Sb/bb?

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Who built it, how many miles or how much use on it? How much do you want for it? What are the specs? How about pix?
 
Its an FBO engine. Heads are O's 1970 only. Stainless valves, steel guides, hardened seats. Lightly ported and polished C chambers. Crane ductile iron adjustables, 1.5/1.6. Smith Bros push rods. Racer Brown SSH 44 Hyd cam. 242@50 547 lift I believe. Zero deck forged Diamond pistons, 9.5. 560 grams.
Rods were bushed for exact length. 3.58 cast crank. ARP bolts, all Cometic gaskets. The head gaskets are reusable. Melling HV pump, Milodon 8 qt pan.
Distributor phased ny FBO Heli core wires. Air Gap, Mighty Demon 650 tuned and adjusted by Big Daddy himself.

Built in June 05, fried a new 500 hp Ram clutch in July 06. Still in there. My car has no wipers, no heater, no rain. I live in Oregon. Not alot of miles on it. It ran 12.80's spinning the BFG drag radials 325-50-15 @ 16 psi, completelty unloading the rear springs. When I hit second it did it again! 2.0 60 ft. shifting at 58/5900. 4.10 gears.

Not sure what its worth. How much to build it? You tell me. My car is a 383 original. Id wanna go in that direction. So I would sell the whole thing minus starter, alt, air filter, Its a hard runner. I saw a guy post dyno #s of 458 with a similiar set up less 30 cubes mine has.
 
For playin' around and having fun on the street, I say BB all the way! Nothing like a A-body with a 500 inch BB to raise the hair on your neck! I'm going low deck 451 stroker in mine.
 
Nice sounding motors. I have a question though about SB's.... Like I said, most of my knowledge, performance wise, is in BB's, so... What would you say are the advantages and disadvantages between the 318, 340, 360? I would say one disadvantage about the 340 is the rareity, where as the 318 & 360 blocks can be obtained fairly easily, heck they were made for so long, so.... Hince why I can get a 360 motor for $125.

And to stir things up a bit, and get a wide range of opinions, what would you say are the advantages/disadvantages of SB -vs- BB? And same question but in these cars? I'm interested in hearing what everyone has to say about this, who's first? LOL.
 
Not to hard to make a A body run low 12's with a 340/360. How much faster does a guy wanna go for a street car? Mine isnt that hard on gas if I stay off it. BB sucks it down all the time. You go BB you need all the better, stronger stuff... More $'s to go how fast? As a wise Man still says,,

What's the speed of your wallet?

Sure you can build a 500 inch engine, you need the 500 inch tranny, Dana, frame, fuel system, shall I go on, or is the picture getting clear?

I think alot of us who are building a car really need to be honest and realistic about what we want our car to do. I have seen a handful of 10 sec street cars and not alot of 11's.

Stepping off the box.
 
I guess I'll chime in by saying "there's no replacement for displacement.

Terry :burnout:

P6020033 (Small).JPG


P9100004 (Custom).JPG
 
hotrodder said:
Nice sounding motors. I have a question though about SB's.... Like I said, most of my knowledge, performance wise, is in BB's, so... What would you say are the advantages and disadvantages between the 318, 340, 360? I would say one disadvantage about the 340 is the rareity, where as the 318 & 360 blocks can be obtained fairly easily, heck they were made for so long, so.... Hince why I can get a 360 motor for $125.

And to stir things up a bit, and get a wide range of opinions, what would you say are the advantages/disadvantages of SB -vs- BB? And same question but in these cars? I'm interested in hearing what everyone has to say about this, who's first? LOL.
Click to expand...

The 360's are all over, used in Trucks and many larger cars since mid 70s. Only real disadvantage was the larger crank size, but it is stronger, well can be, but more of a torque motor than a high RPM motor. Also the 340 with the larger bore has less valve shouding than the 318 and even the 360, so it can flow a little better.

Anyway if you are not spending a ton of $$s get a 360, decnt heads maybe stroke it, or if you dont mind the work on the frame, steering components etc get a 440 they are pretty cheap too! Either way the car will screem! Enjoy
 
70Barracuda said:
Terry,
Nice DEmon! I love those. How fast is it? What engine is that?
Click to expand...

Thanks much, Haven't had it to the strip since getting the sticky tires for it but I'm guessing mid 13's (we're at 3500 ft elevation here). It's a 70 383 with ported heads, 750 DP'r, single plane intake etc. It pulls really hard and will set you back in your seat but best of all is the rumble of a lumpy big block coming out the pipes.

Terry:burnout:
 
On small blocks;

The 318 is cheap and everywhere, but cubicly challenged. You'll have to think slightly differently on how it works best with what parts. There not a problem in making horse power, just how you do it is not the same as the larger engines. Good overall choice.

340, pay for the rarity of it. Can get bigger (Be biggest I should say) when stroked due to the largest bore.

360, Another dime a dozen like a 318. But the advantage is the longer stroke. For the price, which should be right about if not the same as a 318 out of a junk yrad, your gaining 42 cubes off the bat and a bit of torque.

With the larger stroke, you'll have more torque in the lower RPM range and peak HP comes a bit sooner. It can be stroked to within a few inchs of a 340.

This is the base as to which (I think) is a good perspective to look at the S/B engines to start with.

S/B vs. B/B is another can of worms. The S/B is lighter, easier to work on and slightly cheaper. Now flip it for the big block. LOL

Power wise, it's moving it's own weight, so that makes a weight issue a reason to go for one. Unless your going to town on a B/B where weight is not an issue.
Handling wise, the big block can become preety light, and if you go that route, it shouldn't pose a huge obsticle (sp) to get around.

I think upgradeing parts to handle a big block is a near moot point if the small block is also up'ed in power to a serious level. All the same things will need to be upgraded.
If left in a mello state (The S/B) you can be ahead of the game. ($$$)

To each there own, decisions decsions decsions....
 
Well, sort of how it is now.
That's the old tired 440. 11-1 comp, .509 cam.
It now has a 1966 446cid engine in it now. 11-1 comp, .590 solid cam.
They pretty much look the same.
 
I just sent some pic's to a member here for resizing, hopefully soon there will be pic's of the car up. It's not a whole lot to look at, but.... It's a start. Well, someone started on it, and apparently quickly gave up.......:sad3: Anyway, one day, :prayer:.
 
Here are some links that I'm considering on the SB issue of things:
318: http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-138-13-mopar-318cid-to-390cid-forged-piston-stroker-kit.aspx

340: http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-139-13-mopar-340cid-to-392cid-stroker-kit.aspx

360: http://www.speedomotive.com/p-140-mopar-360cid-to-408cid-stroker-kit.aspx#KitInPostBack

The three kit's look to be the same kit, but tailored to the blocks spec's... IE different bore sizes... And what ever else. For the BB's, why put in a stroker kit in such a light car?
 
hjoyrodder,
Okay you buy a $125.00 360 and buy one of those kits. How much do you estimate your engine will cost when its all done? Carb to pan, distributor to plugs. A complete running engine.

Anybody?

Not sure myself.
 
Lots of variables to take into consideration,forged internals?cast crank hyper pistons,H beams,I beams ,recon stock beams?studs or bolts? studs add in what line honing costs, aftermarket heads, redone stock heads? On the cheap you could prolly do a nice one for around 3 or 4k on the forged side prolly 6 or 7K with aftermarket heads added in.also depends on how much of the work you do yourself.
 
ace26 said:
Lots of variables to take into consideration,forged internals?cast crank hyper pistons,H beams,I beams ,recon stock beams?studs or bolts? studs add in what line honing costs, aftermarket heads, redone stock heads? On the cheap you could prolly do a nice one for around 3 or 4k on the forged side prolly 6 or 7K with aftermarket heads added in.also depends on how much of the work you do yourself.
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I think I'm probably gonna go ahead and go with the 360 Stroker, but still am not 100%... I've been thinking about clearances here lately, and I remember how mad I got working on some of these new cars out now..... Jeeze :sad3:. But as far as the motor, that kit includes:
HIGH NODULAR 4.000" STROKER CRANKSHAFT
FORGED 4340 6.123" H BEAM CONNECTING RODS
FORGED DISH TOP PISTONS
NEW MOLY RING SET
CLEVITE ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS

And the optional stuff that I will probably add is:
LABOR TO BALANCE THIS KIT,
NEW FLEXPLATE
NEW HARMONIC DAMPER

This one I'm not sure about yet, so:
TOTAL SEAL TS-1 RING SET

And, of course, one of these, but, not sure which yet until I have block:
+.030 OVERSIZE +.040 OVERSIZE +.060 OVERSIZE

So....... As far as some of the other stuff, I plan on running main studs, this is a stroker after all, lol, as far as the line hone, I'd want to do that anyway with a new crank. I'm fairly sure I can get most of the machine work done for free. The head work will depend on what heads I can get my hands on, if I can't get lucky in finding a really nice set worth building, then I'll get a set aftermarket, and in that case, will consider aluminum. I will probbaly run valve cover studs, but the rest of the motor will be bolts, so, that will save some money. So, there's a little more of what I'm looking towards. Bring on the questions/comments.
 
Just as an update, I've decided to get that 440 from the guy who I got my Charger from, build it into a stroker and throw it in the Charger instead of the supposed to be a 383 and ended up being a 361..... As for the 361 it's up for sale, but if it doesn't sale, then I'll rebuild it, do a couple of performance touches to it, and I guess throw it in the Duster.....:tard:
 
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