RV2 AC compressor Rebuild help

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4406Pack$ said:
Where can I get a rebuild kit?
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Ebay if yo can find one. These are really hard to find, from what i learned the kits on ebay that include the piston and 1 of each gasket are for the later years compressor. There are some sellers that sell individual gaskets but getting ahold of a complete rebuild kit is next to impossible. Classic industries has it on there website but it has been out of stock for a while now.

I ended up rebuilding my RV2 compressor and it actually worked well converted to R134, but I ended up deciding to delete my AC. I may list the compressor for sale soon.
 
4406Pack$ said:
Thanks for the advice much appreciated.
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What is the condition of your compressor? Assuming it hasn't gotten moisture in it and the cylinders, crank journals, and valve plates are in good condition, you likely only need to re-seal it. Gasket and shaft seal kits are readily available for the RV2.

If you haven't taken it apart yet, you can easily bench-check it for suction and discharge. A good compressor will create good suction and discharge pressures when plugging the suction or discharge ports and spinning the clutch (the disc on the very front that turns the compressor crankshaft, not the pulley where the belts go on) by hand. The ideal situation is a flange-to-1/4" flare adapter that you can bolt on to the suction side or discharge side and monitor the suction/pressure and bleed-off rate, but in lieu of that the finger-over-the-port method gives a good rough estimate of the compressor's pumping capability.

If the compressor doesn't pump, don't assume a full rebuild is needed. Usually it is the valve plates that are the culprit. Find a set of new, or good used, valve plates (or a good donor compressor), install them with the rubber coated metal shim gaskets, and check again for suction and discharge. Make sure the cylinder walls are still oily when you do this. They don't need to be dripping - just a thin film is plenty. Use mineral oil, not PAG or POE, both for testing and final assembly. PAG and POE (POE=ester) are too hygroscopic (they absorb water from the air) to use as assembly oil. After final assembly, allow any excess MO to drain from the compressor. If you are going to use 134a (meh), wait until you are ready to evacuate the system before adding the POE or PAG oil.

Let us know how it goes!
 
Wow @MaxPF you are the AC master! What a great thread to find, thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge. I will be putting AC back on my 65 273 Dart station wagon that originally had dealer installed AC. There’s a 1976 Valiant /6 with a compressor I’m thinking of grabbing at the local u pull yard now that I’ve seen this thread.
 
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macdrew77 said:
Wow @MaxPF you are the AC master! What a great thread to find, thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge. I will be putting AC back on my 65 273 Dart station wagon that originally had dealer installed AC. There’s a 1976 Valiant /6 with a compressor I’m thinking of grabbing at the local u pull yard now that I’ve seen this thread.
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Make sure it is an RV2 compressor. IIRC, some Chrysler vehicles had dealer-installed AC systems that used a different (York?) compressor. It's easy to tell if its the right one: if it's a "V" configuration, it's an RV2 ;-)
 
MaxPF said:
Make sure it is an RV2 compressor. IIRC, some Chrysler vehicles had dealer-installed AC systems that used a different (York?) compressor. It's easy to tell if its the right one: if it's a "V" configuration, it's an RV2 ;-)
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It’s a /6 so I think it’s a V2 compressor and it has the single groove pulley but I need the double groove to match up to my crankshaft pulley. I might just wait for an RV2 with the right pulley snd mounting brackets to pop up.
 
macdrew77 said:
It’s a /6 so I think it’s a V2 compressor and it has the single groove pulley but I need the double groove to match up to my crankshaft pulley. I might just wait for an RV2 with the right pulley snd mounting brackets to pop up.
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If it's a 1976 and has a V-configuration compressor, then it should be an RV2. The V2 was replaced by the RV2 in the early 60's, IIRC.
 
This thread has been very informative. I have a 1964 Chrysler that I need to rebuild a compressor for. I picked up a core from a yard here in Northern California and unfortunately instead of giving me an RV2, which I specified, they gave me a V2.

My question to the group is can one get a crankshaft, rods and pistons and "make" a RV2 or is the bore different and/or the heads different?

Is the case (block) radiused for a longer length rod on the RV2 versus the V2?

All the guts on this spare look very good. A shame.

Please advise if anyone knows.
 
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SFjames said:
This thread has been very informative. I have a 1964 Chrysler that I need to rebuild a compressor for. I picked up a core from a yard here in Northern California and unfortunately instead of giving me an RV2, which I specified, they gave me a V2. My question to the group is can one get a crankshaft, rods and pistons and "make" a RV2 or is the bore different and/or the heads different? Is the case (block) radiused for a longer length rod on the RV2 versus the V2? All the guts on this spare look very good. A shame. Please advise if anyone knows.
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Soon I will be getting back to the compressor. I did manage to figure out that the block is the same on the V2 and RV2. It is the crankshaft, rods and front bearing housing that are different. So one can play mix and match.

My question is anyone can answer is how the heck do you get that rear bearing (bushing) out of its blind hole in the block?

None of my pullers will get in there.

James
 
I had to take it to my machine shop so they could stick a cutter on the mill and carefully get it out.

Now at home I went to test the bearing to see how much clearance it has on the NOS crankshaft and guess what? It will not go on.

It is a NOS 1984-152. I have two of them and they are the same. The wall difference between the NOS bushings and the one that came out is about 0.010. That is why they will not fit on.

The problem is that one cannot ream the bushings in place due to the "nipple" stick up in the center once the bushing is pressed in.

The other issue is the that 0.010 is before the bushing is pressed in which will of course provide less clearance.

So, my question to those who have rebuilt the compressor blocks is; did you have an issue here? if you did, what did you do to address it?

At this point the only thing I can think of is to drill a hole in a block of wood to very lightly hold the bushing and hone it open to fit the crankshaft (I checked the old one and the NOS one and they are the same diameter wise on that journal.

The other question then is how much crush will I have to suspect and account for once the bushing is in place.

Are we having fun yet! James
 
To answer my own question, I placed the bushing in a lathe with six jaws to simulate it pressed into the housing. Then I turned it until I got about .002 to .003 clearance in the NOS crankshaft. I then pressed it in and it fits well into the crankshaft.

Now I have another problem, I hope someone can advise.

The large bearing for the RV2 versus the small bearing for the V2 comes in two flavors.

One large bearing has a spacer. This one came out of a compressor I took apart. The other large bearing is NOS and has the spacer built into the inner cone.

My problem is that I took it apart without getting a photo of it in place first.

Which way does it press into onto the crankshaft? The built in spacer toward the rear or toward the seal?

Anyone? I can post photos if my description is not good enough.

Thanks, James
 
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