REPEAT MISTAKE: NEVER LEAVE A PART AT A GARAGE FOR LATER-LCA ISSUE

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pa340dart

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Had my local shop press out the pivot pins from my LCA- 70 Swinger 340, showed him where to press at in TB socket, all good.
Went back week later for bushing shell to be pressed out [1-3/8 tap method]
I only have 1 tap so took one LCA in, [tap installed] and again indicated where to press at in TB socket, all good
Took the other LCA [RIGHT SIDE] in few days later [tap installed], they were really busy, so at they're request I left the LCA at the shop, picked it up few days later, looked good
Fast forward a few weeks, I discover the RT LCA got deformed during the pressing operation.
The TB socket is no longer free to rotate in the arm assembly, it turns by hand but very hard.
First pic: lined up both LCA's best I could. I circled problem area.
2nd pic: close up
Reparable or junk?
3rd pic: repair idea
I was thinking about welding/clamping the LCA to my welding table [green], then welding a piece of capped pipe [red] to the lip [black arrow] on the other side. Then using a jack thru the TB socket to push side plates apart. I only need about 1/8" to free up the inner arm/socket
Any easier ways/ideas?? Hate to replace it-original part
Thanks in advance, Tom
Maybe @GTX JOHN could chime in?

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I would try putting it socket side down on the welding table and hitting the bottom lip with a brass drift. Should loosen it up enough to rotate.
 
Since I just posted this I'll post it again here, repair video from @Jim Lusk showing how to reinforce those LCA's.

Typically the issue is the opposite of what you had, they end up very loose at the socket which allows some slop in the LCA there. So generally they need to be clamped together and then reinforced to keep them from opening back up again.

 
72bluNblu said:
Since I just posted this I'll post it again here, repair video from @Jim Lusk showing how to reinforce those LCA's.

Typically the issue is the opposite of what you had, they end up very loose at the socket which allows some slop in the LCA there. So generally they need to be clamped together and then reinforced to keep them from opening back up again.

Click to expand...

I really should have done this when I installed the QA1 strut rods, guess I’ll do it when I install my QA 1 K member, thanks for the reminder!
 
It just rotates when you adjust ride height. And that’s very little rotation. Don’t make it sloppy. If it move but lot of resistance, that’s fine.

The force from the adjuster screw vs force of the weight of the front end will overcome resistance. Just don’t leave it stuck.
 
If you can turn it by hand, even if it's difficult, there's nothing wrong with it. The shop did nothing wrong. That end of the LCA never has the two ends lined up the same and as mentioned are almost always lose anyway.
 
@72bluNblu thanks for the video, exactly where I'm headed.
I don't know how they pressed the sides together, but the center adjuster arm swiveled just fine when I left it there.
Oh well, now looking for a used hyd. press for the garage.
I just have to reshape/repair the half-moon cutouts where the adjusting bolt plate rides on, enviro rust, fab the strengthening plates and weld it up.
One less item I won't have to look for at Carlisle next week.
I also considered using poly but have a total Moog suspension kit I put together and bought around 2015? [made in Mexico/USA] before Moog went chinese.
Thanks for all the input. :thumbsup:
 
@RustyRatRod thanks for the input
These LCA's are in the original condition since removed and boxed up-say 1985, not even cleaned. Both of the LCA inner swivel were loose and rotating freely.
The right one in picture #2 at arrow looks bent when compared to the left one and is thinner in thickness measuring across all three plates, little over 1/8".
When I grab and twist the TB socket the inner swivel will lock up after around 15* spin then it tightens up that I almost need a pipe wrench to rotate it more. it jams up about 3 times in its range of motion. I don't think they used the 2"x 6" pipe that I supplied to level the arm for the pressing operation. If they placed the arm on the press without the pipe it would rest on the slanted section of the LCA.
pressing the tap out through the hex socket with a larger pin than the one I also supplied would have essentially pressed all three pieces together and tightened everything up. At least that's my best-case scenario I can come up with.
If used as-is, I believe it would be rubbing/grinding together, however slightly, when driven on the road. [rebound and jounce motion] I couldn't knowingly use it as it was.
Tom
 
I know. I'm tellin you they all look similar.
 
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