Rocker arms that clear larger diameter springs

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DartVadar

DartVadar

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Not trying to create another "what is the best rocker arm' thread but today I figured out that I have a bit of an issue when I was looking for rocker arms for my 360.

I used to have the stock springs that come with the edlebrock heads, as well a PRW aluminum rocker arms (do NOT recommend them). Well after having my issue with the heads and those rocker arms that ate up the tops of my valve springs, I am going solid roller. The heads were gone through (I put them on ootb, which was a bad idea..) New springs were installed, but the diameter of the springs is 1.525". I originally wanted to go with some Harland Sharp rockers but after looking on the website it says that 1.5" is pretty much max diameter for the springs. So I would probably have to grind a bit off the rocker, which I dont really want to do.

The springs were matched to the cam, I have 260 seat and 543 open pressure. I know comp has the pro magnum rocker arms that are good up to a 1.625 spring diameter, and I assume that they are strong enough? That spring pressure isn't anything too crazy. But are there any others out there that will clear the springs? and if not is anybody running those comp rocker arms?

These are the ones
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-1622-16/overview/make/chrysler
 
DartVadar said:
Not trying to create another "what is the best rocker arm' thread but today I figured out that I have a bit of an issue when I was looking for rocker arms for my 360.

I used to have the stock springs that come with the edlebrock heads, as well a PRW aluminum rocker arms (do NOT recommend them). Well after having my issue with the heads and those rocker arms that ate up the tops of my valve springs, I am going solid roller. The heads were gone through (I put them on ootb, which was a bad idea..) New springs were installed, but the diameter of the springs is 1.525". I originally wanted to go with some Harland Sharp rockers but after looking on the website it says that 1.5" is pretty much max diameter for the springs. So I would probably have to grind a bit off the rocker, which I dont really want to do.

The springs were matched to the cam, I have 260 seat and 543 open pressure. I know comp has the pro magnum rocker arms that are good up to a 1.625 spring diameter, and I assume that they are strong enough? That spring pressure isn't anything too crazy. But are there any others out there that will clear the springs? and if not is anybody running those comp rocker arms?

These are the ones
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-1622-16/overview/make/chrysler
Click to expand...


It is NOT the rocker arms fault. Your rocker arm geometry is way off. Most ANY rocker (aftermarket) has enough spring pocket to clear what you are doing. The exception is the rockers that think it's great to put needle bearings on a reciprocating member (why copy the GM garbage??)

As an example, Chrysler was smart enough to know if you put longer valves in a head, you had to offset the SHAFTS away from the valves. See the W-2 stuff. So what makes everyone else think they can use longer valves and have the stands be in the exact location as OEM lengths.

I would suggest correcting geometry rather than changing parts. And stay away from rockers with needle bearings on the shaft.

Just saying..........................................
 
The heads are sitting on my workbench, and and engine isn't put together yet. The geometry should be good, I haven't had a set of rocker arms on the head yet to check. But it's the spring pocket on the rocker arm that is the issue, even Harland sharp confirmed that by looking at the specs on the rocker arms. I was actually made aware of this issue when I was talking to mike at MRL while ordering my lifters. He asked about the springs I was using and said that he didn't know of many rocker arms that would clear the springs on a small block without notching.
 
70aarcuda said:
Use a beehive or conical valve spring
Click to expand...

The heads are all setup and ready to go...I don't want to Change out the springs if I don't have to. I still need rocker arms, so I am not just buying new ones for the sole purpose of clearing the springs. That's why I was wondering about those comp ones as they claim to clear 1.625 or so diameter springs.
 
Now does that mean that 1.5" is max, or that they will clear 1.5 and up?
 
I think that was self explanatory.
Could you point out springs wider than 1.5 for me please?
 
Comp pro magnums look like a hefty piece. I haven't used them myself but by the way they look, they look like they could handle a beating. I was actually going to buy the comps before a member here posted up their Hughes rockers for sale at about half the cost. Couldn't pass them up.
 
Yes, Comp Pro Magnums will handle your spring pressure (and a lot more), and yes they will clear your springs. I have older Comp Pro Mags on my car with a 1.54" diameter spring (Comp 939's set up at 1.85"). The newer Comp Pro Mag rockers are a very tough rocker for the price. The body is chromoly with a bronze bushing to keep the rocker from galling the shaft at high spring pressures (something the old style rocker did not have).
 
rumblefish360 said:
I think that was self explanatory.
Could you point out springs wider than 1.5 for me please?
Click to expand...

Almost any spring for a solid roller (spring pressures over 500lbs open) will be wider than 1.5. An example of a typical solid roller spring, comp 943's.....1.55" diameter, ~240lbs on the seat set up @ 1.90", ~ 600lbs open.
 
If you already have the arms you can just clearance them. It's fairly common to need to do and .060-.080" isn't much to remove from the center of the rocker body.
 
flyfish said:
Yes, Comp Pro Magnums will handle your spring pressure (and a lot more), and yes they will clear your springs. I have older Comp Pro Mags on my car with a 1.54" diameter spring (Comp 939's set up at 1.85"). The newer Comp Pro Mag rockers are a very tough rocker for the price. The body is chromoly with a bronze bushing to keep the rocker from galling the shaft at high spring pressures (something the old style rocker did not have).
Click to expand...


Thats good to know that they are pretty stout then. I have been looking more into them and like them alot.



moper said:
If you already have the arms you can just clearance them. It's fairly common to need to do and .060-.080" isn't much to remove from the center of the rocker body.
Click to expand...

I dont have any yet, so that why I wanted to try and find some that fit without any grinding.

I originally had a set of PRW alumunum rocker arms and they didn't even live with a little hydraulic flat tappet cam. The rollers are all wore out, and some dont want to spin anymore with only 3k miles on them, so one more reason to not buy chinese rocker arms. lol
 
Brian at IMM and Hughes engines sell PRW Stainless Steel rockers. I had an issue with rockers hitting my valve springs too. I then switched to PRW and that solved it. I also remeasured for pushrods and needed different lengths. So far these things are good. I have a solid flat tappet. Next upgrade will be Hydraulic roller. P.S. I am not using beehive springs, I am using a pretty stout spring with dampener. However, beehive springs would free up some HP and more clearance too!
 
A lot of what happens to the rockers has nothing to do with the rockers themselves. While I'm not a fan of cheaper stuff (or perhaps a better way to present that is I understand what getting a cheaper product to market entails), my impression is you had other issues causing you problems. For instance - a bad valve job, incorrect valve springs, or valve spring setup, bad guides, overtightening attachment bolts, bad or poorly installed cam bearings, bad or incorrect pushrods, bad lifters, or over-revving can all cause damage to rockers that otherwise would be fine.
 
moper said:
A lot of what happens to the rockers has nothing to do with the rockers themselves. While I'm not a fan of cheaper stuff (or perhaps a better way to present that is I understand what getting a cheaper product to market entails), my impression is you had other issues causing you problems. For instance - a bad valve job, incorrect valve springs, or valve spring setup, bad guides, overtightening attachment bolts, bad or poorly installed cam bearings, bad or incorrect pushrods, bad lifters, or over-revving can all cause damage to rockers that otherwise would be fine.
Click to expand...

Was a pretty bad valve job (ootb eddy heads) And not all of them were bad, but the bad ones didnt have the tip sitting level on the valve, it was crooked, I dont know how I didnt notice that when I originally put them on. So those rollers have wear on one side, and scuff marks like they stopped spinning at some point. There were also no oil holes in the rocker for the roller tips, they were only splash oiled it seemed.

I'm sure it was a few things, but either way I need new rockers. And this time the heads have a good valve job, the correct springs were used, and the lifters should be good. Everything should be good to go this time.
 
There's a reason why Mopar guys say that Eddy heads need work OOTB
 
Sure but without knowing any better back in the day when they were a new product I installed set of OOTB Edelbrock small block heads on my 360 and have not had an issue yet.
Though I'm sure someone will have something doubtful to say about it. Or cast some unfounded shadow of how I have no idea how poor there performing.
 
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