I took those pictures 2 nights ago. I looked right past the date. This project, in general, has been on going since late fall. When it became winter, (read cold) much wasn't done. No heater in the garage worth anything.
rumblefish's Duster project
- Thread starter rumblefish360
- Start date
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Near the finish, time to test install the parts. Just a placement with the idea of looking for an issue to deal with.
Pic #1
Put on the heads with the gasket under it. Added pushrods. Were looking for easy head fitment. Also dropped in the distributor.
Pic#2 & 3
Then the same with the intake. Place gaskets between the intake and head. Bolts should go in easy. But a few of the Edel. bolts that came along somewhere into my pocket are to short. I have a nice can of bolts to look around in. LOL
Valve cover gasket is the race steel incased in rubber, re-useable ones. There isn't a clearance issue with these and the stock valve cover. (And the intake which can be a problem.)
Pic#4
Then the carb and linkage for a look. Then add the aircleaner up top and look for linkage interfearance, binding and fuel line interfearance. (sp?)
Don't forget the rockers. Check to see if the pushrods rub the walls of the holes. If so, then the rockers are mixed up.
Pic#5 A look from behind. Not finished. No I just need some time to torque everything down.
All tightening specs can be found in a Chiltons, Haynes or motors book. There on-line as well.
On to try and make heads or tail of the brackets.
Next, rear end and brake stuff.
Pic #1
Put on the heads with the gasket under it. Added pushrods. Were looking for easy head fitment. Also dropped in the distributor.
Pic#2 & 3
Then the same with the intake. Place gaskets between the intake and head. Bolts should go in easy. But a few of the Edel. bolts that came along somewhere into my pocket are to short. I have a nice can of bolts to look around in. LOL
Valve cover gasket is the race steel incased in rubber, re-useable ones. There isn't a clearance issue with these and the stock valve cover. (And the intake which can be a problem.)
Pic#4
Then the carb and linkage for a look. Then add the aircleaner up top and look for linkage interfearance, binding and fuel line interfearance. (sp?)
Don't forget the rockers. Check to see if the pushrods rub the walls of the holes. If so, then the rockers are mixed up.
Pic#5 A look from behind. Not finished. No I just need some time to torque everything down.
All tightening specs can be found in a Chiltons, Haynes or motors book. There on-line as well.
On to try and make heads or tail of the brackets.
Next, rear end and brake stuff.
[/QUOTE] this would make a nice addition to the facts section or if we had one a "how to section".
I should have put it in a different section. Engine issues, how to do cheap, what ever it fits in. Better named "318 on the cheap." I wouldn't mind doing a super step by step with the up coming 360, but thats alot of picture taking and work that may not see all the steps of what it takes.
I'd hate to leave something out.
The 360 build is a bit away any way.
I have to get headers/exhaust/shifter/drive shaft and two floor pans for this.
May end up selling it sooner. Who knows. Some local just came by and offered 2,000 for it. As is.
NOT!
I have just a few parts involved in this car that I'm not going to have lating around doing nothing. He can wait. (He he he)
1966 dart wagon
Well-Known Member
dam that engine looks really good, why did u paint the exhaust ports, o well haha dang that looks alot better :thumblef: :thumblef:
Because brake cleaner will take the paint right off, less than 5 min. and your done. I'll take the exhaust gasket that will be used and scratch a line in the paint and remove the rest with a rag and brake cleaner.
Though I never had a problem with paint under the gasket.
Though I never had a problem with paint under the gasket.
Being the Duster is a slant 6 engine, replaceing the engine and tranny with a more powerful V-8 may very well warrant a replacement of the weak 7-1/4 rear ring gear axle. While the best discription I heard about it was "Avoid it like the plague" some have said it did survive for awhile.
Well, I don't want to find out how it feels to be stuck again. Theres enuff trama in my life without breaking a rear end. In a local paper, the Bargin News, Special Intrest that serves the North East well, I found in my local back yard a 8-1/4 sure grip euqiped 8-1/4 w/3.21 gears. Ahhhhhh, now where talkin! The price was $200.
Discribed as backing plate to backing plate, it was perfect for me. Through donor cars for the Magnum, I aquired a few spare parts. Here, it suites well for the Cordobas gave up 11 inch drums for the Duster. You mostly just need the backing plates for this job. Everything else can be had new.
Heres a few shots of the rear when I got it home last late summer. Rusty and sitting in dirt. (Ouch!) I had a bit of rust and dirt to scrape off. Oil down all the bolts on this well to remove anything. Even if it hasn't been sitting in dirt.
Elbow grease needed here to get the rust off.
(P.S. moved to a new job location (Closer to home. 6 miles instead of 50!) and lost the use of the glass beeder. So a wire brush is used. Man, I missing that machine allready!)
Well, I don't want to find out how it feels to be stuck again. Theres enuff trama in my life without breaking a rear end. In a local paper, the Bargin News, Special Intrest that serves the North East well, I found in my local back yard a 8-1/4 sure grip euqiped 8-1/4 w/3.21 gears. Ahhhhhh, now where talkin! The price was $200.
Discribed as backing plate to backing plate, it was perfect for me. Through donor cars for the Magnum, I aquired a few spare parts. Here, it suites well for the Cordobas gave up 11 inch drums for the Duster. You mostly just need the backing plates for this job. Everything else can be had new.
Heres a few shots of the rear when I got it home last late summer. Rusty and sitting in dirt. (Ouch!) I had a bit of rust and dirt to scrape off. Oil down all the bolts on this well to remove anything. Even if it hasn't been sitting in dirt.
Elbow grease needed here to get the rust off.
(P.S. moved to a new job location (Closer to home. 6 miles instead of 50!) and lost the use of the glass beeder. So a wire brush is used. Man, I missing that machine allready!)
Heres a few pictures of what a wire brush and a can of paint will do for your rear.
With the 11 inch backing plates installed inplace of the small drum backing plates, (Direct bolt on) I opted for new hardware from brake lines (S/S @ under $50) wheel cylinders @ $10 each, pads and springs.
2 quarts of oil and a couple oz. bottle of additive with a gasket and your all done. Ready to go.
2 quarts of oil and a couple oz. bottle of additive with a gasket and your all done. Ready to go.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Do you have a job? LOL! :laughing:
Hey, man, great progress, great pix and a super thread! You are giving me inspiration! I wish I could make the kind of progress you are, but at least I keep on keepin' on!
BTW- what kind of paint did you use? Last time I used brush-on Rustoleum and it held up pretty well. Also, did you prime or just paint over bare metal? Inquiring minds want to know.
Hey, man, great progress, great pix and a super thread! You are giving me inspiration! I wish I could make the kind of progress you are, but at least I keep on keepin' on!
BTW- what kind of paint did you use? Last time I used brush-on Rustoleum and it held up pretty well. Also, did you prime or just paint over bare metal? Inquiring minds want to know.
Inquire away.......I have a full time job that I also work overtime with to the tune of 40 regular hours, 16 - 24 extra O.T. hours a week. More O.T. if it's there. They key is down time where ever you get it.
I also work nights. When I'm alone at home and not sleeping, I can be found in the garage. AKA, my house. LOL
The rear was actuall done over the winter. No primer, just Dupli-color for the black, VHT for the drums and various brake parts. The work spanned a month. Sometimes to cold to paint, sometimes to cold to work. This winter in down state N.Y. was good.
You did give the key to it all. Keep on keep'in on. "Relentless" my wife calls me. Also infected with the pentastar disease. A little here and there when ever the time or energy permits helps in the long run for sure. Speaking of which, time to torque down the heads and intake.
I also work nights. When I'm alone at home and not sleeping, I can be found in the garage. AKA, my house. LOL
The rear was actuall done over the winter. No primer, just Dupli-color for the black, VHT for the drums and various brake parts. The work spanned a month. Sometimes to cold to paint, sometimes to cold to work. This winter in down state N.Y. was good.
You did give the key to it all. Keep on keep'in on. "Relentless" my wife calls me. Also infected with the pentastar disease. A little here and there when ever the time or energy permits helps in the long run for sure. Speaking of which, time to torque down the heads and intake.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
You and that goofy camera.....set the date, for cryin' out loud! Here I was thinking you did this all in a couple of days....LOL!
Seriously, though-this is a great thread. Please keep it up. My Duster thread is still forthcoming....but at least you'll be able to track the timeline by the dates!
Seriously, though-this is a great thread. Please keep it up. My Duster thread is still forthcoming....but at least you'll be able to track the timeline by the dates!
halfaed
Well-Known Member
Wow, that thing was alittle dirty! Looking go now though!
Thanks halfed. Heres a couple of shots of what a surprise I got when I opened up the rear cover to change the oil and pop the C clip out to slide the axles out for the backing plate swap. The fella I purchased it from had it outside on the ground for awhile. You should have seen it then. A hint is in the above pictures. Look at the wheel cylinder.
I was like; GREAT! Just wonderful. The rust actually did not extend much beyond what you see. Again, it was a spray of WD-40 and a flat wire brush that did the trick. Oh, lots-o-time to do it. A flake or to of rust will get crushed, but the least amount left behind is ....well more than enuff.
I just flipped the rear after spraying WD-40 on it and scrubed gently.
The Cover was cake.
Kirk, it probably was Feb. at the time. :sad2:
I was like; GREAT! Just wonderful. The rust actually did not extend much beyond what you see. Again, it was a spray of WD-40 and a flat wire brush that did the trick. Oh, lots-o-time to do it. A flake or to of rust will get crushed, but the least amount left behind is ....well more than enuff.
I just flipped the rear after spraying WD-40 on it and scrubed gently.
The Cover was cake.
Kirk, it probably was Feb. at the time. :sad2:
Over the weekend, I decided to clear the garage of some parts that the Duster is going to use. It's getting clutered in here and I'm starting to trip. :wack:
Since the Duster is getting a 318/904 combo, the 7-1/4 rear will more than likely fail with the added power parts on the engine. Ya, it may only generate 260 hp, but it's gotta be a clear 110+ hp more than the /6 it's replacing. While at it, the rear springs also needed to go. There tired springs with helpers bolted to the rear segment.
Be alert to this! The OE 7-1/4 springs, pearchs and U-bolts are narrower @ 2 inch rather than 2-1/2 width of all other MoPar springs. So you can not cheap out here, but you can get away with all new hardware inexpensively.
One tool that made this easy is a cut off wheel. I got mine at Sears. It wacks out the U-bolts in a few min.'s rather than twisting off the rusted bolts.
I went to Springs and things. AKA espo.com. I ordered A-body 340 springs, 1 inch higher than stock, shackles and bushings & new U bolts. I also had on hand new, unused shock plates. The plate that bolts under the spring to which the shock attachs. I got these from Just Suspension awhile back for something else. You'll need new shock plates because the OE ones are to narrow. I did cheap out on shocks though. :cwm10: I just painted what was there.
Heres a few more pictures. I'll need to take more. I had gotten real dirty real fast when I realized I didn't have the Kodak on hand. It wasn't to hard to do. Afternoon out, afternoon in. Though I still need to bleed the brakes. It's done otherwise.
The one thing I got a little burned by was the 7-1/4 rear mounted 5 X 4 wheels and the 8-1/4 has 5X 4-1/2. Lucky me that I had some donated car wheels around back. There a bit huge @ 225/75/15 and may very well not fit if it were not for a little rot. You judge.
Since the Duster is getting a 318/904 combo, the 7-1/4 rear will more than likely fail with the added power parts on the engine. Ya, it may only generate 260 hp, but it's gotta be a clear 110+ hp more than the /6 it's replacing. While at it, the rear springs also needed to go. There tired springs with helpers bolted to the rear segment.
Be alert to this! The OE 7-1/4 springs, pearchs and U-bolts are narrower @ 2 inch rather than 2-1/2 width of all other MoPar springs. So you can not cheap out here, but you can get away with all new hardware inexpensively.
One tool that made this easy is a cut off wheel. I got mine at Sears. It wacks out the U-bolts in a few min.'s rather than twisting off the rusted bolts.
I went to Springs and things. AKA espo.com. I ordered A-body 340 springs, 1 inch higher than stock, shackles and bushings & new U bolts. I also had on hand new, unused shock plates. The plate that bolts under the spring to which the shock attachs. I got these from Just Suspension awhile back for something else. You'll need new shock plates because the OE ones are to narrow. I did cheap out on shocks though. :cwm10: I just painted what was there.
Heres a few more pictures. I'll need to take more. I had gotten real dirty real fast when I realized I didn't have the Kodak on hand. It wasn't to hard to do. Afternoon out, afternoon in. Though I still need to bleed the brakes. It's done otherwise.
The one thing I got a little burned by was the 7-1/4 rear mounted 5 X 4 wheels and the 8-1/4 has 5X 4-1/2. Lucky me that I had some donated car wheels around back. There a bit huge @ 225/75/15 and may very well not fit if it were not for a little rot. You judge.
I'll have to re-take shots of the rear tires. I took the shots at night and do not approve. See what I meean? Besides, a few shots of the spring plates and such would be nice I think.
Big wheel diference. rear @ 225/75/25 vs. 215/70/14
This side shows the nose buried. Why I don't know. Could be the driveway and unsettled car. The otherside looks better.
(I'll be back)
Big wheel diference. rear @ 225/75/25 vs. 215/70/14
This side shows the nose buried. Why I don't know. Could be the driveway and unsettled car. The otherside looks better.
(I'll be back)
66dartman
Well-Known Member
Rob, you DA MAN! This will help all of us.
And thank you for valve covers priced right.
OK, been busy doing. So, heres the shots of the tires in the well I was talking about. I could really use 4, BBP 14 inch wheels on the very cheap if someones willing to part with them.
These large barge tires barley fit only because I think the rust cleared the way. But she does sit alot better now.
More pictures tomorrow on the bench to bucket swap after I mount the passenger seat in.
(Date for the Captin is 5/24/06 ;) )
These large barge tires barley fit only because I think the rust cleared the way. But she does sit alot better now.
More pictures tomorrow on the bench to bucket swap after I mount the passenger seat in.
(Date for the Captin is 5/24/06 ;) )
Hum, lost the connection after it seemed to be finished. And it's not here as of now. HUm.
Heres a before and after shot. Not the best comparo. But I think you'll get the idea between the stock worn out /6 springs with rear segment helper leaf vs. new espo.com (Springs and things) 6 leaf 340 springs, 1 inch over. (Or higher)
Heres a before and after shot. Not the best comparo. But I think you'll get the idea between the stock worn out /6 springs with rear segment helper leaf vs. new espo.com (Springs and things) 6 leaf 340 springs, 1 inch over. (Or higher)
Well, the seat brackets were swaped. That made one side easy, but I still had to cut and weld another one. I may not be finished. Who knows. It was an experiment. He it is.
Theres allways another day to play with these things.
I gotta get on the Dodge since it's the everyday ride.
Theres allways another day to play with these things.
I gotta get on the Dodge since it's the everyday ride.
WOW! has it been this long since I'ver been able to work on the car! Yikes. Ok, 3 weeks ago I pulled the /6 out and gave it away to a dude that fried a piston. Jeez, you think he hit the mega when I said please, take it away from me. The /6 is going to find a home in a '63 Dart I think it was. Good luck Kay!
In the mean time, I did get, but forgot to take a few shoots of the swap kit from Schumacher. For A $162 to the door, it's a win win in my book. I did get a couple of shots of the modified /6 mount, er pearch. Drivers side.
And a nice pile of caked on grease dirt mix. LOL
Check it out.
In the mean time, I did get, but forgot to take a few shoots of the swap kit from Schumacher. For A $162 to the door, it's a win win in my book. I did get a couple of shots of the modified /6 mount, er pearch. Drivers side.
And a nice pile of caked on grease dirt mix. LOL
Check it out.
After that, I cleaned the engine bay up some. I figured since I had it out and empty, a little scrubbing is in order. I used this stuff called "Gease off", maybe Grezze Off. I'll spell check it later. But this stuff was not a nasty smalling gunk. Pump spray like windex or such and a light scrub and all just washed away.
Be fore warned, over zelous use will take the paint away too.
Check it out. Take note of greasy before and after shots, side to side as I took pictures on cig breaks. Look at left side and right side of pictures.
Be fore warned, over zelous use will take the paint away too.
Check it out. Take note of greasy before and after shots, side to side as I took pictures on cig breaks. Look at left side and right side of pictures.
OK, A couple more.
I have a question, in the first & last shot, theres a little gizmo that has it's wires snipped and looped together. Right by the orange box behind the washer bottle. Bolted on the inner fenders flat surface.
What the heck is that and for?
I have a question, in the first & last shot, theres a little gizmo that has it's wires snipped and looped together. Right by the orange box behind the washer bottle. Bolted on the inner fenders flat surface.
What the heck is that and for?
LOL, your right. But, thats the way I got the car. It is going to get changed out anyway for the disks that will go up front.
I'll be needing help there. There something to do with the master cyl. having to be swaped out?
I'm going from 9 inch drums on all 4 to 11 inch drums in the back and 11.75 disks up front.
I'll be needing help there. There something to do with the master cyl. having to be swaped out?
I'm going from 9 inch drums on all 4 to 11 inch drums in the back and 11.75 disks up front.
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