Removing my 273 engine

-
66Glassback

66Glassback

Active Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
42
Reaction score
42
Location
Rochester, NY
I'm pulling the motor and transmission out of my 1966 Barracuda. It's a 273 with a 4 speed manual transmission. I am going to pull both at the same time, however, it looks as if the pressure plate will not clear the Centrelink. Has anyone had this problem or know if it will make it by the Centrelink?

unnamed.jpg
 
66Glassback said:
I'm pulling the motor and transmission out of my 1966 Barracuda. It's a 273 with a 4 speed manual transmission. I am going to pull both at the same time, however, it looks as if the pressure plate will not clear the Centrelink. Has anyone had this problem or know if it will make it by the Centrelink?

View attachment 1716159576
Click to expand...

The center link is easy enough to drop a few inches.
 
It'll clear just fine, remember- you're lifting the engine. You'll need to tilt it a bit to get it all out anyway. Just remember to pull the distributor first- it's common for it to hit the firewall when jockeying the engine around, and you don't want to bend or break the poor thing.
 
The best way is to do it like the factory did and pull everything (K-member and all) out the bottom. If you insist on taking it out the top, as mentioned, remove the distributor, also, the radiator, fan, and pulleys, the hood, P/S pump, and the center link.
 
I don't think you have to remove the center link. But like TB said, it's not difficult to drop.

If pulling out the top definitely pick up one of these, especially if you're doing it by yourself.
81d77OoTI5L._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg
 
The center link isn't absolutely necessary, but, it sure makes things lots easier. Pretty simple to pop it loose from each end and get it out of the way. Otherwise the bell housing wants to catch on it. Also, think about how you want to seal the end of the tail housing. An extra yoke wired in place works good. Otherwise, remove the one you have on the driveshaft and plan on putting a new one in. Even after draining the transmission, there's usually some residual 90W that you just can't remove that will drip on your floor. A baggie with a bungee will work decent too if there's not much inside.
 
Last edited:
Thank you guys for all of the advice. I cannot remove it from below because I can't get the car high enough to do so. I have a load leveler and I have removed the distributor, radiator and everything including the water pump. I had to go out and purchase a 2 ton engine hoist because my 1 ton hoist can't make the reach. So that puts me to next weekend to finish pulling the motor. Thanks again. I will let you guys know how it goes.

unnamed (1).jpg


unnamed (2).jpg
 
66Glassback said:
Thank you guys for all of the advice. I cannot remove it from below because I can't get the car high enough to do so. I have a load leveler and I have removed the distributor, radiator and everything including the water pump. I had to go out and purchase a 2 ton engine hoist because my 1 ton hoist can't make the reach. So that puts me to next weekend to finish pulling the motor. Thanks again. I will let you guys know how it goes.

View attachment 1716159799

View attachment 1716159804
Click to expand...
You lower the works down onto a cart or piano dolly. Then use the cherry picker to lift the front end of the car and roll the drivetrain out.
 
I's allot easier to pull the engine without removing the K-member.
Way faster if you've done it a few times.
 
Wow, never thought about that. I have seen it done (on a lift) on that show Graveyard Cars. However, I have a pretty small 1 car garage to work in and I don't think I will have enough room to do that. Ill look into it this week. Also, I have a plug for the transmission tail shaft.

Thank you.
 
I once removed the K and once was enough. Way easier/way faster out the top with a tilter.
But with a 4-speed, It's so easy to pull the trans first And if the trans is out, It's quick and easy to drop the BH and clutch and FW too, I mean I'm just laying around anyway ............. lol.
And then the engine comes out real slick.
 
Easy what I do, like stated you need to have the chain so it will pull the motor out tilted you can do this by installing the chain and using two grade 8 bolts with washers to secure the chain from slip age and have it at a good angle.

second thing i do so I don’t need to have the engine and trans super high up in the air to clear the engine bay, I remove both front tires use to jacks and each side to lower the car and higher when need to clear the center link, I also us a third jack under the trans to help it get over the center link.

I’ve done this even with a slant six with a four speed attached in my early a body 64 dart which is way longer.

Works for me hope it helps you
 
I also always remove my grill, and put cardboard taped over the radiator support area just in case lol
 
Captclev said:
I don’t think removing the center link is necessary
Click to expand...
Like I said, it isn't necessary, but, it makes things much easier and only takes a few minutes to pop it loose. What's the big deal about doing it?
 
Take the tools you need when you have to take the exhaust loose! :lol: Do they make an ejection seat creeper? Hmmmm......:lol:
 
Do what works for you, but once you do it from below it’s pretty simple. Even more so reinstalling. Back wheels strapped onto ramps, put some weights on the lift, but front of car is pretty light with nothing up there

IMG_2209.jpeg
 
Whatever method you try it is an adventure. You can even do it at 4:30 in the morning like me. : ) I used to pull the A833 first by laying it on my chest. Sucked but not too difficult. From there I always pulled both engine and trans together. And yes, I think I always removed the center link. A leveler is not necessary. Just bolt the lift chains so the rear wants to sag big time. Put a floor jack at rear of trans to control its rise/decent until the engine hoist has it. I always wired a yoke in trans as mentioned above to contain fluid.

scan0033.jpg
 
I overhauled the front suspension at the same time, so it was a no-brainer for me. Bolted the 4-speed to the engine and bolted to the K-member, put the whole assembly on two cheapie HF wooden dollies, jacked up the front end of the car high enough to roll the assembly under the car, then rolled it under and pulled it up into position to pop in the four big-*** bolts.

009863C5-18A8-4004-A254-0591E5B66034.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top