Relocating of the Neutral Safety Switch

-
Pawned

Pawned

N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Messages
1,607
Reaction score
187
Location
Valle del Sol, AZ
I am in the process of eliminating the NSS on my Duster. After all I have been thru with it, it still leaks and the reverse lights do not always turn on.
Before I start, the picture of the switches are just under the ignition key on the steering column. I just finished setting them up and used hot glue so I have not yet put them in permanently. I will pretty it up before I am finally finished.
This is an extremely simple circuit. I am using 3 Magnetic Cylindrical Plastic Sealed Reed Proximity Switches with a small rare earth magnet and some hot glue. I drew out the wiring diagram for you.

It really could not be any simpler. I ordered a Neutral Switch Eliminator Plug as Kenflo mention in a post above. I do not want to fight with the switch anymore so I will replace it rather that blocking the switch in the tranny with epoxy as some described.

Works beautifully and if it needs adjusting, it can not be more accessible. I mounted mine on the external steering column, I could have hidden it inside the column but if it needs adjusting I do not want to have to pull the column apart to service it.

Ed
NSS AS built.jpeg
20161121_114512[1].jpg

 
It's there for a reason. When you run over and kill a loved one, you might wish you hadn't done it.
 
Last edited:
For the cost, why not just get a new one. My Challenger had this problem with a 28 year old switch. Installed the new one, and 14 years later, it's as dry as the day I installed it.
RR is right. All automatics have a neutral switch there for a damn good reason. With a new switch installed, your steering column will have a much nicer appearance.
 
This is an auto?

You say "after all you've been through" so I assume this is a new switch? Or several new switches? There really isn't much to it. I saw your other post and you shouldn't have to modify the switch to get it to work. Same with the leak, it should be VERY easy to fix if the threads are good.

If this isn't a new switch, they're like $11 or $12 from RockAuto. Just buy a new one. Might even fix the leak, that's probably damaged threads. The link isn't just to RA, it's actually to the NSS switches.
RockAuto
 
I have put everything on the switch from the teflon tape, pipe dope, plain dry install. I have gone thru about 6 switches in the last 3 years. The ATF leaks thru the center of the switch. I do not know how I can run over anyone. The backup lights never worked consistently with the NSS. Plus I have a backup radar system on the car which is hooked to the tail lights for power. Now they both work all the time.
This modification is SAP. No gears to turn and no switch to line up.
As I said the picture is at first blush, I have not fixed it up to look good. Once it is painted, it will blend in.

If you do not like this, Please do not do it. But I have had almost 4 years of leaks on my garage floor and driveway, from the tranny and that will stop now.

I posted this thinking maybe someone in the same position can consider this, I did not post it for a confrontation
 
Last edited:
It's not that some of us don't like it, it comes down to the "safety" part. If you've ever been trapped between a garage wall and a car that was started in gear because the neutral safety switch" was wired around, you will see the need for this switch. Maybe you should try another brand, or check to see if the ones you've bought were made by a reputable manufacturer.
 
It boggles the mind that you had THAT much difficulty with the factory switch
 
Demonracer said:
It's not that some of us don't like it, it comes down to the "safety" part. If you've ever been trapped between a garage wall and a car that was started in gear because the neutral safety switch" was wired around, you will see the need for this switch. Maybe you should try another brand, or check to see if the ones you've bought were made by a reputable manufacturer.
Click to expand...


I second your thoughts. I bought my son a Hot Rod "55 Chevy with a 396 motor many years back. His engine died at a friend's house so i had to go help. My son had parked his Chevy about 3 ft behind another car out on the curb. We hadn't had the Chevy very long so I didn't know much about it. My son and I were standing in front of the car looking under the Chevy hood for loose wires and such. Then I asked my son's friend to try and start the engine. Now, don't ask me why, but for some unknown reason both me and my son just happened to walk from in front of the car to the driver's door right about the time my son's friend hit the ignition switch. Someone, probably my young son, had left the car in gear. The damn car leaped forward and the front bumper slammed against the car that was parked in front of it.
I could just imagine me and son trapped with both our knees broken. Those old Chevys had heavy duty steel bumpers not like today's plastic cr@p!!!! As soon as I got the car home I hooked up a NSS. Had I known about the missing switch when I bought the car I would have never let my son drive it.

The moral of the story is that if anyone else (who is not familiar with your car) ever drives your car...they could be in for a very painful experience!!

treblig
 
i dont think any more dangerous than starting a manual without the clutch in.im sure that happens alot.if it were mine i would fix the switch
 
If the shifter is in any position OTHER THAN Park or Neutral, it will not start. That is why you see three separate switches. The Center one is for Backup lights. If the magnet is more than a 1/16th of an inch off alignment the switch will not pick and the engine can not be started. Once the shifter goes beyond the Neutral position there is noting to allow the starter to operate.

I am not stupid, I checked, doubled checked and triple checked the setup to verify that it works properly

This is as fool proof as the NSS switch. If the shifter is not in the exact proper position it will not start.
Plus, which really has no bearing, I use another switch under the dash that must be depressed at the same time as the key is turned or the car can not start
 
You know I have been through this before. I can guarantee you one thing, I will not post any improvements I make to my car to this board again.
I go out of my way to take pictures and make drawings so others can follow, if they want. I do not do this for me, I try to be a contributing member here.
But that stops now
 
Nobody confronted you. Nobody called you stupid. Nobody. We were only trying to help you make a good decision. As for you not sharing what you are doing with your car, that's your own selfishness. Don't try and blame that on anyone but you.

All anyone did was try to help, but as far as I am concerned and to use your own words, for me helping you anymore, that stops now.
 
are you keeping it looking like this? thats pretty fugly looking. isn't there a better way?

what exactly is leaking? the switch itself? or the threads where the switch screws in? sure the trans case isn't cracked there or anything? hard to believe ya haven't been able to fix the leak/../



20161121_114512-1-jpg.1714991487.jpg
 
Pawned said:
I am in the process of eliminating the NSS on my Duster. After all I have been thru with it, it still leaks and the reverse lights do not always turn on.
Before I start, the picture of the switches are just under the ignition key on the steering column. I just finished setting them up and used hot glue so I have not yet put them in permanently. I will pretty it up before I am finally finished.
This is an extremely simple circuit. I am using 3 Magnetic Cylindrical Plastic Sealed Reed Proximity Switches with a small rare earth magnet and some hot glue. I drew out the wiring diagram for you.

It really could not be any simpler. I ordered a Neutral Switch Eliminator Plug as Kenflo mention in a post above. I do not want to fight with the switch anymore so I will replace it rather that blocking the switch in the tranny with epoxy as some described.

Works beautifully and if it needs adjusting, it can not be more accessible. I mounted mine on the external steering column, I could have hidden it inside the column but if it needs adjusting I do not want to have to pull the column apart to service it.

Ed
View attachment 1714991485 View attachment 1714991487
Click to expand...

The switch on the transmission that you say is leaking is for the reverse lights only. The NSS is on the pedal assembly and mega easy to bypass because you ground out the tab on the starter relay that comes from the NSS ...its a single wire that grounds out when you depress the pedal
 
I actually thought it was pretty creative, yes it has an "unfinished look" but you said it was unfinished. Chill out, most everyone was just warning about the hazards of eliminating the NSS. If you can make it look cool and it functions correctly it would make a good alternative for folks who install a GM 2004R which is not compatible with the Mopar NSS wiring/system.

Treblig
 
If it operates as it should, I don't see what the big deal is. Weird you couldn't get a stock switch not to leak leak though.
 
I see what the problem is here. Pretty well no one read the first post properly! Everyone assumed Pawned was simply bypassing the NSS when in fact he replaced the NSS on the trans with a setup on the column which TOTALLY makes sense if you take half a minute to read the first post. Then what he did got called fugly even when he said more than once that it's TEMPORARILLY installed and will be prettied up later! Pawned, keep building your car how you want and keep posting on here, some people just can't see/read clearly... Rant over.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
The switch on the transmission that you say is leaking is for the reverse lights only. The NSS is on the pedal assembly and mega easy to bypass because you ground out the tab on the starter relay that comes from the NSS ...its a single wire that grounds out when you depress the pedal
Click to expand...
As you can see in post one its a column shift auto...
 
75slant6 said:
As you can see in post one its a column shift auto...
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say it was that clear ...ever seen a three on the tree??

even though, now that I am thinking automatic ...all this suddenly makes more sense
 
75slant6 said:
Also no clutch pedal :poke::D
Click to expand...

cant see that in the pic and my crystal ball is busted right now.

It makes sense to remove the NSS in a manual because they didn't even have an NSS on pre-70 cars anyways, but this has to be the first I have ever heard of such thing on an automatic.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
cant see that in the pic and my crystal ball is busted right now.

It makes sense to remove the NSS in a manual because they didn't even have an NSS on pre-70 cars anyways, but this has to be the first I have ever heard of such thing on an automatic.
Click to expand...
Yea I'm not running a switch in my 5 speed Duster, I think I lurched it once ever, done it more in the PT Cruiser and that has a switch...
:wtf:
 
75slant6 said:
Yea I'm not running a switch in my 5 speed Duster, I think I lurched it once ever, done it more in the PT Cruiser and that has a switch...
:wtf:
Click to expand...
definitely need a nss, hope ur set up works all the time. ever see a drag car started in the staging lanes and cream the car in front of it ? no insurance for either , and a huge argument possibly leading to fighting and/or a lawsuit.
 
I went through the intermittent nss also turned out to be the wrong rooster comb in the trans, yes there are three different ones, now the leaking just does not make sense.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top