#'s Matching 340 build

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pretty cool! I would like to see it with honed exhaust manifolds, maybe a 440 magnum avs, a belt driven water pump, air filter ....
 
nat I'd go stock
Robb I've never used that cam- Is it like a 340 cam with the LCA squeezed or what?
tks
 
So the customer and I spent the morning installing his distributor and wires along with his Carter AVS. We were pleasantly surprised when the AVS showed only 10HP and 7 TQ loss to the 650 Holley at the peaks--it was 5/5 loss on the averages and even better it seemed to idle with more stability than the Holley. This engine turned out really nice all in all.

Again I thank him for his patience and co-operation, I took far longer than I initially told him due to various reasons, and he never once complained or pushed-not even when it came down to $$$. Thankyou, J.Rob
 
Well worth the wait my man. Thanks for sharing the goods.
Also nice to know that Carter faired so well being a tiny tad smaller in size and not the greatest of air entries into and down the venturi’s. I do love me an AVS though! Always did.
 
my 340 ran better with the carter over a holley 670 as well , thanks for the verification . Geuss mopar knew what they were doing back then
 
Considering the valve spring seat pressure and Clark Kent'esque specs of the cam I figured a total of 15mins of break in were all that was needed. I put it through 3 x 5 mins break in cycles of 1800-2400 rpm under load. In between the 5 minute cycles was 10 minutes of cool down and inspection. I'm VERY paranoid when it comes to the break in period especially with a flat tappet cam and todays sub par manufacturing standards. Everything looked excellent during the break in with only a small valve cover leak onto the oil filter which took a couple turns of the vc bolt to cure. Who doesn't love the easy fixes?

I was able to perform 4 prelim pulls with the 4th up to 5800 rpm. Any guesses? J.Rob
Can I ask why u didn’t just do a 15 minute run in. We were taught to run them in for at least 20-30 minutes. Thanks. Kim
 
No pulls with the exhaust manifolds? That’s what I was looking forward to lol!

Not when the manifolds are a little over 6 hrs away. Probably cost 20-25hp--the engine just doesn't consume much air--well under 500 cfm @ 5800rpm. J.Rob
 
I’m just catching up on this thread but a guy who charges $90 around here will starve and close. To get a crank done well here (and I know the best guy around here) is a $300 proposition. That’s not stroke corrected and indexed... that’s cleaned, nagged, turned, and polished. Nothing fancy.

In regard to PRHs comments on streetable power- I’m with him. I consider how often the engine will be in an rpm range for a street car with mild gearing. The car willidle and be under 4K for the vast, VAST majority of its life do power over 5k in not a concern. I think this gets way over-thought by many these days.
If a guy around here wanted 300 to grind a crankshaft, without indexing, stroke correction etc.. he would starve.

There is a TON of work around here, there are over 14 dealerships alone in a 8 mile radius, plus the tracks are within an hr away, 3 or 4. They are short on machinists, and the work is piling up. You have what over there again? People are searching for a good machine shop near you saying there almost no one left... Too many are trying to sell a "rounder" wheel...and pay for their new machine. It's all good. Even 200 is fair compared to the 300 you mentioned.no wonder a lot of guys can't stay in the hobby when the shops are killing the hobby.
 
I think it’s just this area. CT is very expensive to live. So shop rent or mortgage, utilities, environmental compliance, every kind of insurance you can think of, then the equipment overhead... nobody around here is getting rich machining, and they’ve got waiting lists. I’ve got three shorts and two sets of heads that I’ve prepaid 75% for in cash (won’t tell how much that actually is... lol) and he’s had them since March.
 
If a guy around here wanted 300 to grind a crankshaft, without indexing, stroke correction etc.. he would starve.

There is a TON of work around here, there are over 14 dealerships alone in a 8 mile radius, plus the tracks are within an hr away, 3 or 4. They are short on machinists, and the work is piling up. You have what over there again? People are searching for a good machine shop near you saying there almost no one left... Too many are trying to sell a "rounder" wheel...and pay for their new machine. It's all good. Even 200 is fair compared to the 300 you mentioned.no wonder a lot of guys can't stay in the hobby when the shops are killing the hobby.

Sounds like you need to hit the lotto and open a sheen shop.
 
Fist of work is always a weird one to predict or worse yet, assume. The area where you live has everything to do with it.

Here’s food for thought (and probably choke on.)
Next door to me, they pay 14K a year in taxes. Less than half an acre, 3 bed room.
 
"Hit the lotto" is the key.
Then it would be passion and not bottom line.

That’s exactly it. Bottom line everywhere is different, and here it’s driving decent shops out. They do a lot of work and have good receipts, they just don’t make much at it.
 
That’s exactly it. Bottom line everywhere is different, and here it’s driving decent shops out. They do a lot of work and have good receipts, they just don’t make much at it.
Funny thing about machines too is they only get cheaper by the amount of wear..where as other types of tools/tooling can be found cheaper after a certain point. They have to be worn out or outdated by 45 years to become part of a the average well educated hot rodders 'garage/workshop'.
 
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Funny thing about machines too is they only get cheaper by the amount of wear..where as other types of tools/too long can be found cheaper after a certain point. They have to be worn out or outdated by 45 years to become part of a the average well educated hot rodders 'garage/workshop'.

...and you can do a lot with older machines......you just have to know "which ones" to look for.
 
My TCM was an ‘82.. it’s going to a small start up shop in MA.
 
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