Rustoration Heeeelp!

-
RustyDusty

RustyDusty

Rabid Cross-eyed Opossum!
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
685
Reaction score
5
Location
Columbus, OH
Hey guys, so my "super clean" duster I just purchased is not quite as clean as I first thought. While clearing out the engine bay to begin what I thought was simple body work I found this nice frickin rust rot on the passenger side of the firewall/cowl area. :wack:disgust

The below photo is a bit deceiving... There are two layers of metal about an inch apart (one visible and one hidden behind that first layer. The outside that you see is rusted completely through, that's just a gaping hole. The rust you see is on the inside of the firewall/cowl area whatever it's called. That little circle you see is where I poked a screwdriver through that layer too!

Any repair ideas? I am not a welder, nor am I going to try and learn on this. Should I just cut the entire rusted area out and have someone weld a patch in? I'm not sure what to do about the inner layer though? Can access to it be gained from dash or fender removal? Also what do I do about the pinch weld that's right there? This seems like it is going to be a difficult fix. Would patching with backing mesh and fibergass bondo be that bad?

292686_233875550064684_1607697033_n.jpg


The outlined rust area in this photo is the approximate extent of the rot...
533983_233875583398014_286947843_n.jpg

:mumum:
 
Ouch! That sir is the outer and inner cowl panel. The hole in the inner will flood your floorboards. I bet the passenger side floor is rotted out too! There is NO easy fix! You will need to find a donor or check with AMD to get replacement sheetmetal parts. You will need to weld or find a friend to do it for you.
 
You will need to remove the heater box to gain access to the inner cowl from the bottom.
 
Hey, Your gonna hate me, but these cars are 40 years old. The only way to do it right is to take it apart, and fix it from behind... Ask me how I know...

Don't be surprised if something else shows up like: Inner 'A' pillars, floor pans, fenders, head light assemblies, bottom of door skins, door jams, rockers, door pillars, quarters, and pretty much anything that constitutes the bottom 6" of the car. Corrosion protection was almost non existent back in the day.

Your gonna have a nice surprise when you take off that cowl, which you need to take the windshield out to gain access to.

Break out the welder. It's part of the gig with old cars until its completely gone through... If cost is a concern, grab a Harbor Freight spot weld cutter and a flux core welder and break your foot off in it's ***. Sheet metal work is origami with metal, its easy.

Learning to do this is lot cheaper in many ways, then paying some guy you don't know as well as yourself to do it for you.

Told You You'd hate me... :D
 
Thankfully the floor board isn't rotted, since I just poked that hole today. It wasn't through until I started smacking it with a screw driver to figure out the extent of it.

I don't mind removing what's needed to gain access. I just don't want to burn holes in my cowl trying to learn to weld!


How much should I remove and replace with donor cowl? just what is eaten?

Also, do you know how water gets in there and eats it out? Both the inner and outer cowl were eaten from the inside.
 
RustyDusty said:
I don't mind removing what's needed to gain access. I just don't want to burn holes in my cowl trying to learn to weld!
Click to expand...

You don't need a donor cowl for that flat piece of metal, just get some 20ga and cut back to fresh metal, and weld it in..

You put a piece of brass or aluminum behind where your welding so it doesn't blow through, which also acts as a heat-sink, tack welds only...
 
You can bet that both sides are bad. Leaves and dirt get throught those slots and clog the drains on both sides of the cowl where the hinges are located. Your heater draws air from the cowl on the passenger side. There is a round deflector welded to the inner cowl to stop water from rushing into the heater box. You can bet that is damaged and will need attention. I would remove the fenders and check the drains. The seam runs below the windshield post on both sides. It is filled with lead that can be melted out with a map torch. There you will find spotwelds. You will need to remove the windshield too to access the spotwelds across the bottom windshield pinchweld. That lip just below your red markings has spotwelds across it. I just use a cutoff wheel and grind through the spotweld until it turns blue and the edges start folding up. That is when you know you are through the first layer of metal. Do this on all the spotwelds and that upper cowl will come off with little effort.

Open the vent under the dash on the passenger side and see if it is full of debris! You can reach through and feel around to find that hole you knocked through with your screwdriver.
 
Thanks Kuudak! This just went from easy to hard in a single evening. Ugh! How is the inner cowl removed? Is it basically the same way?
 
RustyDusty said:
How is the inner cowl removed? Is it basically the same way?
Click to expand...

You can patch that. It is actually the top of the firewall. Like poison said, you can bend and shape metal. Its actually called shrinking and stretching. Its really not that hard. I took a lower patch panel for a Duster 1/4 and formed it to fit my 68 Cuda without to much effort using a leather lead shot bag and a body hammer.

You can do it! If you have any questions just ask here on the forums and many will be obliged to give a helping word. It really is easier than you think! Just take your time. My Cuda has been in the Resto/Mod phase for nearly three years. I have threatened several times to sell it but it hasn't happened yet! LoL!!
 
Thanks guys! Really appreciate the help. I'll get out the die grinder tomorrow and see how far the damage runs, then go from there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top