where all year long is approx. 92 degrees fahrenheit.
What do you recommend me to use as coolant?
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Like I said...use the Evans and don't look back. There is zero magic in coolants. None. Just like engine oils. Some are better than others and some are significantly better than others.

If you are worried about keeping the engine temp under control, forget the electric water pump. I don't know what a 3 inch radiator is, but use the biggest radiator that will fit your core support and use the biggest tubes you can get. 1 inch tubes are ok, 1.25 are good and 1.5 is great but you are going to pay for the bigger tunes.

More tunes is NOT better. Again, not a fan of electric water pumps and fans if cooling is a priority. Use a quality mechanical water pump like the Milodon and fan with a Stewart Components high flow thermostat.

Then, make double damn sure your water pump turns faster than the crank by at least 6% and more is better (to a point).

If you do that, you won't have cooling issues. No coolant will fix piss poor planning (not that your planning is piss poor, it's just that guys think there is always a magic elixir out there to cure all ills).
 
Check your Ph often try to keep it neutral around 7.0
 
Honestly I've used the Orielly Auto brand 50/50 pre mix. Simple, cheap, available anywhere. It's in my 408 aluminum headed stroker, aluminum radiator.
 
Aruba is a Dutch territory in the Carribean off the coast of South America.
 
The problem with adding water is the tap water has things in it that aren’t good and will corrode aluminum. The proper water to use is “heavy water” and that isn’t always available. I have had good experiences with simple 50/50 premixed coolant.
I know there is better. Or so that manufacturer says.....
 
I run orange dexcool in most of my stuff but have recently switched to toyota antifrieeze in a few things which is a blue/purple color. I've never had any issues with the dexcool, just wanted to try the toya fluid as I've run into some prop touring guys that can't say enough good things about it.

Have to dissagee with YR here. Electric fans are superior and while i've run them, I don't prefer electric pumps. I don't think they are worth the money. i'd us one on a race car but for street, a mechanical pump will suffice. I will say the only thing I've ever had fail was a mechanical pump because they didn't tack the impeller to the shaft.
 
famous bob said:
Personally, I don't want any higher temps., 50/50 or a little weaker in the summer, and 50/50 in the winter, along w/ alum. protector of some sort.
As a sidenote, I drove a 2002 dodge quadcab, for 15 yrs. w/ the same antifreeze in it, never had any problems w/ that truck, except front wheel bearings, and had to put a cheap ebay radiator in it because the plastic to alum. seam started leaking. Always had to add a little for winter tho.
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The car does not run hotter, It is the fact that if something happens , you have the protection that it can get higher temps than the antifreeze can and still not harm the fluid or engine
 
Steven190 said:
The car does not run hotter, It is the fact that if something happens , you have the protection that it can get higher temps than the antifreeze can and still not harm the fluid or engine
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I`m not going to try it due to the cost. How do they feel about it on the dragstrip/ They sure don`t like antifreeze !
 
I too don't have to worry about freezing temperatures. My car only comes out on nice days and it is garage keep so it never gets below freezing.
So here's how to keep it simple keep it cheap. One $10 bottle of Redline water wetter and four 1 gallon jugs of distilled water from the supermarket for under a dollar each.
The water wetter is your lubricant and anti-corrosive and obviously distilled water keeps the minerals and bad contaminants out of the system. I didn't mean to cyber spend $14 for you but I'm sure it's better than most and we'll get the job done better than anything mentioned. Or you could follow the Yellow Rose and spend money. Just wait till he tells you how much the oil he uses cost.
 
Don't most cars come from the factory with aluminum heads and aluminum radiators?? What do they use? And would this be considered by manufactures such as Prestone, Peak, or other brands that can be picked up at Walmart, or a local parts store??

I think this is over-thought......
 
Use the green stuff and put an anode in the cooling system for potential "electrolysis" issues that can swiftly advance corrsion.
 
Nowadays there is no longer agreement amongst manufacturers, hence they each have come up with slightly different answers and that's why there are so many versions and colors. Most use closed systems and have no copper or solder in them.

Jax is in Aruba, a Dutch island near Venezuala.
IMO his best choices will be products that do not need to be specially imported.
A locally available corrosion inhibiter and lube product along with the appropriate water (distilled or whatever is recommended) would be sufficient.
 
I use Saab or Volvo coolant in all my motorcycles it is the best coolant of all the coolants I have found and haven't seen any corrosion in the 15 years I've been using it, make sure it's the blue stuff, and use distilled or DI water.
 
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