Roller cam and turbo charging

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Sorry wayferer for the late response. Lunati isnt a bad lifter. Id not use them for street use unless the cam you run is pretty mikd and you dont do a lot of street driving.
 
Hi guys, I am looking to go with a solid roller also on my 414 turbo build, did u have to tube your lifter oil gally or is there a lifter that will work without tubing or sleeving? Thanks!
 
Thanks guys! I will look into both lifters, I was just getting ready to assemble my motor and was told I had to tube the lifter oil passage, I was trying to find a local shop to do it but no one had the tools to do it. I have a set of used comp lifters I was gonna have comp rebuild and use but I don't know if they will work.
 
70wayfarer said:
mine will be 50/50 street strip. what is best, solid or hydraulic roller.
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I went hydraulic because of fewer valve adjustments, and less wear and tear on the rollers. Not sure what performance gains are to be had, I have spun my engine near 8000 rpms with no trouble.

I think the biggest gain is from flat tappet to roller just to get that quick ramp and bigger area under the curve.

I am at about 10,000 hard miles with the hughes roller cam and lifters with nothing but good things to report.
 
MrMoparMan said:
I went hydraulic because of fewer valve adjustments, and less wear and tear on the rollers. Not sure what performance gains are to be had, I have spun my engine near 8000 rpms with no trouble.

I think the biggest gain is from flat tappet to roller just to get that quick ramp and bigger area under the curve.

I am at about 10,000 hard miles with the hughes roller cam and lifters with nothing but good things to report.
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MrMoparMan, you used the Hughes hydraulic roller if i recall correctly. what part number. cheers
 
Don't get tripped up and not using a Solid Roller. I have thousands of miles on mine, .643 Lift at the valve 242@50, I went to check lash after about 5K miles. They did not move a bit.

Adjusting a solid cams valves all the time is a Myth. Guys don't know WTH they are talking about. Use good parts and you will not need to adjust them hardly at all. I have LA Heads and I run an EMD hole in the push rod as well at about .010. This keeps pressurized oil on the ball and cup. Manton Pushrods is 15 min from my house. I had them make me some 3/8 push rods with 5/16 ends on them. Never had a problem and I have ran several Solid FT cams as well with the same set up. No problem holding the valve adjustment. I revv my current Stroker motor well into the 7K Range on a 200hit of NOS as well. Never misses a beat.
 
Mad Dart said:
Don't get tripped up and not using a Solid Roller. I have thousands of miles on mine, .643 Lift at the valve 242@50, I went to check lash after about 5K miles. They did not move a bit.

Adjusting a solid cams valves all the time is a Myth. Guys don't know WTH they are talking about. Use good parts and you will not need to adjust them hardly at all. I have LA Heads and I run an EMD hole in the push rod as well at about .010. This keeps pressurized oil on the ball and cup. Manton Pushrods is 15 min from my house. I had them make me some 3/8 push rods with 5/16 ends on them. Never had a problem and I have ran several Solid FT cams as well with the same set up. No problem holding the valve adjustment. I revv my current Stroker motor well into the 7K Range on a 200hit of NOS as well. Never misses a beat.
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i was originally going to use solid flat tappet cam. have done in the past with 383 na with little adjustment needed at all.
every one now pushes the roller cam deal. i suppose it saves the hassle of cam run in.
 
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