Rhs Indy X Head Thread

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crackedback said:
I forgot one thing. Does the filter adapter plate have 4 holes in it or have you drilled an additional 4 holes for a total of 8 in it. That will help the oiling system a bunch.
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It has 4 in it. The paint is still drying on the plate. I will drill the other ones tomorrow.

Got anymore tricks............no need to hold out on me..........haaaaaaaaaa:thumrigh:
 
I would go back to the 90* adapter, that filter looks like its damn near touching the header, i wouldn't want that, what headers are those, TTIs?
 
JoeDust451 said:
I would go back to the 90* adapter, that filter looks like its damn near touching the header, i wouldn't want that, what headers are those, TTIs?
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Those are TTI's..........The filter is not tight in the picture you see and is just on by a few threads. YES it is close and that is why I posted earlier that I like the 90* set up also, it keeps the oil filter away from the exhaust quite a bit compared to the shorty filter that when in all the way has less than 1 inch clearance. Good to know I have a choice though.
 
JoeDust451 said:
I would go back to the 90* adapter, that filter looks like its damn near touching the header, i wouldn't want that, what headers are those, TTIs?
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It sure looks close and those header tubes get pretty darn hot. But the 90* adapter can be a PITA sometimes. Some guys get lucky and they seal up and others have problems. I went a different route altogether and eliminated the need for the adapter while keeping the filter away from the headers. Here's a pic.

When I put in the new stroker this spring I plan on swapping the push-loc fittings for AN fittings so their easier to R&R.
 
fishy68 said:
It sure looks close and those header tubes get pretty darn hot. But the 90* adapter can be a PITA sometimes. Some guys get lucky and they seal up and others have problems. I went a different route altogether and eliminated the need for the adapter while keeping the filter away from the headers. Here's a pic.

When I put in the new stroker this spring I plan on swapping the push-loc fittings for AN fittings so their easier to R&R.
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Tracy, did you make a plate for the block?? What did you use? That will keep the filter alot cooler for sure! I have used the 90* adapter with no leaking issues in the past.
 
Could do the remote oil filter adapter.

I use the 90* with headmans, no issue, plenty of clearance.

Drill the plate all you want till it has no integrity to seal anymore, the block still only has the amount of return holes it has.

don't get carried away and waste time when you already have plenty of oiling for what your doing.
If oil mods were/are a concern, they really outta have been the concern when it was a bare block.
Unless you are going over 7500 rpm and doing it a lot, a good deep sump,baffled pan and a couple of trays will do just fine.
 
Here is the dolly made from the engine stand. Now it has 2 uses instead of just 1.

Next trip is loading in the truck and taking it to the Dyno on Dec 4th......

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Mad Dart said:
Tracy, did you make a plate for the block?? What did you use? That will keep the filter alot cooler for sure! I have used the 90* adapter with no leaking issues in the past.
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no I screwed fittings right into the block. That's what the left picture shows. The bottom hole I had to tap out to 3/8" pipe thread which is the same as the upper hole. The upper hole is already tapped but has a plug in it. You just remove that plug and screw a fitting into it. The middle hole gets plugged. If I remember right it's 3/4" fine thread and I used an oil plug gasket on it to seal it up. Or you can go the route of using this oil filter relocation kit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1120/

With it you don't do any tapping into the block itself. Just screw the adapter on where the filter originally went, mount the filter plate where ever you want and run the hoses to it. Just make sure to debur the adapter and filter plate before you use it. Mine had some nasty burrs that would be restrictions. I basically ported it so the oil flowed smoothly.
 
I initially ran with out the 90 degree adapter and when my headers were tight and bolted to the h-pipe I could not get the short filter off without loosening the header and the collector. Seems like when the collector bolts were tightened it would flex the header tubes slightly (TTI exhaust). Plus the filter seemed like it was sitting right on the header which is not good. So I went back to the 90 degree adapter set up. I like having the filter nice and far away from the header plus running the larger filter helps too.

Looking forward to hearing how it runs on that dyno!!
 
Put the oil in it and primed it. Made sure that the Rockers got oil on both sides by turning the engine over about 60* at a time. Finally the drivers side started to oil and just before TDC on number 1 the Passenger side started to oil. I primed it up really good on both sides and in between. The guage shows over 70lbs and when the rockers start to oil it shows 65lbs. That is with Brad Penn break in oil and 2 pints of Hughes EXTREME PRESSURE additive. I lubed the cam with break in grease and poured a pint of Extreme additive directly over the cam before I put the intake on.

Anyhow I am all loaded up, fueled up and ready to leave tomorrow morning for the dyno at 5:30am. We shall see what happens for real.......haaaaaa

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Dyno Time! Sweeeeeeeeeet!!!!!

Whats the charge these days by you?

OH! nice engine stand. I think I'll copy it, LOL!
 
Ok, Dang today was a long day. Left the house at around 5:20am and didnt get back in town til around 6:30pm............

The engine made some good power and the numbers are the real deal no fluffing making up stories etc that we all normally see on the internet.

The engine sounds AWSOME kind of like a NASCAR NASTY IDLE with very QUICK throttle response and back down to idle VERY FAST! Sounds VERY wicked for sure........

The engine made 507 ft lbs of torque at 4700 rpm and well over 400 lbs starting at 3000 rpm. Horse Power was right at the same 507 hp at 6000rpm.
No pulls were done over 6000rpm being that it seemed to be about the max that it was going to do. I am sure that I will REV it way past that if it keeps pulling for sure!!!

Brian started out with my Mighty Demon 750 and the air/fuel ratio was running VERY LEAN even after some tuning was done on it. So Brian put on his Holly 1000HP Carb and the fuel ratio was VERY good and that is what made the best power. We tried that FANCY spacer that DON at FBO sells and it LOST 7 average HP and some more torque.......Funny because Don states that it will ADD 20hp. I am learning that almost ALL parts sales people DO NOT believe that you will DYNO TUNE your engine so they say just about anything to make the parts fly off the shelfs it seems.


Should be a VERY FUN car to drive and the torque should be awesome.

I was hoping for more but that is fine. No oil leaks and it is still running which is good.

Brian and his crew did a very good job today for sure......
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, Dang today was a long day. Left the house at around 5:20am and didnt get back in town til around 6:30pm............

The engine made some good power and the numbers are the real deal no fluffing making up stories etc that we all normally see on the internet.

The engine sounds AWSOME kind of like a NASCAR NASTY IDLE with very QUICK throttle response and back down to idle VERY FAST! Sounds VERY wicked for sure........

The engine made 507 ft lbs of torque at 4700 rpm and well over 400 lbs starting at 3000 rpm. Horse Power was right at the same 507 hp at 6000rpm.
No pulls were done over 6000rpm being that it seemed to be about the max that it was going to do. I am sure that I will REV it way past that if it keeps pulling for sure!!!

Brian started out with my Mighty Demon 750 and the air/fuel ratio was running VERY LEAN even after some tuning was done on it. So Brian put on his Holly 1000HP Carb and the fuel ratio was VERY good and that is what made the best power. We tried that FANCY spacer that DON at FBO sells and it LOST 7 average HP and some more torque.......Funny because Don states that it will ADD 20hp. I am learning that almost ALL parts sales people DO NOT believe that you will DYNO TUNE your engine so they say just about anything to make the parts fly off the shelfs it seems.


Should be a VERY FUN car to drive and the torque should be awesome.

I was hoping for more but that is fine. No oil leaks and it is still running which is good.

Brian and his crew did a very good job today for sure......
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Mad sounds awesome man! good to hear she pulled hard!:cheers:
must have been exciting (and maybe slightly nervewracking) to hear it start and run for the first time, but it sounds like its a performer...definatly gonna be a hoot in the dart, and once you stick on the juice, WATCH OUT! LOL
When do you plan on putting her in the car?

once again man good job on it (especially with all the b.s. you went through) it must feel good!
 
mshred said:
Mad sounds awesome man! good to hear she pulled hard!:cheers:
must have been exciting (and maybe slightly nervewracking) to hear it start and run for the first time, but it sounds like its a performer...definatly gonna be a hoot in the dart, and once you stick on the juice, WATCH OUT! LOL
When do you plan on putting her in the car?

once again man good job on it (especially with all the b.s. you went through) it must feel good!
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I am very happy about it running for sure and the engine sounds CRAZY WICKED and VERY HEALTHY!!! So YES I am VERY glad that it is running and didnt come apart on the dyno!!

Well I am going to start installing it TODAY.......I am by myself so I will just take my time. I need to notch the k frame a bit so I will place the engine in the car and raise it up enough for me to hack at it....8)

I should be able to get the engine and trans in the car in about 4 hours by myself and hook up the exhaust. I will do the radiator and wiring probably tomorrow. I will see how it goes and if I run into any snags........I dont doubt that I will, seems to go with this car for some reason.
 
Mad Dart,

Could you go over your combo again if you don't mind. I don't remember the cam grind and where did your cr finally come in. Thanks, it would be benificial to some of us out here. Mad you are breaking new ground here with one of the first stroker builds with the new Indy/RHS heads verified with dyno numbers. Sounds like you have a ground pounder there. 507 ft.lbs. will be FINE on the street in an A-Body. Happy Bow-Tie hunting. "yes...it's only a 318...
 
Awesome MD!! Sounds like it has a real good torque curve which will make it great on the street and with over 500 hp good on the strip too.
 
D-mailman said:
Mad Dart,

Could you go over your combo again if you don't mind. I don't remember the cam grind and where did your cr finally come in. Thanks, it would be benificial to some of us out here. Mad you are breaking new ground here with one of the first stroker builds with the new Indy/RHS heads verified with dyno numbers. Sounds like you have a ground pounder there. 507 ft.lbs. will be FINE on the street in an A-Body. Happy Bow-Tie hunting. "yes...it's only a 318...
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360 block 40 over
4340 Eagle Crank
Eagle ESP H Beam Rods
Forged SRP pistons 16.9 Dish
Hughes Girdle and Main Studs
HV Oil Pump
Head Studs
Indy Rhs Heads
Ported and set up by IMM ENGINES Indio Ca
2.0 intake valves and 1.650 exhaust 8mm
Hughes 1.6 Roller Rockers and Banana shafts with Stud Hold Down Kit
Manton 3/8 Push Rods Oil Thru with 5/16 ends Ball and Cup
HD Water Pump 8 Blade
Pro Street Damper
Milodon Pan and Pick up
Johnson Hi Lift Oil thru SOLID LIFTERS
Hughes 5660as Solid Flat Tappet Cam
.618 intake lift 256*@50
.624 exhaust lift 260*@50
Lobe seperation 106* Installed Center Line at 103*
Mopar Performance single plane Port matched intake
Best so far with 1000hp Carb
PUMP GAS 10.2:1

BEST WITH NO SPACER........The spacer sucked real bad!!

The engine sounds Healthy and REALLY PISSED OFF..........MAN I AINT LYINNNN

Now my Lic Plate will live up to it for sure........ MAD DART
 
Word of advice,might want to spray some kinda clear or somthing on the intake or paint it,left mine bare metal and it started turning funky color,Don't forget to notch the k frame a tad for that oil pan too i learned the hard way.Congrats BTW8)
 
I'd like to clarify a few things about the test session and things that happened.
First, we took the engine to 6000rpm because it was done making power at 5700rpm!
No need to go past that point, although I did run it to 6200 but only recorded up to 6000. Just the way the DTS works.

Second...the Demon was LEAN OOTB, so I stepped the jetting up from 75 to 77 in the primary and from 83 to 86 in the secondary. After that I expected some change...we got none! Infact it was still lean and made no power difference what so ever.
So believing that carb was not going to come around, I changed it for my 1000HP with OOTB jetting and PV's.
Instantly made 17 more HP and 10 average HP from 3000 to 6000rpm!

After that we tried the super duper spacer and lost 7Hp and a ton of average HP and TQ.
Retested with the spacer removed and HP came back. Best timing was 34° total. I'll post the dyno graph next week so it's more visible to see what was happening.
Peak TQ was 4800 and peak HP was 5700rpm and HP only dropped a few from there.
It'll be a 6500rpm in the car engine no problem.
Not too shabby for cast iron "replacement" head.
Final compression was 10.2:1.

And we also ran the water pump mech. so there could have been 10HP right there for all you #'s hogs!!

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Thanks for clarifying Brian........

I did have to notch the K Frame quite a bit more that I thougt, but if you are going to take out the trans and leave the engine in, I didnt want the Pan to get a hole poked in it at tilt!

Motor is in the car, Headers, Flywheel, Clutch and Bell housing.......

The Transmission KICKED MY A$$$ TODAY! By your self that darn 4 SPD is awkward and heavy as all get out! I have stabbed it many times before by myself , today must have just been a bad day I ran out of juice. I should be able to finish it up by next weekend. Christmas Party's and other Family stuff to take care of.
 
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