Rhs Indy X Head Thread

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Looks great! Can't wait to see those dyno numbers!!

If this is your first 4" stroke small block you are going to love that torque. Just make sure the road is nice, wide, and straight before you step on it. I almost lost control of mine a few times when I first got it running. The revs build so fast and the torque is so strong you can get side ways very quickly.

One other thing, I run a Shumacher Torque Strap on mine. Does a great job of keeping the engine from moving and no vibrations:

http://www.engine-swaps.com/
 
I thought you had the pushrods??? I have the length you need
 
Looks great! Can't wait to see those dyno numbers!!

If this is your first 4" stroke small block you are going to love that torque. Just make sure the road is nice, wide, and straight before you step on it. I almost lost control of mine a few times when I first got it running. The revs build so fast and the torque is so strong you can get side ways very quickly.

One other thing, I run a Shumacher Torque Strap on mine. Does a great job of keeping the engine from moving and no vibrations:

http://www.engine-swaps.com/


340--Dont let off and it will eventually straighten out, maybe pointing in a different direction but,,,,haaaaaaaaaa:-D


I have solid mounts.. I will check out the Torque Staps. I thought that you had to have Power Stearing for that one to work? I have manual everything.
 
I thought you had the pushrods??? I have the length you need


I do have them for the magnum set up Ball / Ball. They came in at 7.650......

The new ones are Ball / Cup with an over all length of 7.400

I am going to get them hardened .135 wall with holes in them so pressurized oil will be at the cup.........Brian at IMM suggested that!
 
Looking good,waiting to see #,s from the dyno.Nice shop also!8)

Thanks,

The shop is 3000 sq feet. I mostly use it as storage and just started going back into it messing around with the engine. I took a 6 month break and left everything where it sits. Tools and all, like I walked off the job!
It needs a SERIOUS cleaning for sure, figure I will do it after the car is running again! Then I will be installing a lift.
 
Looks great! Can't wait to see those dyno numbers!!

If this is your first 4" stroke small block you are going to love that torque. Just make sure the road is nice, wide, and straight before you step on it. I almost lost control of mine a few times when I first got it running. The revs build so fast and the torque is so strong you can get side ways very quickly.

One other thing, I run a Shumacher Torque Strap on mine. Does a great job of keeping the engine from moving and no vibrations:

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

You run the regular stock style motor mounts with this strap??

Some guys I know run 1 solid on the Drivers side and stock on the pass.

How did you set yours up?

Engine looks awesome!!! I cant wait to have my 530 HP 408 stroker in my car!!...


Yours Looks pretty darn sweet also!

Engine looks awesome!!! I cant wait to have my 530 HP 408 stroker in my car!!...

That is a Demon on yours right?? Mighty Demon? How Big is it?
 
I run the Schumacher locking motor mounts and like them. Bolt up just like stock mounts but they are interlocking so they can't break. Plus they offer some vibration dampening.
 
You run the regular stock style motor mounts with this strap??

In my 4spd E-body Cuda, I ran the OE engine mounts and the torque strap without issues. It bolted in fairly easy. It would take the power from the 360 and a dump of the clutch (letting the pedal slam up during 2-3-4 shift.) at 6600 rpm all day.
 
In my 4spd E-body Cuda, I ran the OE engine mounts and the torque strap without issues. It bolted in fairly easy. It would take the power from the 360 and a dump of the clutch (letting the pedal slam up during 2-3-4 shift.) at 6600 rpm all day.

That is good to know. I will see how it vibrates with the solid mounts and the subframe connectors. If it starts to loosen my fillings in my teeth, I will make the swap. I already have NEW stock style mounts just need the strap.

I run the Schumacher locking motor mounts and like them. Bolt up just like stock mounts but they are interlocking so they can't break. Plus they offer some vibration dampening.

I like these also instead of the torque strap showing under the hood. We'll see.
 
I run the poly-locs and the strap..even with the strap i was ripping the regular mounts in half,no problems since putting on the poly-locs..
 
I run regular rubber motor mounts both sides with the torque strap. I have manual steering and I installed it according to their instructions. It installs low in the engine bay, Not very visible. It has a bracket that bolts to the k frame and then a rod that runs up to the motor mount ear on the block.

Have you bolted your TTI headers to the heads with a gasket and checked how well they crush the gaskets? I had to widen the flange bead on the out side tubes on my TTIs to get them to seal. TTI is suppose to have a new larger tube header out to address that issue.
 
I run the poly-locs and the strap..even with the strap i was ripping the regular mounts in half,no problems since putting on the poly-locs..

For guys running sticky tires and pulling the wheels off the ground at launch that would probably be the best route to take.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rumblefish360
In my 4spd E-body Cuda, I ran the OE engine mounts and the torque strap without issues. It bolted in fairly easy. It would take the power from the 360 and a dump of the clutch (letting the pedal slam up during 2-3-4 shift.) at 6600 rpm all day.


That is good to know. I will see how it vibrates with the solid mounts and the subframe connectors. If it starts to loosen my fillings in my teeth, I will make the swap. I already have NEW stock style mounts just need the strap.

My engine , I guess I could call it a 450 HP 360, not such a radical engine, but it did move the car well and took some serious abuse.

At the time of the torque straps purchase, the Poly Lock mounts were not yet made/out for sale. I'd love to get those as well.


340sFastback
I had to widen the flange bead on the out side tubes on my TTIs to get them to seal. TTI is suppose to have a new larger tube header out to address that issue.
Would you have a picture of this issue?
 
My budy's 340 Ebody cuda spit out the 4sp linkage because the stock rubber mount 9brand new) failed. With 3.91s and 14" radials. The engine is only about 380hp. It's the chock and the fact that most new mounts are cheap crap. You can run any RH mount, but left should be the safe-t-mount or have a good torque strap.
 
Would you have a picture of this issue?

Here you go. The inside tubes are fine, it is the tubes on the ends that didn't seal well.

HeaderFlangeWeld.jpg
 
My budy's 340 Ebody cuda spit out the 4sp linkage because the stock rubber mount 9brand new) failed. With 3.91s and 14" radials. The engine is only about 380hp. It's the chock and the fact that most new mounts are cheap crap. You can run any RH mount, but left should be the safe-t-mount or have a good torque strap.

Napa auto parts truck mount.
BK 6021346

228747.jpg
 
I run regular rubber motor mounts both sides with the torque strap. I have manual steering and I installed it according to their instructions. It installs low in the engine bay, Not very visible. It has a bracket that bolts to the k frame and then a rod that runs up to the motor mount ear on the block.

Have you bolted your TTI headers to the heads with a gasket and checked how well they crush the gaskets? I had to widen the flange bead on the out side tubes on my TTIs to get them to seal. TTI is suppose to have a new larger tube header out to address that issue.

Yes, I crushed them yesterday. I had to open up the gaskets just a hair but all is fine. My Headers are not very old and the flange that seals on the gasket is thick and actually notches around the bolt holes.

Napa auto parts truck mount.
BK 6021346

Those are Bad ***!!
 
1Wild, that's perfect for an A body or truck. No good for E body... they font use the biscuit isolators.
 
Got the push rods from Manton. They are a pretty sweet piece!!
The push rod pinch area on the RHS Heads WILL allow the use of a a 3/8's pushrod.

I ordered 3/8 push rods .095 wall with 5/16 Ball and Cup ends that OIL THRU so the Rocker Adjusting Ball and Push Rod Tip will have pressurized oil. Brian at IMM engines suggested this trick.

I ordered these at around 10:30am and picked them up at 3:00pm TODAY! That is FAST!!!

Here they are..

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002.jpg


004.jpg


005.jpg


006.jpg
 
Those look nice. Brian also suggested to me that I run oil through push rods which are working well in my engine.
 
Those look nice. Brian also suggested to me that I run oil through push rods which are working well in my engine.

Me too on the Hyd roller I have but manton sent solid pushrods... We got it figured out. Terry took care of the stuff no issues.

Looks good, be interested to see it run on the 4th.
 
Good trick. People thought I was nutz for doing that years back.

340's, you added the weld?
 
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