Removal of A833 from 1970 Duster- Z bar removal.

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Scott D

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Hi Everyone,

I have recently spun a bearing in my 416 stroker and have decided that while I am pulling the motor I will remove the A833 from the car at the same to fix a few slow leaks that kinda bother me and I will detail the transmission at the same time for those originality dorks like me.

I have found plenty of good information on this site about the shift rods and having to remove them to get the trans out, and the unbolting of the transmission support etc. I am not going to be rebuilding the transmission so I believe that I will not need to adjust any of the linkages.

What I cannot find is a good thread with how to remove the Z bar from the car. Has anyone got a good step by step or some pictures? I would also accept any step by step instructions for an entire engine trans removal or an engine removal but I think I can piece that together myself.

I will be removing the engine and trans via the engine bay. I know that there is some debate about the bottom up vs top out but I am limited to top out based on knowledge, comfort with procedure and equipment.

Until 2019 I have only had e-bodies and all of them had automatic transmissions so I am really in uncharted waters for myself but I know that someone on here will be able to explain how easy this is.
 
There is 2 bolts on the bell housing side that hold the bar to the bell. Pull these out and the Z bar will drop down and off of the frame rail side pivot ball. But first, follow the linkage under the master cylinder to the top of the Z bar and remove the clip, and do the same for the clutch fork. Then remove the bolts as noted above.

Steps I do it, remove the shifter handle and reverse link, the Z bar, Speedo cable, drive shaft, cross member and 4 bolts from the transmission to the bell housing… takes about 12 minutes on a lift… or 45 minutes on your back…

If you don’t have a spare slip yolk no on a drive shaft, zip tie a rubber glove to the trans tail housing, unless you like the stench of transmission fluid on the floor…
 
Some remove the distributor I believe. May keep it from becoming "customed by crunch" against the firewall.
Lifting the rear of the car can help with removal of engine / trans as an assembly.
Definitely address the certain leakage out of the tail shaft housing.
 
Scody21 said:
There is 2 bolts on the bell housing side that hold the bar to the bell. Pull these out and the Z bar will drop down and off of the frame rail side pivot ball. But first, follow the linkage under the master cylinder to the top of the Z bar and remove the clip, and do the same for the clutch fork. Then remove the bolts as noted above.

Steps I do it, remove the shifter handle and reverse link, the Z bar, Speedo cable, drive shaft, cross member and 4 bolts from the transmission to the bell housing… takes about 12 minutes on a lift… or 45 minutes on your back…

If you don’t have a spare slip yolk no on a drive shaft, zip tie a rubber glove to the trans tail housing, unless you like the stench of transmission fluid on the floor…
Click to expand...
Thank you sir! This is the helpful information I’m looking for!
 
Daves69 said:
Some remove the distributor I believe. May keep it from becoming "customed by crunch" against the firewall.
Lifting the rear of the car can help with removal of engine / trans as an assembly.
Definitely address the certain leakage out of the tail shaft housing.
Click to expand...

I have the distributor off, the crank pulley off, I may pull the starter but my scientific eye judgements say it may not be necessary. Since I’m an e-body guy mostly I thought I’d remove both exhaust manifolds but I can’t get either of them out so they are loosely bolted on.

but I appreciate all advice! These a bodies are so cramped compared to my former challengers.
 
Scott D said:
I have the distributor off, the crank pulley off, I may pull the starter but my scientific eye judgements say it may not be necessary. Since I’m an e-body guy mostly I thought I’d remove both exhaust manifolds but I can’t get either of them out so they are loosely bolted on.

but I appreciate all advice! These a bodies are so cramped compared to my former challengers.
Click to expand...

try working on a shoebox nova. That’s cramped…

I’d pull the starter if the motor is coming out and it is a classic starter, not the new mini. Having a tilt for the hoist is very helpful…

3/4 ton Capacity Load Leveler
 
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