sand blasting

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Codybones

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Morning everyone
I'm not sure if this is the correct place for this question so i apologize upfront, what i'm wondering about is sand blasting the underside of my 72 Dart. Have any of you done this at your place by just jacking the car up and blocking it good then blast it your self with a small sand blaster?
 
See if you can rent a rotisserie? That way you can rotate and not have to lay on your back. Don't forget the ppe. Be organized cuz bare metal will flash rust asap.
 
Do not use sand use crushed glass . Smoother finish and not as much heat on the panels. Try both at night and see the difference. Not Glass beads, Crushed Glass. I spread a rubber truck tarp, Lift the ends so it gathers in the middle shovel it up and then sift and reuse the material. Always trying to save on consumables. Heavy plastic and a lot of duct tape. Install old parts in the holes to seal the car and blast away
 
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Thank you, thats exactly what I had in mind, I don't plan to pull the quarters off but the rest looks like what i was thinking. How long did it take you to blast the whole underside of the car?
 
What I do is pretty similar to what @Oldmanmopar outlined above- only difference is that I put the shell up on four 55 gallon drums so I have extra height for my old bones to get under there! It's easy enough to shift the barrels around as you blast so you don't end up with any missed spots.
 
Codybones said:
How do you lift your vehicle? I like the room I have old bones myself
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I don't have a forklift like some guys around here ( :) ) but with a roller or a shell it's pretty easy to do with a cherry picker (engine hoist). You might have to do it in stages, just so the angle doesn't get too crazy sitting on barrels as the other end goes up.
 
I used my cherry picker and a lifting strap around the radiator support on my Duster and got it as high as I could. Rear axle was out of the car and I had it in 24” Dollie’s mounted to the front spring mounts. My sandblast guy got it quite well from the sides without having to get underneath it, for obvious safety reasons. It
 
I hired a mobile blasting guy for my Duster and he used the crushed glass on it. I think it cost me around $600 total and the guy did an excellent job! That said I wasn't blasting the entire car just the inside and the bottom of it as I wanted to keep the original patina paint. It helps that he was a car guy himself so he was extra thorough. Once the guy was done blasting he also used his industrial compressor to help blow out the remaining media. After he left I flipped the car back and forth on the rotisserie cleaning more media out of it with my compressor and leaf blower. Then I rolled it back in the garage, prepped it and shot epoxy primer on the bare metal sealing it before it could rust. The biggest PITA was cleaning up all the media from the drive way. Thankfully I have good understanding neighbors!

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I have done similar home blasting, but I built a PVC and plastic sheeting cover over car to better contain/reuse media.
 
I did the bottom of my volare on a home made rotisserie with a pressure pot and black beauty coal slag.i didn't do the inside floor pans or the outside of the body. I don't think I would.
I have been talking to a couple of dustless sandblast guys about doing my d250. They're all shut down for the winter but the price in hearing definitely seems worth it. We will see. I did the volare outside on a concrete drive
 
str12-340 said:
I think I'll stick with a heat gun for undercoat and wire attachments on an angle grinder...
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I did mine this way for most of it (underneath) although I did use a sand blaster for some areas.

A few things to note a) sand (i used crushed glass) and dust will get every where even with plastic sheeting b) you need a big compressor (5hp min) and a pot blaster that actually works. c) you will use 100s of pounds of media

I recommend using a combination of wire wheel, blasting, chemical stripper and abrasive disc (3M Clean and Strip XT) for doing a car. If I wasn't so cheap I would send it out and get it done or get it chemically stripped but no one around here does it anyway.
 
What is the CFM @ 90 rating on your compressor?
 
YY1 said:
What is the CFM @ 90 rating on your compressor?
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You talking to me? I'd have to check but I think it's something like 21cfm at 90, and 17 at 175.
I have an emglo, 5hp 80 gallon with a 4 cylinder compressor unit. Now known as "jenny" as in the old original "steam Jenny" company. My particular unit is about a 1987.
If looking to buy I never knew anyone who said they wished they had a smaller one but many who have wished they had a bigger one.
I actually have a couple of compressors. My other one is an old 8hp cast iron Briggs powered sold by Binks but the compressor itself is a Quincy. That one's about a 1972ish and sat more than it ever got used.
 
I use phosphorous on bare metal, using a universal plastic spray bottle and "metal prep" from Home Depot. It is about $20 a gallon of concentrate (has a blue tint). Mix half and half with water to help remove rust, weaker to just stop it until you can prime. I let it dry, then scuff rather than remove it.
 
I have some, have to remember that once I get into my truck. As I remember you have to remove it before you prime ?
 
Yes, but I just scuff and shoot rather than wash it off. I've not had any finish issues.
 
If nobody else mentioned it.
Blast on an angle not straightforward.
Helps to keep the sheet metal from heating and warping.
 
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