Rookie mistake.....need help

-
harrisonm said:
Very true. How an engineer could come up with that ridiculous idea is beyond me.
Click to expand...

They still use L/H threads on one side of bicycle pedals for the same reason. Same with ring gear bolts in your cars 3rd member. The engineering is sound, lots of other auto makers did it in the early years too, Mopar was the last hold out.
 
Ironracer said:
To the best of my knowledge, Chrysler Engineering wanted to make sure the nuts wouldn't loosen due to tire rotation....
Click to expand...
Which makes absolutely no sense at all. I think their dealership mechanics needed work. Or Chrysler saw how much they could make off of selling replacement parts, caused by the useless LH crap. Just think of all the $millions$ wasted fixing all the broken/stripped LH studs and nuts!
 
OKDart said:
They still use L/H threads on one side of bicycle pedals for the same reason....
Click to expand...
That does make sense, because the pedal would just unscrew without the ***-backwards thread. It's a bad design though, because there are so many better ways to stop things from unscrewing, such as keyways, splines, set screws, cotter pins, double-D shafts,... If you really need LH nuts how do the wheels stay on race cars doing 200 mph without them? You know darn well that NASCAR and similar oval track racecars, plus drag cars that go 300+ have not used LH nuts for at least 75 years, and I'm willing to bet most never have.
 
Last edited:
RustyRatRod said:
Stop being a Chevy guy for three seconds just plowing ahead and read up. Here it comes.

Remove the entire drum/hub assembly. Get a 5/8 metal cutting hole saw. Drill through the drum only around the broken stud. This will cut away the sewdged part of the stud and allow you to drive it right out and not ruin the hub. If you try to drive it out without cutting the swedge off, you will ruin the hub and drum both. If you get hung up and need some help, post up and we'll help you out. It's an easy job, but it's equally easy to booger it slam up if you don't do it correctly.
Click to expand...


Damm! I wish I'd have known about this a few years back. I ruined a perfectly good hub trying to change left hand studs.
 
AAndrews said:
Damm! I wish I'd have known about this a few years back. I ruined a perfectly good hub trying to change left hand studs.
Click to expand...

I agree...

I make use of the Print function on some of these threads..... Or a bunch of cut-and-paste into a reference binder.
 
Sdriche said:
Ok, I'm smart enough to listen to other smart people. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise. Ordered RH studs and new Lug Nuts. I'll also have them pressed out vs my impact approach. Thanks again!!!!

This is front drivers BTW
Click to expand...


I missed the last 12 posts so just an FYI

@Sdriche Dont press them out either! You need to cut the backs off and press them out the FRONT. Or use a 7/16 swedge cutter (looks like a hole saw) and push them out the back. The designed stud hole is .*** and the swedge is like +.010 so if you press the studs out over the swedge the holes in the hub are now oversized and the stock replacement stud will not be a press fit anymore.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Which makes absolutely no sense at all. I think their dealership mechanics needed work. Or Chrysler saw how much they could make off of selling replacement parts, caused by the useless LH crap. Just think of all the $millions$ wasted fixing all the broken/stripped LH studs and nuts!
Click to expand...
Oldsmobile used right and left hand lug BOLTS on some of their vehicles. DAMHIK
 
I cut the backs off and pushed them forward. One of the suckier jobs I've done but thanks for all the advice...invaluable. I now have right hand threads. Dreading doing the rear now.
 
Sdriche said:
I cut the backs off and pushed them forward. One of the suckier jobs I've done but thanks for all the advice...invaluable. I now have right hand threads. Dreading doing the rear now.
Click to expand...

I would think the rears would be easier. Take a wafer wheel and cut the head off on the back and then pull the stud out the front with a socket and a nut.
shruggy.gif
 
Sdriche said:
I cut the backs off and pushed them forward. One of the suckier jobs I've done but thanks for all the advice...invaluable. I now have right hand threads. Dreading doing the rear now.
Click to expand...
Rears are MUCH easier. Not swedged. Use some penetrating oil. Leave nut on lug flush with top end of lug and hit with a big hammer. They will come right out.
 
67dodgedartconv said:
Rears are MUCH easier. Not swedged. Use some penetrating oil. Leave nut on lug flush with top end of lug and hit with a big hammer. They will come right out.
Click to expand...

Hmm. I did that on a '69 GTS and the resulting flange holes ended up too large for the replacement studs. Maybe I got the wrong replacement studs. Now I wonder.
 
6PakBee said:
Hmm. I did that on a '69 GTS and the resulting flange holes ended up too large for the replacement studs. Maybe I got the wrong replacement studs. Now I wonder.
Click to expand...
Sometimes the holes are just wallowed out from age/rust/wear. At one time there were all kinds of replacement studs, some even had oversize splines just for this condition. It seems that the selection of sizes/types of replacement studs has dwindled in recent years. For example, just finding any LH studs is tough now.
 
6PakBee said:
Hmm. I did that on a '69 GTS and the resulting flange holes ended up too large for the replacement studs. Maybe I got the wrong replacement studs. Now I wonder.
Click to expand...
I would guess the replacements were wrong. I replaced all five of the left rear on my Dart with no problems but I used old factory studs from another car.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It appears the swedge has been cut off. I use a sharp punch attachment in my air chisel to drive the wheel studs out.
Click to expand...
I have drove many out, but take the hub off the spindle first and lay flat. You don't want to mess up the wheel bearings. These in the photos seem to of been replaced before, so knocking them out should be of no problem. Line up the splines and tap back in or flip over a lug nut and draw them in. I agree with others here that going with all right hand threads may be best unless you are working on a 100 point show car.
 
Not so ridiculous, semi trucks are left handed threads on the left side to this day.
 
Swinger 340 said:
I have drove many out, but take the hub off the spindle first and lay flat. You don't want to mess up the wheel bearings. These in the photos seem to of been replaced before, so knocking them out should be of no problem. Line up the splines and tap back in or flip over a lug nut and draw them in. I agree with others here that going with all right hand threads may be best unless you are working on a 100 point show car.
Click to expand...
Man, that is how I always did it..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top