gsoco
gsoco
Hey ya'll...I want to replace the old and cracked buss fuse block with a blade fuse block. Are there any "go by" videos out there? I cannot find any. ANy help or advice is welcomed. Thanks!
Replacing a BUSS fuse block with a blade fuse block
- Thread starter gsoco
- Start date
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You can buy a replacement plastic fuse block housing (new or used) and just swap over the metal connectors.
If you are sure you want to make the change, I would look for a generic one that has enough fuse holder locations.
Keep in mind that some fuses are not fed by a main bus but are a kind of passthrough in design.
If you are sure you want to make the change, I would look for a generic one that has enough fuse holder locations.
Keep in mind that some fuses are not fed by a main bus but are a kind of passthrough in design.
gsoco
gsoco
What is meant by "pass through"? It looks as if there is a common ground circuit for most of the loads and two hot wires providing the power either directly constantly from the battery or from the head light or ignition switch when on...
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You can buy fuse blocks from several people, including Autowire/ Painless etc. Depending on the year, these girls are ALL underfused, some worse than others.
Except for the main fuse link, which is REALLY poor protection...................
Headlights are not fused at all except the breaker built into the light switch
Ignition circuit is not fused at all
Depending on year, wipers may not be fused except breaker on wiper switch
Components fed by key "ACC" position are fused AFTER the key, and then only poorly.
Consider adding at least one relay and perhaps two--one for ignition loads, and one for ACC loads.
Except for the main fuse link, which is REALLY poor protection...................
Headlights are not fused at all except the breaker built into the light switch
Ignition circuit is not fused at all
Depending on year, wipers may not be fused except breaker on wiper switch
Components fed by key "ACC" position are fused AFTER the key, and then only poorly.
Consider adding at least one relay and perhaps two--one for ignition loads, and one for ACC loads.
Some circuits get power from a location, like the headlight switch, then go through a fuse then to the load.
Other cirs get the power from a common bus bar of sorts then go through a fuse then to the load.
Basically if you take a volt meter under the dash with everything turned off and the doors shut.
Some fuses have power and some do not, till you turn on a switch etc.
Some aftermarket fuse blocks have 1 or 2 busses that feed all the fuses.
You will need some spaces that are isolated from the buss
convx4
Well-Known Member
I am currently working on making my own wiring harness on my 65 coronet. I chose to do this because I wanted to make some modifications to the way it is wired. I also am adding relays to these: headlights, high speed on the heater/AC blower motor,, Ac clutch, power top. I have been planing to do this for several years, when I went to buy the blade style (ATO) fuse panel I wanted the company no longer offered it for sale. See link Keep it Clean Wiring KICKFB3 Keep It Clean Fuse Blocks | Summit Racing I found the knock off on one of those cheep Chinese internet sales places. Now that its in my hands it is not very good quality. I might order this and see if its better quality. ATO/ATC® 8-Way Fuse Block
I also think that I haven't saved any money by making my own wiring.
I also think that I haven't saved any money by making my own wiring.
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