do not like wd 40 for hat as it imbeds small particles rather than float them
atf hone oil hat else?
I’m an ATF type of guy myself. I coat my bores down with it as soon as I’m done washing a block and several times during a build.
do not like wd 40 for hat as it imbeds small particles rather than float them
atf hone oil hat else?
Thank you sir, I dug out the other engine so I can start on it. Hopefully this one will get me to the spring summer cruises until I get the other mtr ready. Will just freshen up that mtr and start looking at better heads than the X that I have. I will do all cleaning on it and find another shop if I need work done. Going to invest in some good mics and gauges and any specialty tools I need, cam bearing, cam handle, ring grinder etc. Torque wrench was recently calibrated. Hone myself or send out, no ring ridge on mtr. Thanks again John for taking the time to help.Hey all I do is try to help. Is it right? Heck no!!! Will it last??? Probably long enough to finish up your other engine and hopefully get you through the summer. We have all done things we shouldn’t do but that’s part of the game. Be safe and have fun.
I know your motor is pretty fresh but you might want to throw a quart of Rislone in it before the next change. Might help keep any contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil change rather than settle. Won't hurt.
So is the whole idea to run a thin liquid then drain. I have 60 psi at idle so what about a 0W20. I have paint filters. I will run it then pull out a little and see if it can filter the stuff.I’ve never done anything like you are trying to do but just a thought as oil gets expensive very quick. What if you would drain your oil after running it for awhile and run it through a paint filter so you could use the same oil to flush it again. Filters are cheap especially if the napa sale is still going on. I think the 1515 napa Gold was around 3.00 each. Be careful with the kerosene as my buddy spun a bearing using to much. You are in uncharted water for me but just throwing some ideas out there.
If you insist on the flush, I have flushed with diesel but not running. I am NOT recommending you use diesel or kerosene running. I really think you should just use it as a 'wash': pour it through, and let it run right out, to try to get out any stuff lying in the heads, and pan.The Amsoil is for deposits, not what I want. I have some diesel here for my truck, how much do I add and how long do I run it just to get warm then dump it. Do I need to change filter before the next flush, then do it again. The material I am sure is the copper left over from the previous disaster. Analyzed is a good idea also. a company. What about ATF? I contacted Rislone to see if they had any ideas?
If you insist on the flush, I have flushed with diesel but not running. I am NOT recommending you use diesel or kerosene running. I really think you should just use it as a 'wash': pour it through, and let it run right out, to try to get out any stuff lying in the heads, and pan.
If you want to go hard-core with this: I actually put a full load of diesel in an engine that had coolant in the oil, and them primed the engine with diesel, while slowly turning the engine over and over by hand, to get it to go everywhere. Drained and repeated with diesel. I also pulled the lifter one at a time while doing this, starting at the one closest to the pump, and also tapped the lifters to get the old oil and junk/coolant out of each one. Then drained the 2nd diesel load, put in cheapo Walmart thin oil, and then re-primed for a while, while slow turning. Drained and primed and turned again, with a new batch of cheapo oil. Then drained that 2nd batch of thin cheapo oil, and put in a 10W30 Walmart oil, reprimed, then idled 'til it was warmed up, then drained and put in another load of cheapo oil, ran and changed that oil after 10 miles, and finally put in the oil I wanted. IMHO, oil is suuuuuper cheap compared to the time and expense of this engine work. (BTW, this process worked really good to get the coolant out, which had gone everywhere.... but then I found a massive head crack LOL.)
But I am really questioning if this is necessary in your case.
927 ppm is not adequate. You need to shoot for up around 1200-1300 ppm, IMHO. That was where the ZDDP levels were before the EPA mandated drop in ZDDP levels that caused the problems to appear. Treating to get 927 ppm up to the 1200-1300 ppm range is takes almost as much additive as getting 800 PPM up to that range.
Been through the numbers..... you need 1/2 a container of Rislone Oil Additive (at it's ZDDP concentrations) to get 5 qts of 800 ppm oil up to, or a bit over, 1300 ppm. It's been discussed before.
Moly is certainly no substitute for ZDDP. IDK on boron.....
I am synthetic junkie, LOL, and have run over 1M miles with it on various engines, race and street, starting back in 1976. So no problems with that for me. I have not used any synthetic blends.
The numbers worked out only apply for 1/2 bottle of the Rislone Oil Additive, as they publish thier ZDDP concentration levels. IDK the concentrations of the Lucas additive so this rate of treatment cannot be used for the Lucas product.
How many oil changes does it take to equal the effort you have already expended? You can get a lot done in a few hours time. Cheap insurance to take your time...
The numbers worked out only apply for 1/2 bottle of the Rislone Oil Additive, as they publish thier ZDDP concentration levels. IDK the concentrations of the Lucas additive so this rate of treatment cannot be used for the Lucas product.
How many oil changes does it take to equal the effort you have already expended? You can get a lot done in a few hours time. Cheap insurance to take your time...