MoparOrNokar
HammerTime
Im currently relocating battery to the trunk. My question is, is 6 gauge wire enough to run to the relay from that distance?
relocating battery
- Thread starter MoparOrNokar
- Start date
-
salinasjoel
Learning Daily
I would go at least 2 AWG
mguner
How many is too many?
What relay? Can't you just run it off the positive starter? No need to have more than your one big cable running the length of the car.
relay?.....to the starter relay or what?
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/interior/sucp-1111-battery-location-junk-in-the-trunk/ - yea, it's a "chevy" page - but the kit is universal - and it does point you toward an aftermarket kit.. are you building a street machine or a race car?
Run a 2 or I suggest 1 ga. from the battery or C/O switch to the starter terminal than run a 4ga from the same starter terminal to the starter relay.
rod7515
Well-Known Member
Just an fyi, the least expensive place i found for 2 gauge wire was summit and i bought a battery kit minus box for $85. Just came on friday, one day delivery. It was a 25' with ends plus a negitive wire as well.
Rod
Rod
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
perfect. I swear by Summit. ..interestingly enough, the story I posted a link to ends with
Sources
Summit Racing
Akron, OH
800-230-3030
SummitRacing.com
Sources
Summit Racing
Akron, OH
800-230-3030
SummitRacing.com
salinasjoel
Learning Daily
i got 2 AWG on amazon for 65.00 for 50ft
Longroof
Active Member
I have always gotten my wire from the welding supply... finer strand carries current better and be ds easier. And usually cheaper too. Go with 1 or 2 guage at the smallest.
MoparOrNokar
HammerTime
I have 2 gauge for the main but im talking the smaller power that hooks from battery to starter relay. Or can i just link off the big side of the starter up to the relay instead of running the whole length again
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
whoa - hit the brakes... only the main wire (from battery) goes to the starter relay...
Do it right the first time!
This would be NHRA legal with a push switch routed to the outside rear of the car. It kills everything including the alternator, so the only electrical power when the switch is off is in the trunk. It's a nice thing to have anyway, as it allows you to turn power off to the entire car easily for storage or theft protection. And if you ever get the urge to go to the track, you'll need it to pass a safety inspection if they're following NHRA standards.
Here's a list of the parts I used...
cut-off switch
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
continuous duty relay
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74107/overview/
relocation kit from summit with hold down and all heavy duty cables. Pretty much everything, I think I bought another short cable for the relay in the engine compartment.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/
This would be NHRA legal with a push switch routed to the outside rear of the car. It kills everything including the alternator, so the only electrical power when the switch is off is in the trunk. It's a nice thing to have anyway, as it allows you to turn power off to the entire car easily for storage or theft protection. And if you ever get the urge to go to the track, you'll need it to pass a safety inspection if they're following NHRA standards.
Here's a list of the parts I used...
cut-off switch
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
continuous duty relay
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74107/overview/
relocation kit from summit with hold down and all heavy duty cables. Pretty much everything, I think I bought another short cable for the relay in the engine compartment.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/
salinasjoel
Learning Daily
I get what you are saying. you are wanting to know what wire to take to the starter itself? I ran 4 AWG from the relay to the starter
Thanks, I printed this out and I'm following it to the tee a few weeks ago. I couldn't find it to give to the OP.
Do it right the first time!
This would be NHRA legal with a push switch routed to the outside rear of the car. It kills everything including the alternator, so the only electrical power when the switch is off is in the trunk. It's a nice thing to have anyway, as it allows you to turn power off to the entire car easily for storage or theft protection. And if you ever get the urge to go to the track, you'll need it to pass a safety inspection if they're following NHRA standards.
Here's a list of the parts I used...
cut-off switch
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
continuous duty relay
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74107/overview/
relocation kit from summit with hold down and all heavy duty cables. Pretty much everything, I think I bought another short cable for the relay in the engine compartment.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/
This is what I did, 1 gauge wire to a cut off switch, from the switch I then ran the wire on the inside across the back seat and then up the drives side (same as the factory did) out the firewall through floor plug to the starter. Next 1 gauge wire from the starter terminal up to the starter relay. The reason for the cutoff switch is I like to kill the power when not in use, like at home, car shows, cruise nights and it makes it harder to steal the car too. I also installed a 1 gauge wire from my transmission to the car frame, you can not have enough grounds. The car starts just as good when I had the battery up front.
mguner
How many is too many?
1 gauge to the starter relay? Why? The relay only energizes the solenoid part of the starter. The internal contacts of the starter run the motor.
you are correct. I just had some left over 1 gauge wire, why not use it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The problem is, from your description, some of us have no idea what you are thinking
There is more than one way to skin a cat
I myself see no reason to have a rear mount starter relay with a huge cable just to run the starter.
If you do this, you'll need an actual STARTER relay, like a Ford. The problem with Ford per se is there is no easy way to incorporate the original Mopar neutral safety, if you are automatic, or have a clutch safety switch.
In that case, you'll either need to leave the original Mopar relay in place, and use it to operate the Ford start relay in the rear.........
or use a later Jeep/ AMC starter relay which looks like a Ford but has one more (5 total) terminals. This was in fact used in these with Torqueflite transmissions
=========================================
BUT I DON'T do it that way.
I simply run one big huge hot cable to the front, and it's hot all the time the car runs. If this is run carefully and protected, no reason it can't be safe..........After all there ARE factory cars, and have been for many many years with rear mount batteries.
If you do it that way, you'll need to run the main cable either to the starter or to the starter relay, and then run a jumper lead between the two. If you run the main to the starter, you only need say no6 up to the relay. If you run the main to the relay, you need a big cable to run the starter between the relay and starter.
PLEASE do yourself a favor and find a good quality heavy duty 4 terminal (properly know as a 2 pole switch) and wire the small terminals to either kill the ignition, or alternator field.
If you have MSD ignition or EFI this is easy.
Lots of ways to do this. Some safer than others. I use a Ford style starter relay and CD relay to kill the alternator line. Nothing is hot outside a 2' cube around the battery in my cars. I don't like running any starter loads through the cutoff switch, don't care what the load rating is on the switch.
I build 1/0 battery cables using welding cable and other things for doing this. Pick a way to do it and go with it.
Anyone that complains about the extra weight of any wire in my cars doesn't see the safety aspect of the design. The extra wire in my cars is about 6 pounds... totally insignificant.
Only good thing about summit is the free shipping. Not sure where the wire they supply is coming from. I only use US built wire if I can help it.
I build 1/0 battery cables using welding cable and other things for doing this. Pick a way to do it and go with it.
Anyone that complains about the extra weight of any wire in my cars doesn't see the safety aspect of the design. The extra wire in my cars is about 6 pounds... totally insignificant.
Only good thing about summit is the free shipping. Not sure where the wire they supply is coming from. I only use US built wire if I can help it.
MoparOrNokar
HammerTime
Ok guys. Sorry for the stupidity. This is my first time hooking all this stuff up. Its been a year since i tore it down. Here is a pic of the woring diagram that i have. It has main cable to starter and another wire to the relay and back out to the bulkhead connector. Looking at it now though i see how that wouldnt shut down the bulkhead connector. Im completely lost now and feel like an idiot lol. Thanks for the help guys. I will pick one of the above and follow that.
This is my way of doing it.
Here is another using a Starter Relay that will pass tech but isn't as safe.
This is bottom of the barrel and passes tech at the track.
Here is another using a Starter Relay that will pass tech but isn't as safe.
This is bottom of the barrel and passes tech at the track.
rod7515
Well-Known Member
Crackedback, Ive never seen that first diagram before. When I originally started thinking about this the diagram that I saw was your 2nd one. The only difference I see is the addition of the cd solenoid in the alt to battery wire? Where do you place your Cd solenoid from this diagram? In the trunk? That seems as a better way for me to follow with what I already have.
Thanks Rod
Thanks Rod
Rod
Simple compact set up. Looks busy, very simple. CD relay up top
In the line running from the starter relay to cutoff switch, I put a 60amp maxi fuse. That protects the rest of the circuits on that side of cutoff switch.
Simple compact set up. Looks busy, very simple. CD relay up top
In the line running from the starter relay to cutoff switch, I put a 60amp maxi fuse. That protects the rest of the circuits on that side of cutoff switch.
-
