reworking a fully restored car

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The wheels are back under it and the sound paint and undercoating are done .I should have the exhaust bolted to the frame and the gas tank back in her today after I deal with a little setback -Who would have thought cleaning deadfall off your glasses with acetone would cause them to shatter? Been wearing them for 46 years and never seen anything like it , can't wait to hear how it's common knowledge and I should have known better so I have to pay for the replacements .
 
well I started another thread called Orange Peel regarding my painting skills but heres the pics from it for this thread , the gal that mixed the paint from the label on the can I bought to spray a couple of wheels with did a pretty good job on the colour it looks like , too bad the gloss isn't coming up enough to match the car so it looks like I'll have to shoot some clear on it after it cures some more , thats assuming the little bit of texture it has in it cures out and I don't have to sand it all down and re-shoot it before I clear . Anyone know how long it needs to cure before it's safe to shoot the clear now that I missed that first 1-2 hours they recommend you shoot within to prevent wrinkling ?

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Hi Cannucky,

The best way to spray metallic paint IMHO is basecoat / clearcoat. Its very hard to get a quality deep shine on metallics without the metal flake sinking and getting a mottled look to the finish when using single stage which is what i am assuming your using.

Basecoat goes on very smooth and evenly, sprays easily, and dries quickly, the clearcoat you can apply fairly heavy in multiple coats to get your shine. As far as your question i am not sure about the wait time to recoat. I'd google it with the manufacturers paint your using, and or visit your auto body supply tomorrow and pose the question if your not happy with it, TBH, i'd wet sand it smooth by hand with 320 - 400 grit after a week, and do base/clear right over it.

Another question would be what speed of reducer are you using in the paint? Typically on hot days you want to use a slow reducer and maybe a retarder to slow the drying time so the paint will level out, because the warm air can dry it too fast causing dry lines, and bumps or orange peel.

On cold days you want to use a fast reducer to speed up the drying time. Otherwise the paint wont harden fast enough, and multiple coats will produce runs in the paint because its not drying fast enough between coats to support additional coats without sags or runs.

On days where its neither hot or cold, a mid temp reducer is whats required for both of the reasons stated above.

Hope this helps
Matt
 
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The local shops don't load two part into spray cans , they only load single stage Urethane and since thats what I have for a colour match formula thats what I went with ,I had good luck with it in the past matching a pair of wheels and drop filling some chips. I don't have a gun and compressor let alone the experience to go full base clear so I had to go single stage spray bomb , Inertia is almost ready to have his Dart shot by someone he found so if it can't be made to look decent I may get him to redo it for me . Trouble with base clear around hear is nobody seems to be able to match these pearlized mettalics , the body shop that did my quarter panel after it got hit tried a 1/2 dozen times and it still doesn't look as close as this single stage .
 
Yeah this is a custom loaded single stage SP 150 Urethane spray bomb with only the health and safety warnings on it .
 
cannucky said:
The local shops don't load two part into spray cans , they only load single stage Urethane and since thats what I have for a colour match formula thats what I went with ,I had good luck with it in the past matching a pair of wheels and drop filling some chips. I don't have a gun and compressor let alone the experience to go full base clear so I had to go single stage spray bomb , Inertia is almost ready to have his Dart shot by someone he found so if it can't be made to look decent I may get him to redo it for me . Trouble with base clear around hear is nobody seems to be able to match these pearlized mettalics , the body shop that did my quarter panel after it got hit tried a 1/2 dozen times and it still doesn't look as close as this single stage .
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Well dayum, if ya did that good with a spray bomb, my hats off to you sir. That looks pretty dang good. Hell i'd go with it for now, you can always take care of it better later. The whole back end is 110% better than before.

Small imperfections dont seem so bad once you start putting stuff back together and your eyes take it all in. Once the bumper is on, licence plate, and other trim, it will look much better.
 
Yeah only about a 1/4 of it shows but after all that work it's hard to say f it good enough lol. I' m mostly concerned with what is going to happen when I clear coat it , even tho the colour is pretty darn good the shine isn't even close , the original base clear job has too much clear it seems , it actually looks thick like a sheet of glass is on top of the paint instead of looking like wet paint so I have to shoot some clear on this so it blends at the quarters and looks right , the pics don't capture it but it is very obvious in person .
 
Those pics are proof the camera does lie , it isn't anywhere near that glossy looking in person , in fact the extreme right of the first pic looks dry and powdery in person like the drop down pass was deadfall .
 
In the past I've shot single stage, let it cure, wet sanded out dust, peel, whatever, I'd scuff it and shoot a urethane clear over it. Those repairs have lasted for years.
 
Looks good man. At least it will be right.
 
moper said:
In the past I've shot single stage, let it cure, wet sanded out dust, peel, whatever, I'd scuff it and shoot a urethane clear over it. Those repairs have lasted for years.
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Thanks I'm getting conflicting info from all sides so my current plan is to let it cure until it warms up this weekend , then hit it with some 2500 grit and if I f it up block it down with some 600 and shoot it again in 70 degree temps . I have another can of paint plus a can of 1K acrylic clear ready to go .
 
Lucky for me I have no big plans for the car this summer so I have plenty of time to mess with it . while I'm waiting the heads are coming off to be gone through and we're going to check the rings by filling the cylinders overnight so itmay get rings as well . 20k miles is a pretty healthy # for 520hp stroker and I want to go through it before it eats something and needs more than a refresh eh! Plus it doesn't scare me anymore so a cam swap and some small stuff to help longevity while adding minor bits of power are never a bad thing
 
If it is signal stage paint, don't sand it unless you are going to recoat it. There is no need to sand it if your going to top coat it with clear. If you do it will distort the metallic. I have clear coated custom color paint from a spray can. Just make sure the clear is the same as the color.
 
Granted, I'm no career body man. But when I asked my paint supplier his answer was a modern urethane clear can be sprayed over almost anything. So give it time to fully cure (I use a month of warm storage), "make it smooth", and then shoot it. Unless the top coat was dusted on it, the metallic should not change. If you wet sand down a couple layers - that's another story. But peal shouldn't be that deep. As I said - the cars I've done that on have been through some hell and the finish is still there and no separation.
 
Thanks all I'm going to experiment a little on the 2 hidden 2"×10" strips where the bumper brackets mount .first I am going to let it cure sone more .I glued the weatherstrip on yesterday and the adhesive caused the paint to melt a little in a couple of places so it's probably a little too soon to start playing with it .
 
Went out to test a couple of hidden spots , I was able to wet sand without the mettalic going funky but then the patch I sanded melted under the clear , so bad in fact that I wiped it with my finger lightly and exposed the primer .The other patch I just cleared and it seemed to laydown fine so after a 30 minute break I just cleared the whole thing, 3 coats 15 minute flash time between each ( the can said 10 minutes but I wanted to be sure ) then I shut the door and walked away . I'll open it up and look tommorrow after at least a 24 dry . It looked pretty good when I finished , the 1k clear even seemed to flatten out the peeks so hopefully it cures out nice .
 
Hey Cannucky,

Did you happen to remove any Vin #s during your excavation, if so, given any thought to notifying DMV that you rear Vin#s are missing, due to replacement with new metal, or you want me to weld the old Vin in, if you recovered it.

There's recent thread suggesting you might want to consider it. lol..

cheers
 
I don't think I removed any , I'm pretty sure the rear # is stamped on the underside of the upper lip of the trunk opening , I haven't tossed any of the old crap but there shouldn't be one on any of it -cheers good looking out tho eh!
 
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