ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
So a standard port for the small block, and a max wedge port for the big block does not seem fair. Hypothetically
SB vs BB who wins?
- Thread starter Mean416
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I think it's plenty fair considering the small block gets "whatever" stroke is allowed.
Back to our regularly schedules discussion in which the OP started.
The reason a big block wins over any small block, like I stated before is bore size. In a Normally Aspirated engine the bigger bore wins because you can run bigger valves.
There is no boost to force air in and out of an NA engine, so to make more power you put larger intake valves in them.
A NHRA 500" Pro Stock engine uses north of a 4.700" bore and a 2.500" intake valve. A NHRA Pro Stock motorcycle has a 5.25" bore and runs a 2.700" intake valve.
Big bore, big intake valve is the key to NA horsepower. Now obviously you need a port to compliment the valve size, but you get the point.
Tom
The reason a big block wins over any small block, like I stated before is bore size. In a Normally Aspirated engine the bigger bore wins because you can run bigger valves.
There is no boost to force air in and out of an NA engine, so to make more power you put larger intake valves in them.
A NHRA 500" Pro Stock engine uses north of a 4.700" bore and a 2.500" intake valve. A NHRA Pro Stock motorcycle has a 5.25" bore and runs a 2.700" intake valve.
Big bore, big intake valve is the key to NA horsepower. Now obviously you need a port to compliment the valve size, but you get the point.
Tom
Ok can I ask a relatively easy request. How about a few of our members post up their big block combos, weight, picture of an ET slip, and what track they raced at. Several of use small block guys have done exactly this so please step forward. I’m anxiously waiting. Lol.
How's that not fair those are the ootb heads most people would buy for each platform.
Or for a cheaper build you could say speedmaster vs stealth.
And here I thought this exercise was hypothetical.
Why should it be. The small block guys have walked the walk. I know of some fast big blocks but they don’t fit the rules. Don’t any of you budget big block guys have any ammo.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Best shelf street heads, verses best shelf street heads. I agree, doesn't seem fair. Lots more flow, bigger valves, bigger bore. Maybe that equals bigger power?
The question was asked how you'd build one. Not if you had one. At least that was my interpretation.
But I see big block examples every week at the track and I’m telling you the big blocks are a big disappointment
Then I think they're doin it wrong.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
33IMP
Well-Known Member
The eight second big block guys are on the B side.
So no fast big block A body cars
33IMP
Well-Known Member
You were in the nines 40 years ago with a self-professed junk big block. Why do you think it's not being done today?
Fastest local a-body I know of is a small block...... but he's got more in his car than I have in my house.
Mainly because with all the Mopars in Ohio and Pa most of them are a disappointment till you get into aluminum blocks, 4.250 plus stroke, cnc 440-1 Indy heads, etc.
Small blocks just fit better.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
maybe theres not many stock stroke B or RB blocks in A bodys????
Yes they do. That’s why I suggest small blocks for guys that want to run 9.50’s or slower. Things get a little tight in there.
You have a dyno? What brand?
same!!
Great thread to read between Christmas and new YEAR!
I'm not sure if it mentioned during the thread, is the poor lifter angle of a stock smallblock?
Availability is a governing factor in any build.
But if you is going serious HP then a 400-230 block is the best!
Then there is the 'lower' RPM argument for a Bigblock.
Using lots of RPM on a regular basis will always kill any engine!
Lets take the Nascar's and the 3-4 hours of high rpm's.
When the 305 was built in 1971 by KB it would spin at nearly 10,000!
How many 'old school' V8 engines would take that for hours on end?
A heavier, but free flowing Bigblock will always win out I bet...
My avatar car had a 547ci '400' Mopar blocked N/A engine that made 1000hp (8.3 @ 175).
Is there any smallblocks N/A that can be made to do that?
Restricting Mopar's best block to 400 cubes is such a waste!
I found my 400-230 block in a yard in Arizona!
I'm not sure if it mentioned during the thread, is the poor lifter angle of a stock smallblock?
Availability is a governing factor in any build.
But if you is going serious HP then a 400-230 block is the best!
Then there is the 'lower' RPM argument for a Bigblock.
Using lots of RPM on a regular basis will always kill any engine!
Lets take the Nascar's and the 3-4 hours of high rpm's.
When the 305 was built in 1971 by KB it would spin at nearly 10,000!
How many 'old school' V8 engines would take that for hours on end?
A heavier, but free flowing Bigblock will always win out I bet...
My avatar car had a 547ci '400' Mopar blocked N/A engine that made 1000hp (8.3 @ 175).
Is there any smallblocks N/A that can be made to do that?
Restricting Mopar's best block to 400 cubes is such a waste!
I found my 400-230 block in a yard in Arizona!
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Great thread to read between Christmas and new YEAR!
I'm not sure if it mentioned during the thread, is the poor lifter angle of a stock smallblock?
Availability is a governing factor in any build.
But if you is going serious HP then a 400-230 block is the best!
Then there is the 'lower' RPM argument for a Bigblock.
Using lots of RPM on a regular basis will always kill any engine!
Lets take the Nascar's and the 3-4 hours of high rpm's.
When the 305 was built in 1971 by KB it would spin at nearly 10,000!
How many 'old school' V8 engines would take that for hours on end?
A heavier, but free flowing Bigblock will always win out I bet...
My avatar car had a 547ci '400' Mopar blocked N/A engine that made 1000hp (8.3 @ 175).
Is there any smallblocks N/A that can be made to do that?
Restricting Mopar's best block to 400 cubes is such a waste!
I found my 400-230 block in a yard in Arizona!
View attachment 1716183998
Don’t be bashful. Post up engine build, weight, and where times were ran. I know there are a few good ones out there so let’s hear about it.
When sticking close to stock.... (and NOT stock eliminator.. 
) meaning cast heads, stock stroke, basically street cars that are N/A, the only cars I really see going in the 10's, mid 10's, are 440's. Watched a Dart with a cast head 440, stock pistons, crank, yadddy yadddy, go 10.50's with 3.55's. Good solid lift cam, single plane and a 850 on top. Sorry, I just don't see a 340 or 360 turning the same numbers with cast heads, stock pistons, and 3.55's. And I love small blocks.
) meaning cast heads, stock stroke, basically street cars that are N/A, the only cars I really see going in the 10's, mid 10's, are 440's. Watched a Dart with a cast head 440, stock pistons, crank, yadddy yadddy, go 10.50's with 3.55's. Good solid lift cam, single plane and a 850 on top. Sorry, I just don't see a 340 or 360 turning the same numbers with cast heads, stock pistons, and 3.55's. And I love small blocks.When it comes down to it, I like the ease of working on the car... an "A" body is easier to work on if it has a small block (or /6... even easier). A "B" body is WAY easier if it had a small block, but I would prefer that it had a big block. Just my opinion and preference.
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