Replacing timing chain

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Romulo Roderiques

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I don't know how old the timing chain is in my 65 Dart with 273. Since I am replacing the water pump, I figured I would go a step further and replace it. I read in the FSM that you need a camshaft tool C-3509 to hold the cam in place. My question is do I really need that tool which I don't have and do I really need to remove the distributor to replace the chain and sprockets? Additionally, if the oil pan gasket tears where it mates with the front cover, can I just use silicone to reseal that portion or do I have to pull the entire oil pan?
 
You will not need the tool if you exercise reasonable caution. You do not need to remove the distributor. Yes, a dab of silicone is the tried and true method for sealing the timing cover corners back up to the pan gasket. Your new timing cover set will probably have the small end pieces for the oil pan. Cut the old ones off, position the new and add a bit of silicone sealer..
 
Replacing the timing cover with the oil pan & gasket installed can be a royal pain.

It can lead to a leak in your future.

Have you checked the timing chain for slop by removing the distributor cap to watch the rotor movement while you turn the crank shaft bolt back and forth with a breaker bar?
 
Awe, Don't Dissuade him. It's Easy!
Kit's have Two small pieces of gasket that sit on the Front of the Oil Pan on each side with a Rubber Seal in between, A Lil Sealer between them and Your Good To Go!

tim chain.jpg
 
Be sure to note all the bolted that go into the water jacket. You will need proper thread sealer for them.

Some are front cover only, some are water pump and front cover and some are brakets, water pump, and front cover.

Lastly look your front cover over thoroughly for pinholes between water passages and the engine
 
Alaskan_TA said:
Replacing the timing cover with the oil pan & gasket installed can be a royal pain.

It can lead to a leak in your future.

Have you checked the timing chain for slop by removing the distributor cap to watch the rotor movement while you turn the crank shaft bolt back and forth with a breaker bar?
Click to expand...

Please elaborate
 
Checking for Slop Means... You'll Remove Your Distributor Cap and turn the Crankshaft Back and Forth (While Watching the Distributor Rotor)
If The Rotor has a slight delay in movement and doesn't respond immediately to your crankshaft movements, then you have slop in your timing chain...
 
eekvonzipper said:
Checking for Slop Means... You'll Remove Your Distributor Cap and turn the Crankshaft Back and Forth (While Watching the Distributor Rotor)
If The Rotor has a slight delay in movement and doesn't respond immediately to your crankshaft movements, then you have slop in your timing chain...
Click to expand...

Copy that. 7 degrees or more and it's done
 
eekvonzipper said:
Checking for Slop Means... You'll Remove Your Distributor Cap and turn the Crankshaft Back and Forth (While Watching the Distributor Rotor)
If The Rotor has a slight delay in movement and doesn't respond immediately to your crankshaft movements, then you have slop in your timing chain...
Click to expand...

Just checked. About 10 degrees of slack. It's gotta go.
 
Is there any slip in the dist itself? Not talking about the mechanical advance.

Meaning is the slot for the dist in the drive or the blade on the end of the dist shaft warn?

Is the dist gear to the cam gear warn?

All of those things could contribute to a few deg at the crank.

Not saying you should not change the timing chain.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Is there any slip in the dist itself? Not talking about the mechanical advance.

Meaning is the slot for the dist in the drive or the blade on the end of the dist shaft warn?

Is the dist gear to the cam gear warn?

All of those things could contribute to a few deg at the crank.

Not saying you should not change the timing chain.
Click to expand...

I will check that as well
 
Be VERY VERY careful and make sure you put the timing cover bolts right back where they came from. There is one bolt hole that's pretty shallow. People have put a bolt too long in that hole before and not liked the consequences. It does not have much room AT ALL between the end of the threads and the outside of the cylinder. Plenty of people have run the wrong bolt in that hole and right into the cylinder and cracked it. That would be a really bad day.
 
It's an Oil Splasher, it just keeps the Oil off the Front Seal... it just sits there. No Worries.
 
If you replace the timing cover with the oil pan gasket undisturbed, use the 2 pan bolts to cinch down the cover before you torque the cover down. Its tight but can be done. Id run a tensioner if your replacing a silent type chain as pictured. Its really a nice piece to stabilize timing although some say it advances some cam timing once the chain starts to stretch but i feel the benefits outweigh this minor side effect.
 
pishta said:
If you replace the timing cover with the oil pan gasket undisturbed, use the 2 pan bolts to cinch down the cover before you torque the cover down. Its tight but can be done. Id run a tensioner if your replacing a silent type chain as pictured. Its really a nice piece to stabilize timing although some say it advances some cam timing once the chain starts to stretch but i feel the benefits outweigh this minor side effect.
Click to expand...
gotta Pic man? Where do you attach the Tensioner?
 
Its a whole new cam plate. Same 3-4 bolts.
042500951507-00-jpg.jpg


Some dont like running a double roller on it either as it tends to dig the ribs into the nylon slippers.
 
Romulo Roderiques said:
How does it stay in place without backing out?
Click to expand...


The damper slides on the crank and presses that slinger into the gear.

I put an oil feed hole in that plate. Actually, I use a high speed air bleed or similar and drill the brass to .040 or so and drill and tap that plate and screw the jet into the back of the plate.

Then I leave the slinger out.
 
pishta said:
Id run a tensioner if your replacing a silent type chain as pictured
Click to expand...
IMHO I would not add a tensioner. Or buy a chain that is designed for a tensioner.

I have had 2 timming chains go bad in a couple of other brand engines. Both times the tensioner falling apart was the cause. On one a piece of tentioner got between the chain and the gear and snapped the chain.

"The parts you don't add, don't cause you no trouble" my dad's favorite saying!
 
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Other brands of engines don't count! :p My Mazda has a tensioner that is a spring loaded ratchet type and I have had motors (Honda) that use oil pressure types too. This MP one is bone simple and the silent type chains are no slouches either with 6-7 chain plates between pins instead of 4 of a double roller. "...It (silent type chain) has large, non-roller links that engage the gear teeth. While more prone to chain stretch than a roller setup, this type of chain is stronger and lighter. That means it will last longer, which is a bonus in an OE-type or mild performance street engine that doesn’t have a large cam or excessive valve spring pressures that can induce damaging harmonic vibration..." Hamburger used to make a performance silent type chain (looong time ago) saying that double rollers were not necessary in a racing application.
 
yellow rose said:
The damper slides on the crank and presses that slinger into the gear.

I put an oil feed hole in that plate. Actually, I use a high speed air bleed or similar and drill the brass to .040 or so and drill and tap that plate and screw the jet into the back of the plate.

Then I leave the slinger out.
Click to expand...

Yup, engine parts do love oil.
 
yellow rose said:
The damper slides on the crank and presses that slinger into the gear.

I put an oil feed hole in that plate. Actually, I use a high speed air bleed or similar and drill the brass to .040 or so and drill and tap that plate and screw the jet into the back of the plate.

Then I leave the slinger out.
Click to expand...
I forgot to put it in. I hope it doesn't leak
 
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