Replacing oil pan, opinions please.

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flyfish

flyfish

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My old Milodon 8 quart low profile pan decided to give up after 13 years of service at the end of last year. It got a 4" crack along a weld and started leaking. I tried to weld the crack and managed to screw the pan up worse, so I'm replacing it. I don't want to use the same type of pan because my headers run too close to the kickouts on the low profile pan...I had to reshape the passenger side of that pan with a 3 pound sledge and a torch to make it fit years ago (big-ole pain in the rear).

So, I'm looking for a pan with straight up and down sides, and extra capacity. This is what I have found that should fit....Has anyone use either one of these?...Oh yeah, and my first race is in 2 weeks...#-o...nothing like waiting till the last minute to fix stuff, lol.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-910

Or

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20730/overview/

Opinions welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I forgot to add. I normally run 6 quarts of oil in my 8 qt pan. If I go with the Canton pan, do you think it will slow the car down by having the oil closer to the crank since that pan only holds 6 quarts (total capacity says 7 quarts, but that is 1 quart in the filter and 6 in the pan).

I would REALLY hate to slow the car down since I have worked very hard for every tenth I have pulled out of this combination.

The only issue I see with the Moroso pan is that it is 10" deep. My current pan is 8.75" deep and the Canton pan is 9" deep. I don't think the extra 1.25" would be a problem with ground clearance....but you never know till you come down from the wheelie...or find a speed bump.
 
Have several of the moroso pans in use on 360s...got one of the canton on a 340 and never had a problem with it either....my problems have been with milodon ...lol...and headers...
 
70aarcuda said:
Have several of the moroso pans in use on 360s...got one of the canton on a 340 and never had a problem with it either....my problems have been with milodon ...lol...and headers...
Click to expand...

Lol, I hear ya. I spent hours reshaping that stupid oil pan years ago....Milodon pan and Headman Hustlers headers....no worky.
 
I am running a Kevko pan also. It has done its job well.
 
I looked into Kevco, but those pans looked like I would have the same issue with the kickouts getting into the headers. Really, my headers are the problem, but I'm stuck with them till they die.

I ordered a Canton pan in hopes that I could save a few bucks and use my old pickup. My old pan and the Canton pan are only a 0.25" difference in depth, so I think I can make it work with the old pickup and not have to buy a new one....otherwise I'll have to fork over another 75 bucks for a new pickup.
 
My Kevko pan does not have any kickouts on the sides. It is straight.
 

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Interesting on the Hedman Hustlers.... those the ones with one pipe on each side that exits the through the fenderwells? My dad ran those when the front of the Duster was still stock. Had to run a 1/4 in spacer on the head as the passenger side pipes were too close to the oil pan. I even had that prob with the iron head 360 we have and a stock rear sump pan... I ended up throwing the spacers out, having two of the header tubes relocated.
 
Well, I got my new Canton pan yesterday, looks nice.....and I really should not gripe yet considering I have not tried to put the pan on the motor and stuff it in the car yet (that will be Saturday), but I seriously have to wonder who designed this thing. In an A-body, the passenger front corner of the pan is really close to the K-frame. My previous Milodon low profile pan would not fit without cutting a notch out of the front passenger side of the K-frame.............so, guess where Canton put the drain plug on this pan...........(pause for effect).........YUP, in the spot with the least amount of clearance, the passenger side front....what the freaking crap is that!?!?! Granted, I have not put it in the car yet, but my guess is some Chevy guy designed this thing without looking at the types of vehicles that normally have small blocks.:banghead: I'll find out Saturday if I have to make more space I guess. :violent1:
 
A pic of the not so awesomeness...
 

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Ahhh, G's. I hope it works out well for you.
 
I had the same problem with my Milidon pan (cracked along the weld) at the rear of the pan.I removed it..cleaned it up and tried some JB Weld on it.Not!! Still leaked:violent1:I ended up just buying a new one as I was limited for time.Watching to see your results.
 
If it can make you feel any better, I had a 360 Moroso pan many years ago. It had the drain plug on the bottom. While that may sound ok at first, considering how low they hang, it wasn't a good place. After winning an event, I dropped a wheel off of the edge of the return road to give a Jr. dragster room to get by. It was just enough for the asphalt to catch the plug and tore it out. My car didn't wheelstand as high as it does now either. But that's why I switched to the slightly shallower Milodon and the plug is in the back driver's side corner. Stiffer compression shocks also help avoid contact with the track.
 
flyfish said:
Well, I got my new Canton pan yesterday, looks nice.....and I really should not gripe yet considering I have not tried to put the pan on the motor and stuff it in the car yet (that will be Saturday), but I seriously have to wonder who designed this thing. In an A-body, the passenger front corner of the pan is really close to the K-frame. My previous Milodon low profile pan would not fit without cutting a notch out of the front passenger side of the K-frame.............so, guess where Canton put the drain plug on this pan...........(pause for effect).........YUP, in the spot with the least amount of clearance, the passenger side front....what the freaking crap is that!?!?! Granted, I have not put it in the car yet, but my guess is some Chevy guy designed this thing without looking at the types of vehicles that normally have small blocks.:banghead: I'll find out Saturday if I have to make more space I guess. :violent1:
Click to expand...

Update......Well, it turns out I was worried for nothing; although I still think it is a bad place to put a drain plug. Luckily for me, since I had already notched my K-frame for the Milodon pan, the Canton pan had no clearance issues. The motor is back in the car and I should have it running before my first race on Sunday. :D
 
Would you recommend notching the K-frame for that pan?
 
I've had every single problem everybody is talking about! I had to CUT the K frame to get it in, I have the headers almost touching the thing and had to put heat shield in between it, I had a pinhole in one of the welds! I wouldn't purchase one ever again. I called Milodon and the guy sighed as I told him about the pinhole, he said the California laws won't let them use solvents to test. they have to use water and they don't catch the pin holes like they used to.(seriously!) he said he would replace it with gaskets and everything, but I just spent 3 days wrestling the thing into the car and was not going to pull the whole motor out again and wait two weeks for them to send me a new one after I sent theirs back. summit was not at fault gave me an 80 dollar discount on it. Milodon has made record of this problem and next winter if I take the motor out I'll take it off as they'll send me a new one. again I would not recommend this pan. I eagerly await the results of any other. so now of course I have JB Weld and gasket sealer smeared all over my brand new oil pan!:banghead:
 
rumblefish360 said:
Would you recommend notching the K-frame for that pan?
Click to expand...

I'll have to measure tonight and get back to you. I had cut a big chunk out of my K-frame years ago to make the Milodon pan fit, so I'll have to measure and extrapolate around the radius of the K-frame to see if it would have made it in without cutting.
 
Yes, in my application you would still have to notch the K-frame....not as much as for the Milodon pan, but you would still have to take a section out of the lip of the K-frame where it is thin to make the Canton pan fit.
 
Is it really that difficult to design a good oilpan (that doesn't leak!) And fits!?
For goodness sake it's 2015 !! This can't be rocket science !!#-o
 
j par said:
Is it really that difficult to design a good oilpan (that doesn't leak!) And fits!?
For goodness sake it's 2015 !! This can't be rocket science !!#-o
Click to expand...

I posted a picture of the Kevco pan above that would fit with no problem and is very affordable. And does not leak.
 
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